P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Oil Change Guide!

[BigT]

Excellent step by step in changing engine oil. But warning when removing engine filter oil runs out of every hole in skid plate. It's a mess so have large towel or mat ready.

How can you avoid this? I had the same issue. I was surprised how much oil was still in there.

 

[Admin]

 

[jstreun]

How can you avoid this? I had the same issue. I was surprised how much oil was still in there.

NOT SURE HOPING SOMEONE WILL CHIME IN. WITH IN SETTING IN THERE ON ITS SIDE I DONT SEE IT BEING RESOLVED. JUST BREAK OUT THE TOWELS.

 

[ghost]

I removed the skid plates.
If I didn't - it would have been much worse.

 

[Plumber101010]

Ok, here I go! Great write up.

 

[Rusty]

Great article, thanks for putting it together. Just got my 1000-5 Friday and love it. This site is very informative I've learned so much already.

 

[500]

This helped some for the crank drain. Shot out and hit the scoop - didn't go over onto the skid.

I piled up paper towels on the skid and frame below the filters, and all in all it wasn't too bad.

 

[Plumber101010]

What's with this procedure to check the oil level?
I was not getting consistent readings so I used a stop watch. Ran it for exactly 5 minutes then turned the engine off and tested at the following times:
1 minute - hit the lower mark on the dip stick
2 minutes - about 2/3 between upper and lower marks
3 minutes - at the top mark
4 minutes - over the top.
WTF... are we supposed to carry a stop watch. Then if its low you have to add a couple ounces and run it again for 5 minutes.

Others may take issue and say it's just good common mechanical sense to do so to be safe.

But call it being tired of checking something I know to be accurate and always was when I used to bother checking it.

If it takes 6.1 quarts of oil with both filters being changed and you KNOW you put in that exact amount of oil and you KNOW it was completely drained properly, I see no point in checking it after.

Fact, I think it leads to over thought and over concern about an ounce here and an ounce there. Mathematically, 6.1 is 6.1 is 6.1. Once 6.1 is installed, why bother checking that 6.1 was installed?

I actually trust the jug marked 1 gallon much more than my dip stick on a vehicle

My truck takes 10 quarts with filter and my containers come in the 2 1/2 gallon version.

Once I fill it, I move on and never check. Because I know for a fact I have 10 quarts in.

I do ALWAYS check later on around every few fill ups just to make sure I don't have a leak or excessive usage. And on the P1000 probably more often till I'm satisfied all is well.

But initially I think it's just time spent for no other reason than its just become an accepted practice on ANY vehicle fluid change.

I'm sure there are horror stories out there about guys who forgot to screw on the oil filter or forgot to tighten the plug and checking it saved their butt before they cranked it, I don't know.

For me? I'm moving on

 

[Plumber101010]

What's with this procedure to check the oil level?
I was not getting consistent readings so I used a stop watch. Ran it for exactly 5 minutes then turned the engine off and tested at the following times:
1 minute - hit the lower mark on the dip stick
2 minutes - about 2/3 between upper and lower marks
3 minutes - at the top mark
4 minutes - over the top.
WTF... are we supposed to carry a stop watch. Then if its low you have to add a couple ounces and run it again for 5 minutes.

I should add since nobody officially answered your question, including me.

But what you described would appear to me to be totally normal. When you first stop the engine, the vast majority of the oil will more or less immediately drain into the pan. 95% of it. But there is still oil left here and there wrapped around the engine that will gradually drip down into the pan over the next few mins.

Waiting a minute will definitely get you in the correct ballpark. But if you TRULY want an accurate reading, go inside and drink a Coke and wait 10 minutes and then come back out and that will be pretty much be 99% of it all in the pan after its all dripped its way down.

Just completed my first change. All filters, all axles, all everything. I just removed the skid plate because it was easier after reading all these horror stories. Also drove it up on my truck ramps. But after draining the oil, I put it in neutral and let it roll down to be more level and I'm glad I did as more oil came out when it had already stopped. It went well and was definitely made more simple by this write up. I brought my iPad out with me and glanced over to give me that little warm feeling in my belly that I was doing it right.

Some of these things are not in the most easily accessible position but I guess when you're converting a motorcycle engine to a UTV that is to be expected.

All and all it went well and the only thing worth adding is I probably should have waited to 100 miles and not 25 hours as the oil look brand-new to me. Clear and crisp. Not the least bit dark. Almost seems like a waste. At the very last second I decided to go ahead and put in the Amsoil so I guess the 6 quarts of oil that the dealer set me as part of the deal will probably just never get used. Anybody's ever in the area they can get some free oil from me

I was a little surprised to see that the drain plugs were not magnetic? That's almost a given. I guess it could be that they are but I would've assumed I would've picked up some very small metal shavings from a new break in engine and did not see anything.

 

[Plumber101010]

Do have a question though. Us plumbers are used to putting everything on tight, supertight. And I'm not really used to dealing with aluminum.

Yes I know I should use a torque wrench but I don't have one and never have used one.

The bolts for the oil filter housing just have that "feel" to them. You know, like without much effort I could keep turning it until it strips as there is no real stopping point!

Should I be worried about this? Does it feel like that because in reality it is like that, if I go too tight it will strip the threading on the inside of the housing and then I'm in for a world of trouble?

Or will it take much more abuse?

 

[ghost]

I used a torque to get it to spec and without it I would have gone tighter.
Yeah - you dont want to put to much pressure on those threads.

As for checking oil - ever other machine I have owned or serviced, I have known exactly where the oil level is compared to where it is supposed to be. I realize it's not hard to keep this in a safe zone, but it's very difficult to monitor oil loss/usage. In my truck I can tell from fill-up to fill-up if the level has gone down in the slightest. This insane method to measure oil level has no excuse.

 

[Plumber101010]

LOL. I agree. Dip sticks have always seemed a little outdated to me and I doubt it's changed much more than it did in the late 1800s with the first automobile!

Truth be told, Ive always believed it just doesn't matter much anyway, a few ounces more or less isn't going to hurt anything

If you had to describe what it felt like with those bolts ghost, how would you describe it? Screw it down till it meets and another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn or very very snug without over tightening zealously?

I used a ratchet and I put them fairly tight. I mean not all My weight behind it kind of tight, but definitely tight. If I wanted to, without going overkill, I could tighten them up another half to three quarters of a turn?

Think that's too tight?

 

[ghost]

LOL. I agree. Dip sticks have always seemed a little outdated to me and I doubt it's changed much more than it did in the late 1800s with the first automobile!

Truth be told, Ive always believed it just doesn't matter much anyway, a few ounces more or less isn't going to hurt anything

If you had to describe what it felt like with those bolts ghost, how would you describe it? Screw it down till it meets and another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn or very very snug without over tightening zealously?

I used a ratchet and I put them fairly tight. I mean not all My weight behind it kind of tight, but definitely tight. If I wanted to, without going overkill, I could tighten them up another half to three quarters of a turn?

Think that's too tight?

Fairly tight is plenty. I think you got it already.

 

[ibleedjohndeeregreen]

Awesome help!!

 

[RANGER1]

thanks for directions great post. just changed oil and both filters, directions was a big help.

 

[Peking_Duck]

Excellent write up...! Did my initial service today, no sweat...actually a lot, 93 degrees today!

 

[Hucker]

Just did my first change. Messiest change, ever! Mandatory to take skids off to do it without a mess...lol. Overall, it was super easy. See you in 600 miles!

I changed the front/rear diffs while I was messy. They were extremely easy. See you in 2 years!

Any grease fittings on this thing? Didn't see any, and haven't consulted the manual yet.

 

[sporttrac4x4]

Just did my first change. Messiest change, ever! Mandatory to take skids off to do it without a mess...lol. Overall, it was super easy. See you in 600 miles!

I changed the front/rear diffs while I was messy. They were extremely easy. See you in 2 years!

Any grease fittings on this thing? Didn't see any, and haven't consulted the manual yet.

Should be 1200 miles on the pioneer 1000.

 

[Hucker]

When I reset the maintenance thingy, it said 600 miles.

 

[sporttrac4x4]

When I reset the maintenance thingy, it said 600 miles.

Yes you reset it twice before oil change on the pioneer 1000

 

[perry]

so has any one check the oil on the stick? when you check the oil after changing it i have to put 10 or so ounces more that it call for. Then it just on the bottom of the stick, put 6 1/2 qt. in it.