P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Oil Change Guide!

[dale5740]

How do you like the mirror? Just saw the box behind the oil bottles. Do you think the roll cage cargo bag would reduce visibility ?

mirror so far is real nice I think I will like it.

 

[dale5740]

Thats how mine looked too. I think its just a result of the break-in - not special oil they put in.

how many miles u got now?

 

[Digger]

Thanks for the great info. Did my first oil change yesterday with no problems at all.

 

[Tabascojunkie]

Save some money!! Better than 14$ ea at dealer and they are delivered to you

 

[BIGRACK]

I was just curious cause I changed my oil and it looks dark in a clear glass but looks great on a paper towel

Same here with mine

 

[CumminsPusher]

Special thanks to jackal and hondasxs. Brought all materials up camping with us last weekend and fluid changes went well. First time doing any of it and luckily we had service and got on the site. Thanks so much guys for your hard work it took the guessing out of it. I was pretty sure I could figure it out but didn't have the manual or anything other then photo on phone of the different levels but didn't want to guess I figured I'd trust in the site it payed off. Also bumped up the front and rear ends to heavy grade like what was suggested on this site by several, went Lucas and I'll never look back it is quieter. Next time I'll bring ramps though so I don't have to be so precariously balanced on logs! Seriously though thank you so much everyone!

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

View attachment 9439​

The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed.....

Which has more oil in it, the oil tank, or the engine? I'm trying to figure out which of my used oil containers which are different sizes should go.

 

[Hondasxs]

Which has more oil in it, the oil tank, or the engine? I'm trying to figure out which of my used oil containers which are different sizes should go.

Humm... don't remember. I would guess the oil tank.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

Thanks for the write up. It helped. Just did the 1st service, and also did the Sub Trans oil change also since I already had all the oil change stuff out.

 

[Hondasxs]

Thanks for the write up. It helped. Just did the 1st service, and also did the Sub Trans oil change also since I already had all the oil change stuff out.

Sooo... What was the answer?

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

Sooo... What was the answer?

Well Sir, I'm pretty sure the crankcase wins, but honestly I was dodging hot oil, that my home made oil deflector missed. Haha.

 

[rmk700]

Well Sir, I'm pretty sure the crankcase wins, but honestly I was dodging hot oil, that my home made oil deflector missed. Haha.

Well it is a little tough....the one plug is horizontal and drains straight down until the plug is all the way out then the oil shoots out horizontaly and your quickly moving the oil bucket trying to catch it but by then oil is all over on your concrete. It gave me the impression maybe I am a slob. Lol

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

Well it is a little tough....the one plug is horizontal and drains straight down until the plug is all the way out then the oil shoots out horizontaly and your quickly moving the oil bucket trying to catch it but by then oil is all over on your concrete. It gave me the impression maybe I am a slob. Lol

Haha, that's funny. I wouldn't worry about being a slob, cuz the Pioneer is a bit challenging of a vehicle to do an oil change on . Not really difficult just akward. I don't blame Honda, because I just don't think they could have done much of anything to improve it. Maybe 1 large removable hatch that would allow the flow of oil a larger hole to go through without using the skid plate for a catch can. I still enjoyed doing the work myself, and it gives you an opportunity to familiarize yourself with your machine.

 

[DTAGG]

Haha, that's funny. I wouldn't worry about being a slob, cuz the Pioneer is a bit challenging of a vehicle to do an oil change on . Not really difficult just akward. I don't blame Honda, because I just don't think they could have done much of anything to improve it. Maybe 1 large removable hatch that would allow the flow of oil a larger hole to go through without using the skid plate for a catch can. I still enjoyed doing the work myself, and it gives you an opportunity to familiarize yourself with your machine.

When i did my first oil change i was so careful not to spill any oil and did a great job of it until i left the oil pan under the machine after running and checking levels. yup , you guessed it. i ran over the pan full of engine oil and spilled it all over the garage floor.. helluva mess.

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

When i did my first oil change i was so careful not to spill any oil and did a great job of it until i left the oil pan under the machine after running and checking levels. yup , you guessed it. i ran over the pan full of engine oil and spilled it all over the garage floor.. helluva mess.

Oh man, that's to funny.

 

[JohnyRingo]

I just changed my engine oil yesterday and I ended up with too much oil on the dipstick afterwards. I drained both plugs and replaced the engine oil filter. I did not replace the DCT oil filter, so maybe that's where the extra oil came from. I did have the front end of the Pioneer up on ramps so maybe I didn't get all the oil out. Either way, I need to drain some oil out. Does it matter which plug I drain? I am also thinking of just taking off the DCT filter cover and drain whatever oil comes out of there. In theory, that should be the amount of oil that needs drained.

 

[JACKAL]

I just changed my engine oil yesterday and I ended up with too much oil on the dipstick afterwards. I drained both plugs and replaced the engine oil filter. I did not replace the DCT oil filter, so maybe that's where the extra oil came from. I did have the front end of the Pioneer up on ramps so maybe I didn't get all the oil out. Either way, I need to drain some oil out. Does it matter which plug I drain? I am also thinking of just taking off the DCT filter cover and drain whatever oil comes out of there. In theory, that should be the amount of oil that needs drained.

Just asking because you didn't mention it. Did you follow the procedure as lined out in the owners manual for checking the oil level? You have to run it for a few min, turn it off, wait one min, then check the level. And it does matter if you change both filters or not on how much oil you add, that too is in the owners manual. as far as getting excess oil out it would not matter but the back plug may be easier to manage as it is pretty much pointing down and not off to the side.

 

[jmcirilo]

Excellent instructions. Will used them when I needed to do my... Great job...

 

[BigT]

Great write up - just serviced mine and ready to go out for a ride! Thanks for adding the info on resetting the maintenance minder.

 

[jstreun]

View attachment 9439​

The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!

1. Engine Oil and Filter
2. DCT Filter
3. Sub Transmission - Change Guide HERE!

In this thread, we will ONLY be discussing the Engine Oil, Oil Filter, and DCT Filter.
***WARNING - DO NOT DRAIN THE WRONG PLUG!***
Before we start it is important that you locate each drain and be able to tell which one is for what. There are 3 drains and they can be easily mixed up causing you draining the wrong one!
View attachment 9436 View attachment 10697

• Sub Transmission (closest to the front of the SxS)
• Engine Oil (middle)
• DCT Oil tank (closet to the rear of the SxS)

Supplies needed:

• Flat Head Screw Driver or Fender Clip Removal Tool to remove the clips.
• 12 mm Socket for Engine & DCT drain plugs.
• 10mm Socket on 1/8" drive ratchet for filter covers.
• Honda recommends a Torque wrench.
  
• A Few Rags.
• Two Oil Catch Pans.
• Funnel with extended tube to reach into the fill hole. I use a version of this funnel from Walmart, it lets you turn the flow on and off as well as measured calibrations on the side: FloTool Measu-Funnel, 7pc - Walmart.com

Required Oil and Filters:

• OIL Filter Part Number - 15412-HP7-A01 - Buy Here
• DCT Filter Part Number - 15412-MGS-D21 - Buy Here
• Recommended Oil - Pro Honda GN4 10x30, 4-Stroke Motor Oil - Buy Here
  • 6.1 US qt (5.8 liters) after draining, Oil filter and DCT filter change.
    
  • 6.0 US gt (5.7 liters) after draining and engine oil filter change.
    
  • 5.8 US qt (5.5 liters) after drain ONLY!

Optional Parts

• Engine Oil Filter
• O-RING - Oil Filter Cover (75X2.5), Part# 91301-107-000
  
• SPRING - Oil Part# 15414-KF0-000
  
• Bolt - Cover - Oil (6X18), Part# 95701-06018-00

• DCT
• O-RING - DCT Filter Cover (39.8X2.2), Part# 91302-PA9-003
  
• SPRING - DCT Part# 15414-MEB-670
  
• Bolt - Cover - DCT (6X18), Part# 95701-06018-00

• OIL DRAINS, Pan and Tank.
• Bolt - Oil Pan/Tank, Part# 90131-896-650
  
• Washer - Oil Pan/Tank, Part# 94109-12000

GETTING STARTED!
Step 1 - Prepare the work area and the SxS:
Locate a safe and level spot to park the SxS.
Operate the SxS long enough to warm the engine. Around 5 minuets.
Drive to selected spot.
Insure SxS is in park.
Turn off and remove key.

Step 2 - Accessing the Oil Fill Cap
Remove the rear mudguard lid under the cargo bed.
Loosen the Remove the Oil Fill Cap to allow faster drain.
View attachment 10695View attachment 10694

Step 3 - Drain the Oil:
3.1 - Drain Oil Pan
View attachment 10923View attachment 11068
Place the first oil drain pan under the Oil Pan drain plug. (the middle drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm wrench. Note: oil will spurt straight out towards the drivers side edge of the SXS make sure you are clear so you do not get burned by hot oil. Be sure and have the drain pan in position to avoid spillage. Allow oil to drain.

3.2 - Drain Oil Tank
View attachment 10920
Place the second drain pan under the Oil Tank plug (The rear drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm socket. Allow oil to drain.

Allow both to drain simultaneously until finished.
Reinstall both drain plugs with sealing washers.
Note: Honda recommends installing a NEW sealing washer.
Recommend torque specs are 30N.m (3.1 kgf, 22 lbf.ft).

Step 4 - Replacing the Filters:
View attachment 10698
Sitting by the rear driver wheel you can see and access both the Oil Filter and DCT Filter. Each is identified with markings of "ENG" and "DCT" stamped into the covers.


Step 4.1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
View attachment 10700
Locate the filter cover with the "ENG" markings.
Remove the 3 bolts with a 10mm ratchet.
Carefully remove the Cover, Spring, and Filter. Spring will drop if not cautious.

View attachment 10950
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with new filter in the correct order with the "OUT SIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil.
NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.

View attachment 10951
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "ENG" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 3 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely.
Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgement with a good and tight snug.

Step 4.2 - DCT FILTER REPLACEMENT
View attachment 10699
Locate the filter cover with the "DCT" markings.
Remove the 2 bolts with a 10mm socket.
Remove the Cover, Spring, and Filter. Spring will drop if not cautious.
Trick to removing filter is to stick a small screwdriver into the pressure relief hole as shown.

View attachment 10921
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with new filter in the correct order with the "OUT SIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil.
NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.

View attachment 10922
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "DCT" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 2 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely.
Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgement.
View attachment 10924

Filter comparison Old vs. New, pictured are the filters from initial service oil change.
View attachment 10702

Step 5 - Replacing the OIL:
View attachment 10696
Replace the Oil with the recommended oil.
The Pioneer 1000 (both M3 and M5) require 5.8 Liters (6.1 US qt) of oil to fill after a drain and both filter changes! To refill, place a funnel in the oil filler hole shown in step 1, refill with the required amount of oil.
Tighten the cap once completed.

Step 6 - Checking the Oil
View attachment 10703
Park SxS on level surface, Start and run the engine at idle for 3-5 minuets. Stop the engine and allow to sit for 2 minuets.
Check that the oil is filled properly using the dip stick located:
-- 1000-3: Under cargo bed, behind drivers seat.
-- 1000-5: Under cargo bed, drivers side, rear footwell, under rubber flap.

View attachment 10952
Remove the dip stick and wipe clean. Insert the dip stick into the hole without screwing it in. Remove and check the level by looking for oil between the UPPER and LOWER mark as shown Above. The yellow line is my oil level. Perfect between both marks.

If low, re-do the check. If still low, add oil until the reading is between the UPPER and LOWER marks.
DO NOT OVER FILL!
If between the marks, Install dip stick and hand tighten.
Check all plugs and filters to make sure there are on leaks.

Step 7 - Finishing up
Finally, Re-Install the MudGuard from Step 1 and clean up your work area.
Crank and run the SxS for about 5 minuets.
Check all plugs and filters for leaks.

[maint minder]
Step 8 - Resetting the Maintenance Minder Indicator
View attachment 10953
The Maintenance Minder Indicator will appear in the main display when you have reached a maintenance period suggested by the Honda maintenance schedule.
The wrench will appear in the display at the following periods:

• Initial Maintenance – 100 miles or 20 hours!
  
• Regular Maintenance Interval 1 – 600 miles
  
• Regular Maintenance Interval 2 – 600 miles after interval 1 is performed and reset.

View the full Maintenance Schedule HERE

Resetting it
To reset the Maintenance Minder Indicator:
Place the ignition switch in the off position.
Hold the SEL/SET button on the display down
View attachment 10957
Turn the ignition switch to the on position. Do not crank!
Remain holding the button until the wrench blinks twice, Aprox. 2 seconds.
The Maintenance Minder as well as the maintenance tripmeter and maintenance hourmeter will be reset.
View attachment 10954

Now you are all set and ready to hit the trail.
Good luck and be safe.

Step 9 - Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let us know. Not only does it show its use, it also bumps the post for other members to see and save some $$$ changing there own oil!

If you need further help please post below.
If you see a error, mistake or something out of order please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: We make no claims of accuracy. Please referee to the service manual for official instructions.

Excellent step by step in changing engine oil. But warning when removing engine filter oil runs out of every hole in skid plate. It's a mess so have large towel or mat ready.