P1000 Weird wiring issue

[Melvin35]

So I just added two lights to my already set up and running 4 gang rocker panel. In the 4 hour fight of me trying to fit my arm in the gap, I somehow detached my winch trigger wire for the switch. I have it now wired together with my key on harness in the relay that controls all my key on 2nd battery accessories.

Mind you the winch was working fine like 3 days ago. So now I turn it over fine, and my rocker panel takes like 45 seconds to get lit up, and on top of that my winch is doing some weird stuff. So I’ll hit the dash button to let out the winch, the solenoid will click, the winch will move maybe an inch, and stop, and my toggle switch panel that’s not even wired with the winch (I have a separate switch for the winch) completely turns off. It’ll stay off for like 15 seconds then like click on.

My batteries reading 14.2 when it’s running so I don’t think it’s a battery issue. I’m just scratching my head on this one. Like it’s almost like the winch is pulling the power from everything rather than just the battery. The winch is wired directly to my 2nd battery. Solenoid is getting all 12v.

So I’m wondering if me hitting the switch is screwing with that key on relay and basically closing/ opening the gate for the power.

 

[Admin]

 

[Remington]

Ive been there before with the tight space for your switches. Its a complete whore at times.
Sounds to me like you knocked off or loosened a ground that not making. I know it sucks, but either way, I would take that panel apart again and go through the whole process one by one and Ill bet you'll find the issue.
But do yourself a favor and walk away for an hr, have a beer or beverage of your choice, then go back and fart around with it. Need to have a clear head for this.

 

[Melvin35]

Ive been there before with the tight space for your switches. Its a complete whore at times.
Sounds to me like you knocked off or loosened a ground that not making. I know it sucks, but either way, I would take that panel apart again and go through the whole process one by one and Ill bet you'll find the issue.
But do yourself a favor and walk away for an hr, have a beer or beverage of your choice, then go back and fart around with it. Need to have a clear head for this.

I have been away. I literally told my wife the same thing. I’m like all I wanted to do was install a damn cargo light to help both of us and this is what I get. The big issue is the buddy that helped me installed this convinced me riveting on the switch panel was better than push pins. Wish I didn’t listen to him

 

[JenElio]

I have been away. I literally told my wife the same thing. I’m like all I wanted to do was install a damn cargo light to help both of us and this is what I get. The big issue is the buddy that helped me installed this convinced me riveting on the switch panel was better than push pins. Wish I didn’t listen to him

I agree with what Remi said, go back and go through it all once over, it'll be a simple thing but a pain in the ass for sure. And you can always drill out the rivets and use push pins (way better for future services)

Good luck🤞 keep us posted

 

[Remington]

you can always drill out the rivets and use push pins (way better for future services)

I was gonna say the same thing!
Thanks for suggesting that Jennay😉

 

[Melvin35]

I agree with what Remi said, go back and go through it all once over, it'll be a simple thing but a pain in the ass for sure. And you can always drill out the rivets and use push pins (way better for future services)

Good luck🤞 keep us posted

Yeah I'm going to do that tomorrow.

 

[Melvin35]

So as of right now, I did fond that the power wire to my fuse block came loose, so I fixed that. But I was sitting there like, "I know my dash voltmeter is reading 14, but I'm gonna throw the multimeter on it.

My accessory battery was at 4v lmao. So its on the charger, I wonder if I just drained it from screwing with it. We shall see, this would explain basically everything.

edit: I guess I never thought about that volt meter. Not really convenient if its only reading the charging voltage vs the actual voltage. I wonder if I can run the blue wire to the spare battery rather than the isolator post.

 

[Hondasxs]

Drill out those rivets and use black screws or the honda pop rivets.
I cant stress enough to people... As soon as you rivet that panel on, you will need it back off. Guaranteed.
Mine is off at least once a month.

 

[CID]

So as of right now, I did fond that the power wire to my fuse block came loose, so I fixed that. But I was sitting there like, "I know my dash voltmeter is reading 14, but I'm gonna throw the multimeter on it.

My accessory battery was at 4v lmao. So its on the charger, I wonder if I just drained it from screwing with it. We shall see, this would explain basically everything.

edit: I guess I never thought about that volt meter. Not really convenient if its only reading the charging voltage vs the actual voltage. I wonder if I can run the blue wire to the spare battery rather than the isolator post.

It's not unheard of for the dual VMs to poop the bed.

 

[Remington]

edit: I guess I never thought about that volt meter. Not really convenient if its only reading the charging voltage vs the actual voltage. I wonder if I can run the blue wire to the spare battery rather than the isolator post.

You need a dual volt meeter. One for the main and one for the second.
Always use Dash VM’s as a grain of salt.
When you need to check actual voltage ALWAYS use a load tester not a meeter to test a battery

 

[Plowboy1466]

Wait, you guys don't enjoy cramming your hands under the front side of the dash and and wondering where all the blood came from?? Yeah, mine works, but l really need to rewire it.....

 

[Melvin35]

You need a dual volt meeter. One for the main and one for the second.
Always use Dash VM’s as a grain of salt.
When you need to check actual voltage ALWAYS use a load tester not a meeter to test a battery

I have the dual from the kit from this site

 

[Melvin35]

Drill out those rivets and use black screws or the honda pop rivets.
I cant stress enough to people... As soon as you rivet that panel on, you will need it back off. Guaranteed.
Mine is off at least once a month.

yeah Ill drill them out and throw the plastic rivets in there

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

edit: I guess I never thought about that volt meter. Not really convenient if its only reading the charging voltage vs the actual voltage. I wonder if I can run the blue wire to the spare battery rather than the isolator post.

I have the dual from the kit from this site

.
Add a ground relay with a push button and then you can check your batteries anytime, even with the key off.

P1000 - Dual volt meter with Honda harness on back of 12v keyed plug

I read threads but not quite finding answer. I have the Hondasxs wiring harness to tap into the back of the 12v cigarette lighter power. I have a dual meter with 3 blades on back. Battery 1 is off my true to positive blade, battery 2 is off my “true” to the middle blade and the red from the...

hondasxs.com

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Have a good day

 

[Melvin35]

.
Add a ground relay with a push button and then you can check your batteries anytime, even with the key off.

P1000 - Dual volt meter with Honda harness on back of 12v keyed plug

I read threads but not quite finding answer. I have the Hondasxs wiring harness to tap into the back of the 12v cigarette lighter power. I have a dual meter with 3 blades on back. Battery 1 is off my true to positive blade, battery 2 is off my “true” to the middle blade and the red from the...

hondasxs.com

.
Have a good day

That’s interesting, thanks

 

[bumperm]

It can be even simpler, add a momentary (normally open) push button and wire one terminal to ground, the other to the negative terminal of the dual voltmeter. That'll do it, no need to add another relay.

BTW, if your aux battery was at 4 volts, and for any length of time, it's probably on its death bed or nearly so. As a general rule, you want to avoid discharging lead acid batteries below 50% (that's 12.3 volts). But for sure you don't want to leave it discharged for any length of time as the plates will start sulphating and that reduces battery capacity. You might be able to charge it back up, but it will have lost some capacity permanently in going through that ordeal.