P1000 Homemade Door Bushings

[Cuoutdoors]

Sorry I've been swamped with work I'll get some made up this weekend.

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[Admin]

 

[301]

Sorry I've been swamped with work I'll get some made up this weekend.

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Thanks for the update.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

+1

Any updates yet?
Thanks.

Looking forward to seeing the modification!!

Updates coming, sorry for the wait I've been swamped.

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[Cuoutdoors]

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[Cuoutdoors]

This is a quick easy fix. First of all if you look at your hinges you will likely find the door rests on the bottom of one and not the other. On my machine, at the top hinge my door rests on the steel hinge bracket. At the bottom hinge my door is floating between top and bottom of the steel. I also dont feel there is a lot of force straight down in this location. If the door is heavy with mud the force will be pulling at the top hinge and pushing at the bottom hinge.....continued

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[Cuoutdoors]

Now to fix the rattle you will need some solid UHMW bar stock that is exactly 1" in diameter. I bought some at a local plastic shop. All they had on hand was white and it works. You wont see them anyway. I bought 10 feet of it for $20. That's enough to make bushings for about 24 doors.

You have 2 options on cutting your bushing. You can add a washer to the bottom or go without. As I said before I dont think there is a lot of force straight down so i dont think they are necessary. I built a door with each version.

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[Cuoutdoors]

Cut the UHMW to the exact width of the steel hinge. It should be about 2 3/8". You want this to fit Tight! Pick what end you want to be the top and chamfer it very slightly. If you desire a big washer on bottom for the door to rest on you'll need to cut it shorter but still keep it snug.

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[Cuoutdoors]

Option with washer

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[Cuoutdoors]

Now you need a hole in the bushing. You dont need a fancy lathe or drill press. Just put it in a vice and take your time getting lined up.


First you'll want to drill a 3/16" pilot hole through the center of the bushing. I punched a mark in the center of each end and drilled half way in from each side. This method works pretty well. I used a crappy vice on a stand and a Milwaukee drill. If I can do it so can you.

Once you have drilled the pilot hole you will need to drill it out to exactly 5/16". The hinge pin will fit snug. Do not drill it any larger or it will rattle. Trust me.

Lastly I greased up the parts with marine grease and assembled. Install the bushing from the bottom side of the door hinge with the chamfer going up. The chamfer makes it easier to put in. Give it a few taps with a hammer and it will go right in. Grease the pin and tap it through the bushing.

My total cost in two doors was under $5 and it took me about 15 minutes to do each door.

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[Montecresto]

Now you need a hole in the bushing. You dont need a fancy lathe or drill press. Just put it in a vice and take your time getting lined up.


First you'll want to drill a 3/16" pilot hole through the center of the bushing. I punched a mark in the center of each end and drilled half way in from each side. This method works pretty well. I used a crappy vice on a stand and a Milwaukee drill. If I can do it so can you.

Once you have drilled the pilot hole you will need to drill it out to exactly 5/16". The hinge pin will fit snug. Do not drill it any larger or it will rattle. Trust me.

Lastly I greased up the parts with marine grease and assembled. Install the bushing from the bottom side of the door hinge with the chamfer going up. The chamfer makes it easier to put in. Give it a few taps with a hammer and it will go right in. Grease the pin and tap it through the bushing.

My total cost in two doors was under $5 and it took me about 15 minutes to do each door.View attachment 92895View attachment 92896View attachment 92897

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Very cool!! Thank you for sharing this!

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Mcmaster carr has uhmw stock for $2.19 per foot. You'll need 2ft to do bushings for 4 doors.

McMaster-Carr

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[CumminsPusher]

Awesome write up @Cuoutdoors. Cheap and easy, perfect

 

[elkguide]

Ingenuity at it's finest!

Great job.

 

[Neohio]

@301 Here is the instructions to make your own. You asked the other night.

 

[301]

@301 Here is the instructions to make your own. You asked the other night.

My stick of UHMW will be here Wednesday!

 

[301]

*UPDATE*

The pictured tools were what I used on this project. I didn't have a sander but for less than what I would've had in the Weller bushings, I now have a sander for life and tight doors.

I purchased both from Amazon (gotta love that PRIME shipping) and found the 1"D X 2'L stick of UHMW for $14.95.

The only problem that I incurred was when I tried to put the first bushing in a door. I had failed to remember the part where Cuoutdoors had mentioned tapping them in with a hammer. They seemed to be WAY oversized and I started to doubt my purchase. Went back and measured the diameter at a tick over 1". Confusion set in, "Did they make the older models with a larger bushing?", "Does one end of the hinge have a larger opening, WTF?". I re-read the instructions and out came the ball pein hammer. After a couple of firm hits it started in as I sighed relief that it didn't completely blow the hinge out and render the door worthless.

After pushing the hinge pins home my doors are now tighter than the nuts on a Tasmanian tomcat. There is absolutely no play and the door shuts effortlessly.

Thanks Cuoutdoors for being the guinea pig at trying to force those bushings through the doors!

 

[ohanacreek]

View attachment 93471 *UPDATE*

The pictured tools were what I used on this project. I didn't have a sander but for less than what I would've had in the Weller bushings, I now have a sander for life and tight doors.

I purchased both from Amazon (gotta love that PRIME shipping) and found the 1"D X 2'L stick of UHMW for $14.95.

The only problem that I incurred was when I tried to put the first bushing in a door. I had failed to remember the part where Cuoutdoors had mentioned tapping them in with a hammer. They seemed to be WAY oversized and I started to doubt my purchase. Went back and measured the diameter at a tick over 1". Confusion set in, "Did they make the older models with a larger bushing?", "Does one end of the hinge have a larger opening, WTF?". I re-read the instructions and out came the ball pein hammer. After a couple of firm hits it started in as I sighed relief that it didn't completely blow the hinge out and render the door worthless.

After pushing the hinge pins home my doors are now tighter than the nuts on a Tasmanian tomcat. There is absolutely no play and the door shuts effortlessly.

Thanks Cuoutdoors for being the guinea pig at trying to force those bushings through the doors!

I just ordered the last of the Amazon 1"x2' UHMW

 

[RedFred1]

This is a quick easy fix. First of all if you look at your hinges you will likely find the door rests on the bottom of one and not the other. On my machine, at the top hinge my door rests on the steel hinge bracket. At the bottom hinge my door is floating between top and bottom of the steel. I also dont feel there is a lot of force straight down in this location. If the door is heavy with mud the force will be pulling at the top hinge and pushing at the bottom hinge.....continuedView attachment 92886View attachment 92887

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Just for grins, did you try adjusting the hinge brackets? When I had mine apart I noticed the same thing as you. So when I reassembled them, I pushed the top hinge up and the bottom hinge down to take up the slack... worked for me as the door does not rattle. I had planned on trying the tubing on the latch, but will wait to see how it works out.

FredD

 

[Smitty335]

I'm in the machine shop business myself....and I'm also a consumer of specialty products. So allow me to just add kind of a neutral comment.

I have high precision CNC lathes that are capable of turning out a piece like this in a matter of a few seconds each...and the raw material...either Delrin, UHMW, Hydex, MDS nylon, or whatever you choose is relative in price. But you have to bear in mind that a machine tool capable of rapidly making these is expensive, to own and operate.

In this case, because of the simplicity of the part, there would be a minimal programming time to get the first set made...after that, the CNC programs are done and retained for future use.... and that cost goes away....

So the average guy that wants a set of door bushings cannot just go out and buy a CNC machine to make himself a set. Yes they can be made on a conventional lathe or even on a little hobby lathe...but not in any kind of quantity that would be profitable.

Now on the other hand...if I could make a set, or several sets at a time.....for, let's say, a total manufacturing cost of $10-$20 per set
then I (myself) couldn't justify making the price 15 times what it cost to manufacture them....what I would do is turn out a number of
sets in one run that would make a reasonable profit...... when sold at a reasonable price.

Also, although I have the capability to make just about anything that can be machined, I have a make/buy philosophy...
In other words....if I can buy it at a reasonable price...I do so...because my time is valuable as well.

Just my 2¢....
I don't cut anyone's throat for profit....

I bought a set of four door bushings, think it was close to $ 100.00, when I received them looked like they could have been made for a whole lot less, I considered the thought process of even coming up the bushings and feel satisfied with the price.

 

[hardlyworkin]

I just ordered the last of the Amazon 1"x2' UHMW

I just ordered the last 1" x 3' on Amazon. It was only a couple bucks more. Worth it!