P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Replacement - A How To Guide!

snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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I used a narrow flat head screw driver with about 3/4" of the end bent to a 30 deg angle to push the spring gear over. If my memory is correct, the springs between the gears are captured so don't know if it really matters if it is loaded.
 
russknight

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I used a narrow flat head screw driver with about 3/4" of the end bent to a 30 deg angle to push the spring gear over. If my memory is correct, the springs between the gears are captured so don't know if it really matters if it is loaded.

I used a narrow straight screwdriver, what a pain in the butt. Had to put the transmission in gear to keep the motor from turning over as I was trying to set the tension. Buttoned everything back up, started it up, let it warm until the cooling fan came on, reset the clutches, works perfect. I believe it is even shifting quieter now for some reason. I think I could do the next one in a couple of hours if a complete tear down wasn't required. Thanks everyone for all the help!
 
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Mikewarr74

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I’ve got a question or I should say a problem I followed your instructions to replacing my clutch and everything went smooth till I tried to relearn the clutch procedure, and for some reason it would never go completely through the procedure. It stopped like it didn’t take it so I tried it again still same affect, so I tried to take it and put it in gear and just see what it did to drive And I’m having problems with it soon as I put it in reverse it bogs my engine,down then going to high I can only go a little ways and it just kills my engine and it won’t go back up into park until I shut it off and then shift it up to park Can anyone help me determine what my problem is I tried re-learning it two or three more times and it still would not take it. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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HondaTech

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I’ve got a question or I should say a problem I followed your instructions to replacing my clutch and everything went smooth till I tried to relearn the clutch procedure, and for some reason it would never go completely through the procedure. It stopped like it didn’t take it so I tried it again still same affect, so I tried to take it and put it in gear and just see what it did to drive And I’m having problems with it soon as I put it in reverse it bogs my engine,down then going to high I can only go a little ways and it just kills my engine and it won’t go back up into park until I shut it off and then shift it up to park Can anyone help me determine what my problem is I tried re-learning it two or three more times and it still would not take it. Any advice would be appreciated.

So it's pulling immediately when put in gear?

You probably didn't get the assembly all the way on.
 
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Mikewarr74

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You mean on the transmission shaft?
So what you’re saying is when I tried to put the clutch assembly back on the shaft that I didn’t get it seated all the way wouldn’t that stop my clutch cover from going all the way and bolted up?
 
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Mikewarr74

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So what you’re saying is the clutch assembly didn’t go all the way on the shaft of the transmission and seat please any help is appreciated. I’m pulling my hair now.
 
snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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More details on what's it's doing during the relearn. U have to do it fast, foot off the brake, not rolling, engine up to temp.... Is the battery fully charged and cables tight? Oil full. Do u have a manual to refer to? Small u or U on dash? A relearn resets the ecu to how much oil it needs to start engaging the clutch. Could be all kinds of things. Any errors on the dash, counting blinks?
 
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Mikewarr74

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I did not see any u’s big or small I know what they look like I’ve seen them before started this when engine temperature was up to 150 to 160 did not see any codes blinking did see look like a big E when it killed the engine when I was trying to test drive it in High but I know when I put it into high While it’s running, I cannot go back up to park until I shut the engine off or the key off but from reverse when engine was running it would go back to park! I will say this it seems like it is. Gift a lot louder then I’m used to hearing!
 
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So what you’re saying is the clutch assembly didn’t go all the way on the shaft of the transmission and seat please any help is appreciated. I’m pulling my hair now.

If shifting sub gears is difficult, then that is s possibility.
 
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Mikewarr74

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So what are my chances that I haven’t smoked this clutch already and I have to buy a new one or do I have a chance that it’s ok by taking it all apart and trying to get it to go up in there more I know CP punisher said that the cover should go up tightly without using the bolts I had maybe an eighth of an inch gap But I didn’t force the bolts to pull it up ?
 
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snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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I imagine 1 of the clutches was toast? Did u take the Valve body apart and clean and also the screen inside the VB? Did u pull the oil pan off and check/clean the pickup tube? The pressure regulator in the VB can cause problems too. Usually a good idea to replace it if having problems. The shift solenoids and 3 oil pressure sensors have screens that can get blocked up by clutch fibers also.
 
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DRZRon1

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there’s a descent utube video out there that shows assembly in machine before cover goes on - may help, not smart enough to attach link - it looked finicky to get it seated all the way

and what he said above - was everything cleaned and flushed
 
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BrianWWatkins

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sorry if you already answered this but what is the part number for the plastic split rings you replace towards the end? Im trying to find it in some of the schematics but im unsure.... Any help is appreciated. smoked mine last week so its slipping now.. Thanks
 
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russknight

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sorry if you already answered this but what is the part number for the plastic split rings you replace towards the end? Im trying to find it in some of the schematics but im unsure.... Any help is appreciated. smoked mine last week so its slipping now.. Thanks
It's part #1 in this diagram. You need two of them. You could replace part #2 in that diagram while you're in there, although I didn't and mine works great. Plus there are 4 o-rings, part #7 in this diagram. Just be careful sliding the clutch assembly on and off the input shaft and lubricate the o-rings and split rings good with motor oil. I also removed the back bed, made things MUCH easier. It's a little aggravating but be patient and don't force anything. The tolerances are tight.
 
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Officer30

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I’m trying to replace one of my clutches. I’m having issues with getting the whole thing to seat back in the machine I need it to go another 1/4 inch in, it appears to be getting stuck on the gears on the left.
 
Dezrik

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I’m trying to replace one of my clutches. I’m having issues with getting the whole thing to seat back in the machine I need it to go another 1/4 inch in, it appears to be getting stuck on the gears on the left.
Your going to need to twist the gear to tension the anti rattle mechanism to get it all the way in. Unless you don't have the clutches fully seated
 
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