P1000 Honda Auxiliary Fuse Panel and True Dual battery isolator

AmBulls

AmBulls

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Hi, I’m in the process of installing a True dual battery setup. I have the Honda Auxiliary fuse panel already installed on my 2022 1000-5 Trail. Will this work?
Thanks
89CBB35A EF85 43FE 907C A0521066D948
89CBB35A EF85 43FE 907C A0521066D948
 
Scoop

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Looks about right. Most energize the Stinger with a key-on harness from the 12V socket, but as long as your existing fuse panel puts out 12V when you want it (e.g., key-on), that works, too. Many install a DPDT switch so that they can power the AUX fuse panel and all attached accessories *either* when the key is on OR when the switch is in the AUX position, but not required.

Welcome. Oh, and you better post up some pics of your machine or it doesn't exist! The local sheriff will be around these parts to remind you, too.
 
AmBulls

AmBulls

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Looks about right. Most energize the Stinger with a key-on harness from the 12V socket, but as long as your existing fuse panel puts out 12V when you want it (e.g., key-on), that works, too. Many install a DPDT switch so that they can power the AUX fuse panel and all attached accessories *either* when the key is on OR when the switch is in the AUX position, but not required.

Welcome. Oh, and you better post up some pics of your machine or it doesn't exist! The local sheriff will be around these parts to remind you, too.
Thanks for the info!
 
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packer58

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You may also want to consider installing a pos and neg buss bar to help eliminate stacking wires on your battery posts.
The Aux/Off/Key On switch sold in the club store is a great addition and gives you a lot of flexibility on how you power up your accessories.
 
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Wisco-Tango

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@AmBulls if you are using the OEM Aux fuse panel it has it's own trigger wire that essentially performs the same function as the Stinger. See the connection circled below. There is a trigger wire as part of the harness needed to implement this fuse panel that ties into the Key on harness taped up under the hood.
1680618860510

All you would need to do is wire the isolator and the second battery in as you show but eliminate the stinger and run the positive and negative from the second battery to the Aux panel. As @Scoop mentions you can also wire a DPDT switch to allow use of stuff connected to this panel with the key off.
 
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AmBulls

AmBulls

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  1. 1000-5
You may also want to consider installing a pos and neg buss bar to help eliminate stacking wires on your battery posts.
The Aux/Off/Key On switch sold in the club store is a great addition and gives you a lot of flexibility on how you power up your accessories.
@AmBulls if you are using the OEM Aux fuse panel it has it's own trigger wire that essentially performs the same function as the Stinger. See the connection circled below. There is a trigger wire as part of the harness needed to implement this fuse panel that ties into the Key on harness taped up under the hood.
View attachment 381837
All you would need to do is wire the isolator and the second battery in as you show but eliminate the stinger and run the positive and negative from the second battery to the Aux panel. As @Scoop mentions you can also wire a DPDT switch to allow use of stuff connected to this panel with the key off.
So, I have used the trigger wire for my oem wiper. As this is already hooked up, can I just run the pos and neg from the aux panel to 2nd battery?
Thanks!
 
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Wisco-Tango

Wisco-Tango

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So, I have used the trigger wire for my oem wiper. As this is already hooked up, can I just run the pos and neg from the aux panel to 2nd battery?
Thanks!
In short yes, just make sure to include the isolator between the first battery and second as necessary and ground everything back to the machine ground.
 
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HighboyPioneer

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Good info thanks. I too am wiring up a dual battery with OEM Honda fuse block. Has anyone figured out how (where?) to wire the True Isolator to crank side of ignition?
 
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HighboyPioneer

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Starter wire, or starter relay wire.
Most don't install this.
Am I correct in understanding that it allows both batteries to help with start?
 
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HighboyPioneer

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No. it is a DISCONNECT.
Its job is to disconnect when craking to protect the second circuit if wanted.
Ah okay. Thanks for the clarification.
 
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HighboyPioneer

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I’m working on my new 1000-6. Unwrapped the factory key on power from the blue tape but get no voltage out of it. Does it come hot or do I need to fuse it somewhere?
 
Hondasxs

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I’m working on my new 1000-6. Unwrapped the factory key on power from the blue tape but get no voltage out of it. Does it come hot or do I need to fuse it somewhere?
Single wire on the driver's side?
Its key-on hot.
 
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HighboyPioneer

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Single wire on the driver's side?
Its key-on hot.
Mine isn’t….ugh. It’s dead. I’ll make the dealer sort it out when I have them do the initial 20 hour valve service.
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Mine isn’t….ugh. It’s dead. I’ll make the dealer sort it out when I have them do the initial 20 hour valve service.
Does your CIG socket have power? Find something and plug it in and see. or test light it.
ACC circuit if you want to check the fuse.
 
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HighboyPioneer

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Well, I don’t mind mentioning my dumb mistakes. Maybe it will help someone as dumb as me. So, I initially wired up a stinger to my OEM fuse block and did a jumper fuse for key on hot, because I didn’t know about the factory key on hot. Then I learned about factory key on hot. Well, if you have a jumper fuse installed, the factory key on hot is disabled. I finally thought to remove the jumper in #5 and sure enough it works. Anyways, now that I know the OEM fuse has an essential isolator built in, I removed the stinger and jumper in #5 and all is well in the world. The OEM key on hot splitter works great and allows me to run to OEM fuse block and AUX/MAIN battery display. I like to do things the hard way obviously. Thanks for the help here.
 
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HighboyPioneer

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20 hour valve service?
Dealer said it’s crucial. Rest of the services are not crucial. They only recommended having the dealer do the first service. Showed me valves from guys that skipped the service. They had close to 1/2” elongation on valve stem. They want $400 to inspect and if one time adjustment is required then they want $700.
 
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