Talon Honda Talon Shift Problem, Pioneer 1000 too.

[MFG]

Final prototype done. Final fit and testing to take place over the next week. Design will be finalized after testing.

$30 shipped in the 48 states. Hawaii, Alaska and Canada upon request and will be a few dollars more depending on shipping cost.

These take 16 hours each to print so if you want one, PM me and I will place you in line first come, first served...

View attachment 185001

Would you consider modifying the gate so there would only be a small indention or no indention between low and high. That really helps on the trail when you shift back and forth between low and high a bunch. I like my aftermarket shift gate that I have now but it does not have the shifter movement yours does. If you can modify yours a little count me in as a customer. This is the gate I have now.

 

[Admin]

 

[PaulF]

Would you consider modifying the gate so there would only be a small indention or no indention between low and high. That really helps on the trail when you shift back and forth between low and high a bunch. I like my aftermarket shift gate that I have now but it does not have the shifter movement yours does. If you can modify yours a little count me in as a customer. This is the gate I have now.

Probably not, that would defeat the purpose. The extra throw is only a part of the "fix", the modified gate area for low does 2 very vital things...

1. it makes sure the lever is back far enough before it allows you to move it left. This provides a positive engagement without having to look or wiggle.
2. If the gears are not fully meshed (common issue when cold) then the gate puts a little preload on the cable/shift dogs and when you start to move the machine, it forces the gears to fully mesh. This helps eliminate the ""Bang" problem.

However, i "might" consider something like this. It will allow quick shifts between R and H and a semi quick H to L shift and still maintain the extra throw and badly needed modified Low gate (pardon the bad paint edit ). I would have to put a mark on it where Neutral is so you could properly adjust the cable...

Or do this but I think this look odd...

 

[MFG]

Il

Probably not, that would defeat the purpose. The extra throw is only a part of the "fix", the modified gate area for low does 2 very vital things...

1. it makes sure the lever is back far enough before it allows you to move it left. This provides a positive engagement without having to look or wiggle.
2. If the gears are not fully meshed (common issue when cold) then the gate puts a little preload on the cable/shift dogs and when you start to move the machine, it forces the gears to fully mesh. This helps eliminate the ""Bang" problem.

However, i "might" consider something like this. It will allow quick shifts between R and H and a semi quick H to L shift and still maintain the extra throw and badly needed modified Low gate (pardon the bad paint edit ). I would have to put a mark on it where Neutral is so you could properly adjust the cable...

View attachment 186327

Or do this but I think this look odd...

View attachment 186328

l take one of the top ones. Send me a P.M. for you PayPal and I will send you some money and give you review when installed. I like my metal one but you have to be careful when you engage low.

 

[PaulF]

Il

l take one of the top ones. Send me a P.M. for you PayPal and I will send you some money and give you review when installed. I like my metal one but you have to be careful when you engage low.

You are in line. As soon as final testing is done, I will start production on them.

If all goes well, should start shipping the first ones by the end of this week.

 

[MFG]

You are in line. As soon as final testing is done, I will start production on them.

If all goes well, should start shipping the first ones by the end of this week.

Thank you sir.

 

[hondabob]

I had to run in 35 miles of sand wash. I had to back up several times. The stage 3 shift gate worked perfect. The about 8mm over shift gets it into low every time. When it is fully into low it will slide into the shift gate without any forward preload. I will be testing the cold start shifting every morning. The California shift gate without any shift gates may not get warranty coverage if there is gear damage.

 

[hondabob]

The stage 3 shift gate worked perfect today. No problem getting into low gear and the over shift is a little more then needed. We had 6 Talons on the ride today. None of them had the shift problem on cold start although 5 have had the shift bang. Some in low and some in reverse. They know how to avoid it now with the shift gate wiggle and couldn't be happier.

 

[PaulF]

With input from the testers (thanks hondabab and a couple others not on these forums) and the community (thanks MFG), I have made the final minor adjustments and added the "Semi-Quick" version to the offering. The OEM style version is a go!!!

Preliminary testing around the neighborhood with the Semi-Quick version tells me it will work and allow for easier "no-look" shifting. It will get final tested this weekend by me as I will be doing some rock crawling and a lot of R-H, H-L and R-L shifts to make sure the gates are correctly positioned.

After this initial batch has shipped, I will start a new thread offering more.

Everyone that has PM'd me, please respond back to your PM and indicate which version you prefer.

BE FOREWARNED:
I have been told by those in the know that Honda will most likely refuse any Sub-Trans warranty claims if a Non-OEM shift gate is used, this would include both versions I offer or any of the other shift gates on the market . Anyone installing either of these 2 versions I am offering (even the modified OEM style one) will be required to review (and possibly sign) an acknowledgment/waiver.

The Semi-Quick version turned out like this...

 

[popeye]

Isn't easy to just grind out the slot a half of inch more so there will be no problem instead of keep driving it

Your absolutely right, but for a 19k machine to have a design flaw, I’m not gonna be the guy who modifies it to have warranty be denied. Been around long enough, seen enough over the years. They will come up with there fix. I don’t want to be stuck with having to pay for the parts to rebuild the subtrans from my wallet. Had the dealer adjust my cable, it documented now. This is no different than the water intake, the clutch recall, or the intake hose clamps of the pioneer. Be mindful of what your doing, don’t destroy your rig. Honda will take care of the first year model issues

 

[Adam490]

@PaulF - Those prints look great! What printer are you using if you don't mind me asking?

 

[Jefferson87]

Your absolutely right, but for a 19k machine to have a design flaw, I’m not gonna be the guy who modifies it to have warranty be denied. Been around long enough, seen enough over the years. They will come up with there fix. I don’t want to be stuck with having to pay for the parts to rebuild the subtrans from my wallet. Had the dealer adjust my cable, it documented now. This is no different than the water intake, the clutch recall, or the intake hose clamps of the pioneer. Be mindful of what your doing, don’t destroy your rig. Honda will take care of the first year model issues

So far its not the case. They denied mine for the 32s and are telling most people that they aren't coming to a complete stop.

 

[jamesh]

Your absolutely right, but for a 19k machine to have a design flaw, I’m not gonna be the guy who modifies it to have warranty be denied. Been around long enough, seen enough over the years. They will come up with there fix. I don’t want to be stuck with having to pay for the parts to rebuild the subtrans from my wallet. Had the dealer adjust my cable, it documented now. This is no different than the water intake, the clutch recall, or the intake hose clamps of the pioneer. Be mindful of what your doing, don’t destroy your rig. Honda will take care of the first year model issues

If I get failure that merits taking it to the shop, I'll swap in the stock shift gate. I didn't buy an extended warranty, so chances of needing to do that are slim anyways. I accept that this is a very expensive machine that will break and have problems like a dirt bike, not be reliable like a street driven Honda Civic of similar price. I'm sure a Honda Civic would have some issues if I drove it like I drive my Talon too...

 

[PaulF]

@PaulF - Those prints look great! What printer are you using if you don't mind me asking?

Creality Ender-3.

 

[jamesh]

Beware of aftermarket shift gates. Just compared mine to stock and it has significantly less low gear throw. CA gate shift is out. Looking forward to seeing how it does w

ith stock gate back on. Sorry for the shadows.

 

[906UP]

If I get failure that merits taking it to the shop, I'll swap in the stock shift gate. I didn't buy an extended warranty, so chances of needing to do that are slim anyways. I accept that this is a very expensive machine that will break and have problems like a dirt bike, not be reliable like a street driven Honda Civic of similar price. I'm sure a Honda Civic would have some issues if I drove it like I drive my Talon too...

This ^^^^^

I didn't buy an extended warranty either, sh*t happens. If it breaks I'll be the one to tear it apart, repair it and hopefully make improvements so it doesnt happen again.

 

[CMB]

The more I lurk and read these threads and different issues people are seeing is convincing me to get the extended warranty. I'm pretty sure I could probably fix any issue that would happen, exclusion to wiring. Being raised on how to figure it out for yourself is really helping me now having the want too to fix it myself. would be much better for Honda to pay for parts

 

[jamesh]

The more I lurk and read these threads and different issues people are seeing is convincing me to get the extended warranty. I'm pretty sure I could probably fix any issue that would happen, exclusion to wiring. Being raised on how to figure it out for yourself is really helping me now having the want too to fix it myself. would be much better for Honda to pay for parts

Warranties are not statistically a good "investment". Most repair costs covered by warranty cost less than the warranty. If that was not true, nobody would sell them. But I get the desire.

 

[hondabob]

Fortunately the forum guys know how to deal with the shifting issue. I'm close to 11,000 miles now. Mine works great and I'm careful until it warms up a bit. We have to stop to shift and its just takes an instant to wiggle the shifter. I'm getting the 3 year Honda warranty but more to help me sell it with 20,000 miles. I will have at least 2 years of warranty left. My high mileage RZR buddies have to have the extended warranty. The 2019 RZR Turbo is at 13,000 miles and over 3 months in the shop with a cost of over $9,000. The 2018 RZR 1000 with 11,000 miles is over $10,000. They are pissed with all the down time and getting towed out plus my Hondas haven't broke down. My 2016 pioneer 1000 had 19,000 miles when I sold it and $40 in repair parts. My buddy should have 30,000 miles on it this year.

 

[CID]

Fortunately the forum guys know how to deal with the shifting issue. I'm close to 11,000 miles now. Mine works great and I'm careful until it warms up a bit. We have to stop to shift and its just takes an instant to wiggle the shifter. I'm getting the 3 year Honda warranty but more to help me sell it with 20,000 miles. I will have at least 2 years of warranty left. My high mileage RZR buddies have to have the extended warranty. The 2019 RZR Turbo is at 13,000 miles and over 3 months in the shop with a cost of over $9,000. The 2018 RZR 1000 with 11,000 miles is over $10,000. They are pissed with all the down time and getting towed out plus my Hondas haven't broke down. My 2016 pioneer 1000 had 19,000 miles when I sold it and $40 in repair parts. My buddy should have 30,000 miles on it this year.

Sorry for the off topic question - Have you compared the YXZ to the Talon anywhere (link)? The dealer I've bought almost all of my toys through for 50 years doesn't sell Honda and I wanted the dual range 6 speed. Yamaha has been chasing the transmission gearing, trying to get it right with almost yearly changes (?). At the SxS rally in Hurricane, UT, the Yamaha sales rep was very proud of the 'ride it like ya stole it' engineering but I'm retired and don't do that (much) anymore. I also saw a couple of rock crawling videos where the YXZ would suddenly light up the tires when it came up on the cam - not something I want at this time in my life. fwiw: I already bought a Talon, just curious about the YXZ comparison since you've 'crossed over'.

 

[hondabob]

I still have my 2016 YXZ. I installed a heavy flywheel and 26 inch tires. I drive it above 10 mph to avoid slipping the clutch and sometimes use 2WD so I can slip the rear wheels. It does well and the 2019 has much better low gearing. It is such a PITA to service or repair. That alone is a deal breaker. Yamaha will have 2 new UTV's in June and they should be much better. 3,000 rpm is ok for easy stuff but 4,000 is needed for more difficult riding. The Talon is so good its hard to buy anything else, I'm at 11,000 miles now. My RZR buddies are pissed about all the repair and shop time and my Honda just keeps on running great.