P1000 SOLVED! Isolator Not Shutting Off (Down to 12.6 volts)

[Nvrgiveup]

I know this question has been asked a bunch, but in MY case, the light was shutting off after dropping below 13 volts. After I had someone install a KFI winch, the light stays on all the time and I'm now down to 12.6 volts on both batteries. I've checked the isolator wiring and it appears to be in order.
Has anyone else had this happen and what was your discovery? I can only assume it's something to do with the winch install. The winch is connected directly to the auxiliary battery and the contactor is wired to the auxiliary fuse panel with a 10A fuse.

NOTE: I used the search function but couldn't find an answer for this particular question.

UPDATE FOR THOSE USING SEARCH FUNCTION: It appears it was a stuck relay. Battery tender hooked up all day until VM read well above 13v, started machine and let it run a little bit. Turned off power and used the winch a little bit to draw voltage down. Light on isolator went off to indicate the batteries were now working independently of one another.

 

[Admin]

 

[Remington]

Did u disconnect the winch and dose it do the same thing?
if so, your relay is sticking. Could be a coincidence or like you said your winch. Process of elimination
work smarter not harder.

Your right, you’ll not find your particular situation in the search.
but kudos for your trying.

 

[CID]

@Hondasxs Any idears?

 

[Neohio]

Use the winch for a few seconds to load the battery and drain it. see if the light goes out.

 

[JMynes]

Mine did the same thing. I charged with my Battery Tender overnight. Battery tender pigtailed direct to main battery. The blue light was on while charging, as expected.
The next morning I unplugged the charger from the pigtail. Blue light stayed on, as expected.
Occasional trips into the garage during the day, and the blue light was still on. Okay, maybe my aux battery isn’t as tired as I thought it was.
The next morning the blue light was still on, unexpected. I turned on the key and headlights, the blue light went out in about 3 seconds. Shut off the lights and key.
I didn’t take any voltage readings, but on other occasions the blue light did not stay on for more than an hour or so.
I’m thinking the relay was stuck due to being energized all night in the cold. I guess we’ll see if it happens again.

 

[Nvrgiveup]

Mine did the same thing. I charged with my Battery Tender overnight. Battery tender pigtailed direct to main battery. The blue light was on while charging, as expected.
The next morning I unplugged the charger from the pigtail. Blue light stayed on, as expected.
Occasional trips into the garage during the day, and the blue light was still on. Okay, maybe my aux battery isn’t as tired as I thought it was.
The next morning the blue light was still on, unexpected. I turned on the key and headlights, the blue light went out in about 3 seconds. Shut off the lights and key.
I didn’t take any voltage readings, but on other occasions the blue light did not stay on for more than an hour or so.
I’m thinking the relay was stuck due to being energized all night in the cold. I guess we’ll see if it happens again.

Well, I plugged in the Battery Tender before I left the house this morning to see if the VM relay had gotten stuck, so at least I'm thinking along the correct lines, I reckon. It appears everything is wired correctly. The winch is direct to the aux batty and the plugin controller for the hand-held winch operation cord is going to the aux fuse block. I will pull the switch panel this evening and ensure the VM relay and rocker switch for the winch are connected properly.
I can't see where anything should be contributing to a parasitic draw, but the jury is still deliberating!

 

[Hondasxs]

@Hondasxs Any idears?

Don't see adding a winch effecting anything in regards to isolator workings.

You could look into the key-on only alternate method to wire it up using the spare ground wire from the volt meter relay. This would disconnect both batteries at higher voltages and let them fall to reseing voltage independently. Blue light goes off when key.
This would effect any trickle charging and you would need to charge both separately.

TRUEAM Isolator Alternate KEY-ON ONLY wiring method!

Here is an alternate wiring method for the TrueAm Isolator. This uses the spare ground trigger as a control point for the Isolator. Meaning, when the key is off... so will be the isolator. THE CHANGE... Look you will see we re-located the small black ground wire to the spare green (ground)...

hondasxs.com

I can only assume the specs/readings may be off a little.
One easy test would be to disconnect the second battery at the isolator. leave the volt meter hooked up on both sides.
Run it until blue light comes on then let it fall to resting voltage and see what it does.

 

[BrotherNov]

Use the winch for a few seconds to load the battery and drain it. see if the light goes out.

I was under the impression it worked opposite of that, i.e. - when the blue light is on your tender is charging the aux battery and when the main battery drops below a certain voltage the light goes off and the main battery gets the charge.

I've tested this before because I was concerned that every time I check the blue light is on. But if I turn on the headlights the light tuns off within a minute or so.

 

[Hondasxs]

I was under the impression it worked opposite of that, i.e. - when the blue light is on your tender is charging the aux battery and when the main battery drops below a certain voltage the light goes off and the main battery gets the charge.

I've tested this before because I was concerned that every time I check the blue light is on. But if I turn on the headlights the light tuns off within a minute or so.

The isolator monitors both batteries.
If one (either) is in overcharge of 13.5+- (for 8 seconds +-) it comes on (blue light on)
At that point it stays on (blue light) until both drop to the resting voltage around 12.7+-
If both are at resting voltage, it will turn off (blue light off).

Using the winch, or headlights for a short time will pull it down to resting voltage faster thus disconnecting the isolator (blue light off).

Trickle charger work in similar fashion at different cut on/off points.

 

[Nvrgiveup]

It appears it was a stuck relay. I updated the original post with that info to hopefully help someone who used the search function to find answers to a similar problem.

 

[bumperm]

It appears it was a stuck relay. I updated the original post with that info to hopefully help someone who used the search function to find answers to a similar problem.

Did you get it "unstuck" by tapping it with screwdriver etc.? Or did True diagnose your symptoms? Or . . .?

 

[Neohio]

It appears it was a stuck relay. I updated the original post with that info to hopefully help someone who used the search function to find answers to a similar problem.

You are saying "stuck relay".....
Which relay was stuck?
Which component are you referring to as a stuck relay?

 

[Ericthered]

My 2017 was doing the same thing. Parasitic drain. True Isolator stayed on all the time. I finally put spin style disconnects on both batteries. Only connect while on charger or on trips, plus it's a great theft device. Factory told me it is supposed to operate that way. I don't want dead batteries, so old school over-rides damn electronics.

 

[Scoop]

If one (either) is in overcharge of 13.5+- (for 8 seconds +-) it comes on (blue light on)
At that point it stays on (blue light) until both drop to the resting voltage around 12.7+-

FYI: I emailed Tru Amalgamated Inc back in JAN. They told me, for the UTV-SBI-18 isolator, the cut in threshold was 13.6V and the cut out threshold was 12.9V.