P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Replacement - A How To Guide!

[TripleB]

I followed this guide and cannot get the bike to take the relearn! I am stressed to say the least. I am about to take back apart. If it doesn’t work this time it is going to cost me 400 (parts already spent) plus the $2800 from the dealerShip. Any help or thoughts are appreciated!!

FYI I've done numerous relearns on my 2 pioneers with no issues other than the occasional mess up on the sequence. When we were doing a relearn on @Ohio4x4 machine, it wouldn't take even though it had been running for 10 minutes and reading 2 bars. We tried multiple times. I gave it a little throttle for a couple of minutes, then tried the relearn and it took the first try after keeping the RPMS up for a bit.

 

[Jblanders]

What happens when you try the re-learn? Any responses from your display?

It goes through and clicks and all that stuff. Slow dash, then just blinks fast. Nothing else

 

[Jblanders]

I followed this guide and cannot get the bike to take the relearn! I am stressed to say the least. I am about to take back apart. If it doesn’t work this time it is going to cost me 400 (parts already spent) plus the $2800 from the dealerShip. Any help or thoughts are appreciated!!

UPDATE,
I took it apart, had a broken ring seal, replaced it. Put it back together and still will not take the relearn!

 

[Jblanders]

UPDATE,
I took it apart, had a broken ring seal, replaced it. Put it back together and still will not take the relearn!

I took it back out, nothing is wrong, the only
Thing I see is the 1/3/5 replaced clutch pack is not as close the the center gear as the forward 2/4/6 clutch pack, but the replaced clutch pack is level with the splines as it was before replacement.

 

[Jblanders]

I took it back out, nothing is wrong, the only
Thing I see is the 1/3/5 replaced clutch pack is not as close the the center gear as the forward 2/4/6 clutch pack, but the replaced clutch pack is level with the splines as it was before replacement.

 

[Jblanders]

View attachment 333015

 

[castleman1]

View attachment 333015

looks normal, heres the pic I took when I pulled mine

 

[CumminsPusher]

UPDATE,
I took it apart, had a broken ring seal, replaced it. Put it back together and still will not take the relearn!

If any of the seals are bunged up it won’t go, can be tough. Did it go in smoothly, cover snap tight without force? Possibly pickup screen dirty?

 

[Cajun-Abear]

I followed this guide and cannot get the bike to take the relearn! I am stressed to say the least. I am about to take back apart. If it doesn’t work this time it is going to cost me 400 (parts already spent) plus the $2800 from the dealerShip. Any help or thoughts are appreciated!!

Pull your ECM plugs and make sure there is no water in them. That kept mine from completing the relearn procedure. It was posted somewhere in another thread, worked like a charm for me.

 

[castleman1]

I did this on my used 2016 along with the updated cover. The shifting didn't seem right on the test drive but the price was good and after doing this it shifts great. Original owner took it to Honda dealer every year for oil/filter changes and updates. Apparently they did the muffler guard and steering joint recall but told him the cab heat and bad shifts were how the machine was supposed to be. I did decide to remove the bed for the replacement after inspecting the cover to see if it was already updated. Pulling the bed wasn't too bad and I think it saved my back.

 

[P1K5Dave]

IMPORTANT UPDATE

For the purposes of keeping this guide up to date, @HondaTech posted a thread about proper cleaning of your inner workings when doing a clutch replacement. It is recommended that you include these steps in your repairs.

P1000 - Importance of engine cleaning after clutch failure

Pictures of inside the valve body, oil tank and oil pan of Pioneer 1000 after clutch failure. This is why i recommend disassembling and cleaning the rear of the engine after the clutch fails in the 1000 series engine. Flushing will never remove this debris.

hondasxs.com

 

[Dwriley]

How do you remove the snap ring that holds the clutch pack on the shaft? I’ve tried everything. Using snap ring pliers. I’ve also searched this tread Thanks for any help.

 

[Dwriley]

How do you remove the snap ring that holds the clutch pack on the shaft? I’ve tried everything. Using snap ring pliers. I’ve also searched this tread Thanks for any help.

Never mind. I figured it out

 

[russknight]

I did this last week to my '18 Pioneer 1000. It took me closer to six hours, but I took apart the valve body and checked the screens, cleaned the solenoids, etc. I was getting both AT and MT lights on full-time, and it would not initialize, so I went a little deeper while I was in there.

A few notes from my experience:

The two nylon rings on the shaft are not mentioned in the initial parts list! I noticed that someone mentioned it a while back, and it was acknowledged to be missing, but it has not been added to the parts list. I didn't have new ones as a result, but I did put it back together and run with the older ones. They looked in decent shape.

Also, I'd recommend marking or otherwise familiarizing yourself with the front/back clutch packs and the gears that go into them. Following the method in the instructions suggests that one just remember up/down by what you did last, and that can get lost in your head quickly. Especially since you may find yourself removing them and starting over a few times while trying to re-assemble and get it all the way in. The gear on the inside clutch pack tends to wiggle itself out while installing.

The service manual does not give a torque spec for the 8 clutch cover bolts, but it does specify 10 ft lbs for the valve body cover, and the general spec for 6mm flange bolts in the manual is 9 lbs, so you can figure 9-10 lbs will be good.

Overall, not too bad of a job to DIY. As mentioned, the hardest part is getting the assembly back in all the way. It took me about 4 times of removing and starting over. I could probably do it in 2-3 hours next time.

Thanks for the instructions @CumminsPusher

I did this last week to my '18 Pioneer 1000. It took me closer to six hours, but I took apart the valve body and checked the screens, cleaned the solenoids, etc. I was getting both AT and MT lights on full-time, and it would not initialize, so I went a little deeper while I was in there.

A few notes from my experience:

The two nylon rings on the shaft are not mentioned in the initial parts list! I noticed that someone mentioned it a while back, and it was acknowledged to be missing, but it has not been added to the parts list. I didn't have new ones as a result, but I did put it back together and run with the older ones. They looked in decent shape.

Also, I'd recommend marking or otherwise familiarizing yourself with the front/back clutch packs and the gears that go into them. Following the method in the instructions suggests that one just remember up/down by what you did last, and that can get lost in your head quickly. Especially since you may find yourself removing them and starting over a few times while trying to re-assemble and get it all the way in. The gear on the inside clutch pack tends to wiggle itself out while installing.

The service manual does not give a torque spec for the 8 clutch cover bolts, but it does specify 10 ft lbs for the valve body cover, and the general spec for 6mm flange bolts in the manual is 9 lbs, so you can figure 9-10 lbs will be good.

Overall, not too bad of a job to DIY. As mentioned, the hardest part is getting the assembly back in all the way. It took me about 4 times of removing and starting over. I could probably do it in 2-3 hours next time.

Thanks for the instructions @CumminsPusher !

Anyone have the part number(s) for the nylon split rings? I don't see them on the clutch parts diagram.

 

[Dezrik]

Anyone have the part number(s) for the nylon split rings? I don't see them on the clutch parts diagram.

Look at the transmission section on the diagram but I think 22814-RGC-003.

After doing this job a few times now on customer units I think everyone should take apart the valve body and clean it and the sensors also, they are full of clutch material.

 

[russknight]

Look at the transmission section on the diagram but I think 22814-RGC-003.

After doing this job a few times now on customer units I think everyone should take apart the valve body and clean it and the sensors also, they are full of clutch material.

Number 1 in this diagram?

Transmission

 

[Dezrik]

Number 1 in this diagram?

Transmission

Yup that's the smallest split ring.

 

[Brap-tor]

Hello there, just looking over your post. I have a 2016 1000-5 Deluxe. Getting worried about what I’m seeing about this clutch upgrade. I know for a fact it hasn’t been done. Do I need to jack with the clutch or just the cover ? Or both. I want to make sure I get this thing fixed before anything happens. It seems to be running just fine. Any help would be appreciated thanks

 

[HondaTech]

Hello there, just looking over your post. I have a 2016 1000-5 Deluxe. Getting worried about what I’m seeing about this clutch upgrade. I know for a fact it hasn’t been done. Do I need to jack with the clutch or just the cover ? Or both. I want to make sure I get this thing fixed before anything happens. It seems to be running just fine. Any help would be appreciated thanks

Pull the cover to do the update and look at the outer clutch, it's the only one that's usually damaged. You can remove the plates separately by taking out the snap ring to get a better look at the condition.

To replace the clutch, if it's damaged I recommend removing the rear engine cover/oil tank/ oil pan and cleaning everything because changing the oil will never get it all out. That and the spring drive gear has to be set anyway when the clutch assembly is removed.

I'd inspect the cover first to verify you have the update, unless the clutch is already slipping.

 

[Brap-tor]

Pull the cover to do the update and look at the outer clutch, it's the only one that's usually damaged. You can remove the plates separately by taking out the snap ring to get a better look at the condition.

To replace the clutch, if it's damaged I recommend removing the rear engine cover/oil tank/ oil pan and cleaning everything because changing the oil will never get it all out. That and the spring drive gear has to be set anyway when the clutch assembly is removed.

I'd inspect the cover first to verify you have the update, unless the clutch is already slipping.

Thanks. No slipping at all. I just want to get on top of it before anything happens. So if everything looks good should I just replace the cover and gasket with the upgraded one? How many miles should you get out of the clutch? Thanks again