Scoop
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Hondasxs
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Instruction attached
or online link -- > https://dreamshop.honda.com/psp/documentum/MW01/0SS27-HL6-A10.pdf
or online link -- > https://dreamshop.honda.com/psp/documentum/MW01/0SS27-HL6-A10.pdf
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Good find.
A couple years ago I contemplated using one of those for all of my electrical connections such as light bar, mirror lights, stereo and whips. Instead I used those exact 2 lower mounting holes to mount a 4 relay/fuse panel.
I looked forever when I first got my Talon trying to figure out exactly how the bus bar mounted.
Rand
A couple years ago I contemplated using one of those for all of my electrical connections such as light bar, mirror lights, stereo and whips. Instead I used those exact 2 lower mounting holes to mount a 4 relay/fuse panel.
I looked forever when I first got my Talon trying to figure out exactly how the bus bar mounted.
Rand
Scoop
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I'm a big fan of the Auxbeam 8 gang boxes. Easy to install and way easy to add new accessories down the road. My 3D printed mount for the control head makes it look factory.
One thing. It's pretty easy to remove the Upper Dash, which provides full access to the Bus Bar location.
I put down a deposit, over the phone, for the Talon after wife found it by calling around three states...
She said: "Now, choose the Honda accessories you want and have the info with you when we go pay for it."
My list included the S&B Particle Separator and the Honda/Warn winch. Both required the Honda Fuse Box and
the Bus Bar.
They were installed by a Dealer Service Tech. So this is why I "chose" them.
I like the fact that the Bus Bar is designed to have the winch Contactor mounted on the right end of it. Then three
(+) and three (-) posts on it.
The Red (+) cable running from the battery enclosure to the Bus Bar location is the power source. A ground wire needs to be run from the Bus Bar to a shiny metal frame location.
Dealer ran a Ground (-) cable from the Bus Bar to this location, just above the overflow bottle:
I have added a Blue Sea Systems fuse block to provide for "always Hot" accessories. That's another story.
Pirate
I put down a deposit, over the phone, for the Talon after wife found it by calling around three states...
She said: "Now, choose the Honda accessories you want and have the info with you when we go pay for it."
My list included the S&B Particle Separator and the Honda/Warn winch. Both required the Honda Fuse Box and
the Bus Bar.
They were installed by a Dealer Service Tech. So this is why I "chose" them.
I like the fact that the Bus Bar is designed to have the winch Contactor mounted on the right end of it. Then three
(+) and three (-) posts on it.
The Red (+) cable running from the battery enclosure to the Bus Bar location is the power source. A ground wire needs to be run from the Bus Bar to a shiny metal frame location.
Dealer ran a Ground (-) cable from the Bus Bar to this location, just above the overflow bottle:
I have added a Blue Sea Systems fuse block to provide for "always Hot" accessories. That's another story.
Pirate
CID
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While this is beautifully done,
it eliminates the possibility of two popular aftermarket accessories - 1. Easy second battery installation. I don't care for this kit because batteries don't like heat and this kit puts it directly behind the radiator, but it is popular. 2. The EMP under hood storage compartment, where I keep my kinetic rope, soft shackles, and tree saver strap. Be sure to drill a hole or two in the bottom or it'll fill with water. DAMHIK
it eliminates the possibility of two popular aftermarket accessories - 1. Easy second battery installation. I don't care for this kit because batteries don't like heat and this kit puts it directly behind the radiator, but it is popular. 2. The EMP under hood storage compartment, where I keep my kinetic rope, soft shackles, and tree saver strap. Be sure to drill a hole or two in the bottom or it'll fill with water. DAMHIK
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This is why my big 'ol second battery is mounted in the foot well of the passenger side rear set.
With the Tusk rear seat bed plates installed, the footwell is covered, so a perfect place for the NAPA Deep Cycle battery.
On the Tusk plates will be a good size, custom built aluminum cargo box. Add in the Honda Cargo box...nothing will be exposed to dust and water this time around!
Pirate
With the Tusk rear seat bed plates installed, the footwell is covered, so a perfect place for the NAPA Deep Cycle battery.
On the Tusk plates will be a good size, custom built aluminum cargo box. Add in the Honda Cargo box...nothing will be exposed to dust and water this time around!
Pirate
Omg - he doesn’t have the second battery the same age, style, type, manufacturer - it will now only last for the life of the machine
Yes, but I bought the battery to start a 1947 Austin-Western grader and get it on the lowboy. Brought it home, parked on the lower 40 as yard art and removed the battery.
So, might as well put it to use.
Pirate
So, might as well put it to use.
Pirate
Haven't had time to spend on this post. But,
I've installed a TRUE Battery Isolator between the two batteries. This will/should keep both batteries charged will the engine is running. But what about when it's parked, overnight or for a few weeks?
I really like the NOCO Battery Maintainer. It has a display on the front to tell you what it's doing. Much better than the old Battery Tender.
Does one then connect the NOCO to the OEM battery and it should charge the second battery? How will that work, I dunno.
So I did a little research and found that NOCO makes Battery Maintainer that charges and maintains two batteries.
It's the NOCO genius GEN 5x2. The five is for five amp charging capability. The two is for two batteries.
Here's mine after installation:
Both are mounted to the back of the cab, behind the Driver side rear seat. Note: I've removed the rear seats as part of converting the back seat area to a cargo area. The two batteries are kept fully charged when the NOCO is plugged in.
Thus, I'm able to keep both batteries charged whether riding or not.
Pirate
I've installed a TRUE Battery Isolator between the two batteries. This will/should keep both batteries charged will the engine is running. But what about when it's parked, overnight or for a few weeks?
I really like the NOCO Battery Maintainer. It has a display on the front to tell you what it's doing. Much better than the old Battery Tender.
Does one then connect the NOCO to the OEM battery and it should charge the second battery? How will that work, I dunno.
So I did a little research and found that NOCO makes Battery Maintainer that charges and maintains two batteries.
It's the NOCO genius GEN 5x2. The five is for five amp charging capability. The two is for two batteries.
Here's mine after installation:
Both are mounted to the back of the cab, behind the Driver side rear seat. Note: I've removed the rear seats as part of converting the back seat area to a cargo area. The two batteries are kept fully charged when the NOCO is plugged in.
Thus, I'm able to keep both batteries charged whether riding or not.
Pirate
CID
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Neat setup, Pirate. 👍
For the curious, you can hook a battery charger/tender to either battery if you're running a True Isolator. Once the battery that you're hooked to reaches 13.x volts, the isolator will connect the two batteries, charging both from that point on. IOW - the True Isolator is ambidextrous and will work both ways.
What it won't do is give you the condition of both batteries like Pirate's setup does.
Maybe @Hondasxs (or anyone who knows) can tell us (me) what that switching voltage is, I forgot. 😢
For the curious, you can hook a battery charger/tender to either battery if you're running a True Isolator. Once the battery that you're hooked to reaches 13.x volts, the isolator will connect the two batteries, charging both from that point on. IOW - the True Isolator is ambidextrous and will work both ways.
What it won't do is give you the condition of both batteries like Pirate's setup does.
Maybe @Hondasxs (or anyone who knows) can tell us (me) what that switching voltage is, I forgot. 😢
Scoop
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I asked them back in JAN 2022:
P1000 - SOLVED! Isolator Not Shutting Off (Down to 12.6 volts)
I know this question has been asked a bunch, but in MY case, the light was shutting off after dropping below 13 volts. After I had someone install a KFI winch, the light stays on all the time and I'm now down to 12.6 volts on both batteries. I've checked the isolator wiring and it appears to...
hondasxs.com
CID
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Thanks, Scoop. 👍I asked them back in JAN 2022:
P1000 - SOLVED! Isolator Not Shutting Off (Down to 12.6 volts)
I know this question has been asked a bunch, but in MY case, the light was shutting off after dropping below 13 volts. After I had someone install a KFI winch, the light stays on all the time and I'm now down to 12.6 volts on both batteries. I've checked the isolator wiring and it appears to...
CID,
That was my reasoning for the dual NOCO. After a hard day of riding and using both batteries...I don't have to wait for Battery 1 to be fully charged before Battery 2 begins charging. Probably doesn't amount to much. But I did it anyway.
Pirate
That was my reasoning for the dual NOCO. After a hard day of riding and using both batteries...I don't have to wait for Battery 1 to be fully charged before Battery 2 begins charging. Probably doesn't amount to much. But I did it anyway.
Pirate
Scoop
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After a hard day of *riding*, battery 1 will already be fully charged provided that your charging system and battery are in good shape
The main reason people use isolators is to avoid a drained primary due to extended use of things like winches (inc. plowing) or running radios and lights when the vehicle isn't running.
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