P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Internal gear reduction

snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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The auto shifting can be corrected with a piggy back module from a company in Canada. They make a module that's used on the Rincon and the Rancher 420 DCT that has the same issue after reduction. We've yet to test one on the 1k but I've spoken with the guy at the company and he's sure the module could be adapted to the 1k because it's very similar to the atv's other than having an extra sensor that's involved in reading the speeds of the diffs and sub-trans. This is still in the works, the main bug we've been working on was the noise.
Have y'all looked into getting the gears REM finished?
 
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Boomboom907

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What is this going to do to my warranty? Is this a mod that should wait until my warranty is up?

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snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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What is this going to do to my warranty? Is this a mod that should wait until my warranty is up?

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Probably depends on your local dealer. Considering you are changing gears and machining the spacer plate, probably would not expect warranty to cover any of the driveline after doing it. Best to call your dealer and ask about it.
 
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Boomboom907

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Probably depends on your local dealer. Considering you are changing gears and machining the spacer plate, probably would not expect warranty to cover any of the driveline after doing it. Best to call your dealer and ask about it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, the warranty is not through the dealer it's through Honda. So Honda sets the rules for what is disqualifying and it's sort of up to the dealer to honor or report it, correct?

My dealer said big tires and a snorkel won't effect my warranty, but if a regional manager or parts dude or something of that effect saw the rig he could void the warranty couldn't he?

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jaybyrd

jaybyrd

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A different drive gear design got rid of the whine, better tooth profile. The dealers I've talked to are eager to install the reduction because they see the benefits from it with the clutch issues and not voiding warranty just because the reduction has been installed. If something were to fail with the reduction itself I'm standing behind that side of things as long as it was installed by a dealer but I can't cover something that's been installed improperly by a non-certified mechanic. The best thing to do is talk to your dealer because they have different opinions on mods and things like that as far as warranty work.
 
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jaybyrd

jaybyrd

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Hey guys I'm the creator of the reduction, I'm here to answer any questions. I've got an updated version of the IGR now that is no louder than stock. I will post a short little vid to give you an idea but will have better vids soon. I was unaware until yesterday that scooterchris was no longer active on the forum so I'm here to kinda take over where he left off. Thanks
 
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PioneerPete

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A different drive gear design got rid of the whine, better tooth profile. The dealers I've talked to are eager to install the reduction because they see the benefits from it with the clutch issues and not voiding warranty just because the reduction has been installed. If something were to fail with the reduction itself I'm standing behind that side of things as long as it was installed by a dealer but I can't cover something that's been installed improperly by a non-certified mechanic. The best thing to do is talk to your dealer because they have different opinions on mods and things like that as far as warranty work.
do you know if Southern Honda Powersports in Chattanooga, TN has installed one of these?
 
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Boomboom907

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Ballpark the time it would take for a dealer who has never installed, and what kind of warranty are you offering?

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jaybyrd

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Had two installed in TX at different dealers also.

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jaybyrd

jaybyrd

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Ballpark the time it would take for a dealer who has never installed, and what kind of warranty are you offering?

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I'd figure 5-6 hrs. on a first time install for a good mechanic. Basically takes longer to get the bed off and everything out of the way to get to the engine than it does to do the engine work itself. 90 day warranty on parts, if something like this is gonna fail it's gonna happen in the first few hours.

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Boomboom907

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I'd figure 5-6 hrs. on a first time install for a good mechanic. Basically takes longer to get the bed off and everything out of the way to get to the engine than it does to do the engine work itself. 90 day warranty on parts, if something like this is gonna fail it's gonna happen in the first few hours.

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Yeah... My shop charges 90 an hour...

800 for the unit
600 for shop labor

800 minimum you get no warranty, non revertible, takes 6 hours to install, 25% lower gears, and 95% throttle

1400 minimum you only getting a 90 day warranty, and non revertible, 25% lower gears, and 95% throttle

For 2900 superatv portal lifts with a lifetime warranty, 4 inches of lift, it's revertible, 30% lower gears, and 100% throttle

At half the price I guess I would be happy to pay for it if I got a lifetime warranty, but I'm not paying that if I'm halfway to the real deal.

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jaybyrd

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I believe the portals are only actually 27-28% but advertised as 30. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that. Yeah they give you a lifetime warranty on the boxes but what happens when you break a gear which jams up and you snap that axle. They aren't gonna replace that axle. How much downtime are you looking at when a box fails even if it gets replaced for free? The 95% throttle can be fixed with the module which is around $125-$150. All you'll have to do to revert back from the reduction is buy a new clutch hub and swap the parts back out unless you pay the core fee. It's not an irreversible modification. Stock drive gear is not needed for reduction either, you keep it. Now as far as pro's and cons between the two. The reduction uses gears of the same OEM quality as the stock gears and will last just as long. This isn't something that's gonna wear out and need to be replaced. The portals require maintenance and will have to be rebuilt eventually. They add 150-160 lbs. to the machine. They rob power through the gearing similar to how a supercharger on an engine does. They add more stress to all of the suspension components, ball-joints, tie-rods, etc...not to mention the frame itself where the control arms attach. They are more easily prone to failure. If the machine gets off counter in a hole or on a hill and more stress is put on one wheel that's grabbing more than the others the portal isn't designed to handle all of that load on one corner, it can easily bust a gear. None of this applies to the IGR, it's basically just like the OEM parts but a lower ratio, no power loss, no added weight, no added stress to the chassis of the machine. Even with the added cost of the auto fix module the IGR is still only slightly more than 1/3rd of the cost of boxes. People have been running IGR's in atv's for years with no issues if they're made and installed right. How often have you seen a primary drive gear or clutch gear from an atv or motorcycle engine wear a measurable amount? I haven't. It's the same material as the stock parts just different sizes. I have 15+ yrs metalworking experience and been making atv reductions for several years now.

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joeymt33

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I believe the portals are only actually 27-28% but advertised as 30. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that. Yeah they give you a lifetime warranty on the boxes but what happens when you break a gear which jams up and you snap that axle. They aren't gonna replace that axle. How much downtime are you looking at when a box fails even if it gets replaced for free? The 95% throttle can be fixed with the module which is around $125-$150. All you'll have to do to revert back from the reduction is buy a new clutch hub and swap the parts back out unless you pay the core fee. It's not an irreversible modification. Stock drive gear is not needed for reduction either, you keep it. Now as far as pro's and cons between the two. The reduction uses gears of the same OEM quality as the stock gears and will last just as long. This isn't something that's gonna wear out and need to be replaced. The portals require maintenance and will have to be rebuilt eventually. They add 150-160 lbs. to the machine. They rob power through the gearing similar to how a supercharger on an engine does. They add more stress to all of the suspension components, ball-joints, tie-rods, etc...not to mention the frame itself where the control arms attach. They are more easily prone to failure. If the machine gets off counter in a hole or on a hill and more stress is put on one wheel that's grabbing more than the others the portal isn't designed to handle all of that load on one corner, it can easily bust a gear. None of this applies to the IGR, it's basically just like the OEM parts but a lower ratio, no power loss, no added weight, no added stress to the chassis of the machine. Even with the added cost of the auto fix module the IGR is still only slightly more than 1/3rd of the cost of boxes. People have been running IGR's in atv's for years with no issues if they're made and installed right. How often have you seen a primary drive gear or clutch gear from an atv or motorcycle engine wear a measurable amount? I haven't. It's the same material as the stock parts just different sizes. I have 15+ yrs metalworking experience and been making atv reductions for several years now.

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Well said, let us know about that module and if it's an option you'll be offering. I'm ready when you're ready to offer the total package. Not feeling good about piecing it together from different people.
 
Michigander

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I would like to use 28" tires, but have absolutely zero interest in the IGR.

Its like a slap in the face that my dealer with zero, zip, zilch experience in installs needs to install it for me to have a warranty... a measly 90day one at that.

I'm far more mechanical than most, and don't need the dealer for mods. I'll just get better 8ply stock size tires, and lift it slightly.
 
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Boomboom907

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I would like to use 28" tires, but have absolutely zero interest in the IGR.

Its like a slap in the face that my dealer with zero, zip, zilch experience in installs needs to install it for me to have a warranty... a measly 90day one at that.

I'm far more mechanical than most, and don't need the dealer for mods. I'll just get better 8ply stock size tires, and lift it slightly.
Agreed. 90 day warranty isn't worth talking about. My backpacks come with a better warranty than that.

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