First off, great thread, lots of excellent information here, thanks! I took video of my initial service which I'm sure isn't a perfect video, but may offer help to us hands on visual learners that need to be shown how to do things, lol.
First off, great thread, lots of excellent information here, thanks! I took video of my initial service which I'm sure isn't a perfect video, but may offer help to us hands on visual learners that need to be shown how to do things, lol.
Some guys have had an issue with oil getting all over the skid plate. You might try a couple of things that should help alleviate this problem. First, remove the oil fill cap before draining. Then drain the oil pan first before draining the oil tank. This relives some of the pressure that some guys are experiencing that is pushing the oil out of the oil tank plug and getting all over the skid plate.
I think the only way not to have a mess of oil is to take off skid plate .. them oil filters are the messy part.. draining I didn't have oil go on the skids.. it can happen I guess too bad there's not a plate to take off for the oil change and filters
No, you don't have to remove the skid plate. A lot of us have not had a single drop of oil get on the skid plate. It's all about doing it in the correct order. Watch Maineyak's video he posted above. If done right, you shouldn't get anything on the skid. Drain the oil pan first!
No, you don't have to remove the skid plate. A lot of us have not had a single drop of oil get on the skid plate. It's all about doing it in the correct order. Watch Maineyak's video he posted above. If done right, you shouldn't get anything on the skid. Drain the oil pan first!
I'll have to try that next time I did the oil tank first and had lost of oil still in the filters... I did run it to temperature before I drained it though. Don't know if it makes a difference but the oil flows really nice and fast
Thanks for the feedback. I can add all this in tomorrow.
Goal is to help the average Joe. So all those small issues you ran into is great info. If it will save time or trouble it is worth it.
Thanks for the feedback. I can add all this in tomorrow.
Goal is to help the average Joe. So all those small issues you ran into is great info. If it will save time or trouble it is worth it.
That's great I had an idea of what I was going to be doing but once I read up and watched the videos it was so much easier
Lots of good info on this forum! Love it!
Section 4.1 added - *CAUTION* Both filters have a spring between the cover and the filter, be VERY CAREFUL when removing the spring will drop and get lost.
Reversed 3.1 and 3.2 to make oil tank drain be first.
Added video to 2nd post for easy reference for new readers.
The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!
In this thread, we will ONLY be discussing the Engine Oil, Oil Filter, and DCT Filter. ***WARNING - DO NOT DRAIN THE WRONG PLUG!***
Before we start it is important that you locate each drain and be able to tell which one is for what. There are 3 drains and they can be easily mixed up causing you draining the wrong one! View attachment 9436View attachment 10697
Sub Transmission (closest to the front of the SxS)
Engine Oil (middle)
DCT Oil tank (closest to the rear of the SxS)
Supplies needed:
Flat Head Screw Driver or Fender Clip Removal Tool to remove the clips.
12 mm Socket for Engine & DCT drain plugs.
10mm Socket on 1/8" drive ratchet for filter covers.
Honda recommends a Torque wrench.
A Few Rags.
Two Oil Catch Pans.
Funnel with an extended tube to reach into the fill hole. I use a version of this funnel from Walmart, it lets you turn the flow on and off as well as measured calibrations on the side: FloTool Measu-Funnel, 7pc - Walmart.com
Recommended Oil - Pro Honda GN4 10x30, 4-Stroke Motor Oil - Buy Here
6.1 US qt (5.8 liters) after draining, Oil filter and DCT filter change.
6.0 US qt (5.7 liters) after draining and ONLY engine oil filter change.
5.8 US qt (5.5 liters) after drain ONLY!
Both the Owners manual and the Service Manual have a discrepancy with Oil drain with Engine filter change. All are correct at 6.1 for DCT,Engine, and oil drain of 6.1
GETTING STARTED! Step 1 - Prepare the work area and the SxS:
Locate a safe and level spot to park the SxS.
Operate the SxS long enough to warm the engine. Around 5 minutes.
Drive to selected spot.
Insure SxS is in park.
Turn off and remove the key.
Step 2 - Accessing the Oil Fill Cap
Remove the rear mudguard lid under the cargo bed.
Loosen the Remove the Oil Fill Cap to allow faster drain. View attachment 10695View attachment 10694
Step 3 - Drain the Oil: 3.1 - Drain Oil Tank View attachment 10920
Place the a drain pan under the Oil Tank plug (The rear drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm socket. Allow oil to drain.
3.2 - Drain Oil Pan View attachment 10923View attachment 11068
Place a second oil drain pan under the Oil Pan drain plug. (the middle drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm wrench. Note: oil will spurt straight out towards the driver's side edge of the SXS make sure you are clear so you do not get burned by hot oil. Be sure and have the drain pan in position to avoid spillage. Allow oil to drain.
*HINT* Draining the oil tank first will limit the pressure on the pan drain. It is likely you will get oil on the skid plate. Recommend pushing rags around the edge of the skid plate to help limit this.
Allow both to drain simultaneously until finished.
Reinstall both drain plugs with sealing washers.
Note: Honda recommends installing a NEW sealing washer.
Recommend torque specs are 30N.m (3.1 kgf, 22 lbf.ft).
Step 4 - Replacing the Filters: View attachment 10698
Sitting by the rear driver wheel you can see and access both the Oil Filter and DCT Filter. Each is identified with markings of "ENG" and "DCT" stamped into the covers.
Step 4.1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT View attachment 10700
Locate the filter cover with the "ENG" markings.
Remove the 3 bolts with a 10mm ratchet.
*CAUTION* Both filters have a spring between the cover and the filter, be VERY CAREFUL when removing the spring will drop and get lost.
View attachment 10950
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil. NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.
View attachment 10951
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "ENG" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 3 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely. Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgment with a good and tight snug.
Step 4.2 - DCT FILTER REPLACEMENT View attachment 10699
Locate the filter cover with the "DCT" markings.
Remove the 2 bolts with a 10mm socket.
Remove the Cover, Spring, and Filter. Spring will drop if not cautious. The trick to removing filter is to stick a small screwdriver into the pressure relief hole as shown.
View attachment 10921
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil. NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.
View attachment 10922
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "DCT" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 2 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely. Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgement. View attachment 10924
Filter comparison Old vs. New, pictured are the filters from initial service oil change. View attachment 10702
Step 5 - Replacing the OIL: View attachment 10696
Replace the Oil with the recommended oil.
The Pioneer 1000 (both M3 and M5) require 5.8 Liters (6.1 US qt) of oil to fill after a drain and both filter changes! To refill, place a funnel in the oil filler hole shown in step 1, refill with the required amount of oil.
Tighten the cap once completed.
Step 6 - Checking the Oil View attachment 10703
Park SxS on level surface, Start and run the engine at idle for 3-5 minuets. Stop the engine and allow to sit for 2 minuets.
Check that the oil is filled properly using the dip stick located:
-- 1000-3: Under cargo bed, behind the drivers seat.
-- 1000-5: Under cargo bed, drivers side, rear footwell, under the rubber flap.
View attachment 10952
Remove the dip stick and wipe clean. Insert the dip stick into the hole without screwing it in. Remove and check the level by looking for oil between the UPPER and LOWER mark as shown Above. The yellow line is my oil level. Perfect between both marks.
If low, re-do the check. If still low, add oil until the reading is between the UPPER and LOWER marks. DO NOT OVERFILL!
If between the marks, Install dipstick and hand tighten.
Check all plugs and filters to make sure there are on leaks.
Step 7 - Finishing up
Finally, Re-Install the MudGuard from Step 1 and clean up your work area.
Crank and run the SxS for about 5 minutes.
Check all plugs and filters for leaks.
[maint minder] Step 8 - Resetting the Maintenance Minder Indicator View attachment 10953
The Maintenance Minder Indicator will appear in the main display when you have reached a maintenance period suggested by the Honda maintenance schedule.
The wrench will appear in the display at the following periods:
Initial Maintenance – 100 miles or 20 hours!
Regular Maintenance Interval 1 – 600 miles
Regular Maintenance Interval 2 – 600 miles after interval 1 is performed and reset.
Resetting it
To reset the Maintenance Minder Indicator: Place the ignition switch in the off position.
Hold the SEL/SET button on the display down View attachment 10957
Turn the ignition switch to the on position. Do not crank!
Continue holding the button until the wrench blinks twice, Approx. 2 seconds.
The Maintenance Minder as well as the maintenance trip meter and maintenance hour meter will be reset. View attachment 10954
Now you are all set and ready to hit the trail.
Good luck and be safe.
Step 9 - Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let us know. Not only does it show its use, it also bumps the post for other members to see and save some $$$ changing their own oil!
If you need further help please post below.
If you see an error, mistake or something out of order please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: We make no claims of accuracy. Please referee to the service manual for official instructions.
Might want to add a footnote to section "Step 4.2 - DCT FILTER REPLACEMENT" to verify that the rubber gasket on the engine side of the DCT filter comes out with the filter. Mine pulled out of the filter and stayed on the engine. Same thing could happen on the engine oil filter as well, but the fit on mine wasn't as tight as the DCT. It should be pretty obvious if it didn't come out when you go to reassemble as the filter wouldn't seat in far enough to get the cap on, but a note to check might save someone from forcing it and creating a mess.
The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!
In this thread, we will ONLY be discussing the Engine Oil, Oil Filter, and DCT Filter. ***WARNING - DO NOT DRAIN THE WRONG PLUG!***
Before we start it is important that you locate each drain and be able to tell which one is for what. There are 3 drains and they can be easily mixed up causing you draining the wrong one! View attachment 9436View attachment 10697
Sub Transmission (closest to the front of the SxS)
Engine Oil (middle)
DCT Oil tank (closest to the rear of the SxS)
Supplies needed:
Flat Head Screw Driver or Fender Clip Removal Tool to remove the clips.
12 mm Socket for Engine & DCT drain plugs.
10mm Socket on 1/8" drive ratchet for filter covers.
Honda recommends a Torque wrench.
A Few Rags.
Two Oil Catch Pans.
Funnel with an extended tube to reach into the fill hole. I use a version of this funnel from Walmart, it lets you turn the flow on and off as well as measured calibrations on the side: FloTool Measu-Funnel, 7pc - Walmart.com
Recommended Oil - Pro Honda GN4 10x30, 4-Stroke Motor Oil - Buy Here
6.1 US qt (5.8 liters) after draining, Oil filter and DCT filter change.
6.0 US qt (5.7 liters) after draining and ONLY engine oil filter change.
5.8 US qt (5.5 liters) after drain ONLY!
Both the Owners manual and the Service Manual have a discrepancy with Oil drain with Engine filter change. All are correct at 6.1 for DCT,Engine, and oil drain of 6.1
GETTING STARTED! Step 1 - Prepare the work area and the SxS:
Locate a safe and level spot to park the SxS.
Operate the SxS long enough to warm the engine. Around 5 minutes.
Drive to selected spot.
Insure SxS is in park.
Turn off and remove the key.
Step 2 - Accessing the Oil Fill Cap
Remove the rear mudguard lid under the cargo bed.
Loosen the Remove the Oil Fill Cap to allow faster drain. View attachment 10695View attachment 10694
Step 3 - Drain the Oil: 3.1 - Drain Oil Tank View attachment 10920
Place the a drain pan under the Oil Tank plug (The rear drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm socket. Allow oil to drain.
3.2 - Drain Oil Pan View attachment 10923View attachment 11068
Place a second oil drain pan under the Oil Pan drain plug. (the middle drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm wrench. Note: oil will spurt straight out towards the driver's side edge of the SXS make sure you are clear so you do not get burned by hot oil. Be sure and have the drain pan in position to avoid spillage. Allow oil to drain.
*HINT* Draining the oil tank first will limit the pressure on the pan drain. It is likely you will get oil on the skid plate. Recommend pushing rags around the edge of the skid plate to help limit this.
Allow both to drain simultaneously until finished.
Reinstall both drain plugs with sealing washers.
Note: Honda recommends installing a NEW sealing washer.
Recommend torque specs are 30N.m (3.1 kgf, 22 lbf.ft).
Step 4 - Replacing the Filters: View attachment 10698
Sitting by the rear driver wheel you can see and access both the Oil Filter and DCT Filter. Each is identified with markings of "ENG" and "DCT" stamped into the covers.
Step 4.1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT View attachment 10700
Locate the filter cover with the "ENG" markings.
Remove the 3 bolts with a 10mm ratchet.
*CAUTION* Both filters have a spring between the cover and the filter, be VERY CAREFUL when removing the spring will drop and get lost.
View attachment 10950
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil. NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.
View attachment 10951
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "ENG" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 3 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely. Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgment with a good and tight snug.
Step 4.2 - DCT FILTER REPLACEMENT View attachment 10699
Locate the filter cover with the "DCT" markings.
Remove the 2 bolts with a 10mm socket.
Remove the Cover, Spring, and Filter. Spring will drop if not cautious. The trick to removing filter is to stick a small screwdriver into the pressure relief hole as shown.
View attachment 10921
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil. NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.
View attachment 10922
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "DCT" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 2 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely. Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgement. View attachment 10924
Filter comparison Old vs. New, pictured are the filters from initial service oil change. View attachment 10702
Step 5 - Replacing the OIL: View attachment 10696
Replace the Oil with the recommended oil.
The Pioneer 1000 (both M3 and M5) require 5.8 Liters (6.1 US qt) of oil to fill after a drain and both filter changes! To refill, place a funnel in the oil filler hole shown in step 1, refill with the required amount of oil.
Tighten the cap once completed.
Step 6 - Checking the Oil View attachment 10703
Park SxS on level surface, Start and run the engine at idle for 3-5 minuets. Stop the engine and allow to sit for 2 minuets.
Check that the oil is filled properly using the dip stick located:
-- 1000-3: Under cargo bed, behind the drivers seat.
-- 1000-5: Under cargo bed, drivers side, rear footwell, under the rubber flap.
View attachment 10952
Remove the dip stick and wipe clean. Insert the dip stick into the hole without screwing it in. Remove and check the level by looking for oil between the UPPER and LOWER mark as shown Above. The yellow line is my oil level. Perfect between both marks.
If low, re-do the check. If still low, add oil until the reading is between the UPPER and LOWER marks. DO NOT OVERFILL!
If between the marks, Install dipstick and hand tighten.
Check all plugs and filters to make sure there are on leaks.
Step 7 - Finishing up
Finally, Re-Install the MudGuard from Step 1 and clean up your work area.
Crank and run the SxS for about 5 minutes.
Check all plugs and filters for leaks.
[maint minder] Step 8 - Resetting the Maintenance Minder Indicator View attachment 10953
The Maintenance Minder Indicator will appear in the main display when you have reached a maintenance period suggested by the Honda maintenance schedule.
The wrench will appear in the display at the following periods:
Initial Maintenance – 100 miles or 20 hours!
Regular Maintenance Interval 1 – 600 miles
Regular Maintenance Interval 2 – 600 miles after interval 1 is performed and reset.
Resetting it
To reset the Maintenance Minder Indicator: Place the ignition switch in the off position.
Hold the SEL/SET button on the display down View attachment 10957
Turn the ignition switch to the on position. Do not crank!
Continue holding the button until the wrench blinks twice, Approx. 2 seconds.
The Maintenance Minder as well as the maintenance trip meter and maintenance hour meter will be reset. View attachment 10954
Now you are all set and ready to hit the trail.
Good luck and be safe.
Step 9 - Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let us know. Not only does it show its use, it also bumps the post for other members to see and save some $$$ changing their own oil!
If you need further help please post below.
If you see an error, mistake or something out of order please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: We make no claims of accuracy. Please referee to the service manual for official instructions.
Just found this forum a couple weeks ago. Way impressed with the great "how to" guides, links for parts and advice on add-on's! Thanks. First oil change with your guide and help from this little girl.
Excellent news @kdgtrapper.
Welcome to the club and thanks for the feedback.
Its nowhere near perfect but if it saved you some time and $$$ then that's exactly why we built it.
@lrandy129
I'll look into your suggestion right now. Thanks.
Thanks for this walk-through. I used it myself. Lol. Changed mine tonight.
Thought the filters were a little dark. But I have been having some alpha clutch high revs. I think we know whats coming with that.
