P1000 i am in debate on taking the high lifter lift kit off

jeremysj71

jeremysj71

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Help me decided what to do . i have deluxe wheels with pit bull rockers stock size .really dont wanna spend more money on wheels and tires. i like the ground clearance but its tippy. dont like the camber being off with the lift. so will a arms help this with leaving the lift on? Will shocks help? Thanks for your replys .
 
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Plumber32

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Help me decided what to do . i have deluxe wheels with pit bull rockers stock size .really dont wanna spend more money on wheels and tires. i like the ground clearance but its tippy. dont like the camber being off with the lift. so will a arms help this with leaving the lift on? Will shocks help? Thanks for your replys .
Shocks will help., super atv a arms will let you adjust the camber,
 
CumminsPusher

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A arms will help as mentioned above. I started with spacers and that did actually help the stability and I believe so did just the lift however it had a little body roll.
Have now taken the lift out and using superatv a-arms and fox shocks, couldn’t be happier. I personally like how the shocks work and feel without the lift and I feel better about the angle of the drive shafts. Seen so many twisted axles I feel this is a part of the problem.
Everyone likes a little different setup though.
 
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drfubar

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It also depends on how you drive. If you're balls to the wall most of the time, yes it's going to feel top heavy with body roll. I run my shocks on soft because I get a lot more feel crawling / climbing but I'm not into riding gravel flat trails. My setup works well for me.
 
ohanacreek

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A arms will help as mentioned above. I started with spacers and that did actually help the stability and I believe so did just the lift however it had a little body roll.
Have now taken the lift out and using superatv a-arms and fox shocks, couldn’t be happier. I personally like how the shocks work and feel without the lift and I feel better about the angle of the drive shafts. Seen so many twisted axles I feel this is a part of the problem.
Everyone likes a little different setup though.

It also depends on how you drive. If you're balls to the wall most of the time, yes it's going to feel top heavy with body roll. I run my shocks on soft because I get a lot more feel crawling / climbing but I'm not into riding gravel flat trails. My setup works well for me.

My riding style is in between these guys, I’m not a mudder I like hard technical trails, I probably ride a little harder than @drfubar but nowhere near as hard and fast as @CumminsPusher.

I had a big lift on my 700, a heavy stereo at roof level, lightbar up high, heavy spare tire carrier with tools, and hard mid panel. It was as top heavy as Dolly Parton. It was tipsy on anything off camber but I sold it before I decided to redo it.

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584c1cab2909f726bbb8a7cedb5c2c38
15d15acc51400398e7f9af90cbfa31864b551e6de1c026bab05f72dee3d2835b

On my 1000 I decided I wanted to keep her more stable. There’s MORE suspension travel so that’s a major benefit if you’re crawling over rough terrain. I have accessories but that are all mounted as low as possible or are MUCH lighter than what was on my 700. It’s still heavier than most because off all the adds but it’s all low. All that weight made her squat with factory shocks. I added the SATV arms , pulled the sway bar, and added Fox shocks and I brought it back to factory ride height with the Fox(with stock tires before I put my Evos on). There is some body roll but with all the weight low. It’s minimal. With the glass windshield and wiper kit installed it’s more but not significantly more. Removing the sway bar really helps stability(keeps the machine more level) on slow sections of very rough uneven terrain. I tried driving it HARD on flat even ground to see how bad the body roll would be with out it. I couldn’t really tell a difference at any speed a “reasonably” sane person would be driving. I feel like the sway bar is more of a CYA for Honda when some asshat decides to try a power slide at 67mph or is driving beyond their abilities at much too high of a speed.

I leave the Fox on the softest setting for 95% of my riding it lets it crawl over rocks and off camber trails easily, going a little faster the ride is like a Cadillac it’s feels like your floating over trail that would feel rough with stock shocks. If i know I’m going to be running faster on rough trail I’ll bump them to the middle setting which is 4.999% of my riding. The hardest setting is really reserved for ROUGH TRAIL at speed and jumps. I have tried them once to see how well that absorbed a somewhat small leap(it is near 2000lbs I’m launching into the air so I try not to do that) and they soaked it up like a champ didn’t even bottom out.

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6394c89cc11837f2020af0346705399d
3632c2187f850c001bc208ddf38f3929

In all of these all 4 tires are making contact with the ground. With the sway bar connected it wouldn’t do it. A rear tire always started to lift and it’d feel unstable.
 
Dragon21

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I just added Super ATV a arms in the front. I plan to do the rears at some point. Will also be doing fox shocks all the way around. I think when i get to that point i may remove the lift. I also removed the sway bar and had the same feeling that @ohanacreek creek did. Feels much more stable in off-camber trails and even higher speed WV mountain back roads i never got to a point it felt like too much body roll. Ive also added offset wheels and spacers to widen my stance and help with stability. Im sure ill end up on my side at some point, but wont do it as easy as my 700 did.

My 700-4 was very tippy, enough so it did tip, way too easy. But it was taller with a narrower wheelbase. I learned from that to keep as much of the accessories low as well.
 
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jeremysj71

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It also depends on how you drive. If you're balls to the wall most of the time, yes it's going to feel top heavy with body roll. I run my shocks on soft because I get a lot more feel crawling / climbing but I'm not into riding gravel flat trails. My setup works well for me.
Not so much balls to the wall, Do more rock crawling than anything . I thought about spacers but thats more weight these pit bull rockers are heavy.
 
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jeremysj71

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Which a arms to go with pro and cons? i think i have decided to take the lift off, i have been on my side once since the lift
 
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CumminsPusher

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Which a arms to go with pro and cons? i think i have decided to take the lift off, i have been on my side once since the lift
SuperAtv. Not really any negative if no lift. But if lifted I’d run the supplied steering stops (which limit turning ability) because the a-arms are forward a bit and between that and the lift the axle is in more bind especially while turning in diff lock, yards axles out.
They give you more clearance without lift which is awesome. Adjustable, stronger, lifetime warranty, slightly more stability ...
 
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BigOL3

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My riding style is in between these guys, I’m not a mudder I like hard technical trails, I probably ride a little harder than @drfubar but nowhere near as hard and fast as @CumminsPusher.

I had a big lift on my 700, a heavy stereo at roof level, lightbar up high, heavy spare tire carrier with tools, and hard mid panel. It was as top heavy as Dolly Parton. It was tipsy on anything off camber but I sold it before I decided to redo it.


On my 1000 I decided I wanted to keep her more stable. There’s MORE suspension travel so that’s a major benefit if you’re crawling over rough terrain. I have accessories but that are all mounted as low as possible or are MUCH lighter than what was on my 700. It’s still heavier than most because off all the adds but it’s all low. All that weight made her squat with factory shocks. I added the SATV arms , pulled the sway bar, and added Fox shocks and I brought it back to factory ride height with the Fox(with stock tires before I put my Evos on). There is some body roll but with all the weight low. It’s minimal. With the glass windshield and wiper kit installed it’s more but not significantly more. Removing the sway bar really helps stability(keeps the machine more level) on slow sections of very rough uneven terrain. I tried driving it HARD on flat even ground to see how bad the body roll would be with out it. I couldn’t really tell a difference at any speed a “reasonably” sane person would be driving. I feel like the sway bar is more of a CYA for Honda when some asshat decides to try a power slide at 67mph or is driving beyond their abilities at much too high of a speed.

I leave the Fox on the softest setting for 95% of my riding it lets it crawl over rocks and off camber trails easily, going a little faster the ride is like a Cadillac it’s feels like your floating over trail that would feel rough with stock shocks. If i know I’m going to be running faster on rough trail I’ll bump them to the middle setting which is 4.999% of my riding. The hardest setting is really reserved for ROUGH TRAIL at speed and jumps. I have tried them once to see how well that absorbed a somewhat small leap(it is near 2000lbs I’m launching into the air so I try not to do that) and they soaked it up like a champ didn’t even bottom out.


In all of these all 4 tires are making contact with the ground. With the sway bar connected it wouldn’t do it. A rear tire always started to lift and it’d feel unstable.

About this sway bar stuff ..... fill me in. First where is it located? I would have thought it would be to make the machine MORE stable, but sounds like it makes it less stable. If I understand correctly, removing it IMPROVES the handling in slower technical stuff without adverse reaction at high speed ...... correct? Is removing it pretty straight forward, or more complicated? With your setup, what is the tallest tire you can run?
 
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About this sway bar stuff ..... fill me in. First where is it located? I would have thought it would be to make the machine MORE stable, but sounds like it makes it less stable. If I understand correctly, removing it IMPROVES the handling in slower technical stuff without adverse reaction at high speed ...... correct? Is removing it pretty straight forward, or more complicated? With your setup, what is the tallest tire you can run?
It’s located in front of the suspension. Runs across from each lower control arm. Removing is simple but you could also disconnect it from the lower arm and test the feel beforehand.
When one side of the suspension goes up it forces the other up as well taking the independence out. Helps in high speed maneuvers as well as sidehills some. More of a safety thing. When out it allows the rig to articulate much better and in most cases allows for more traction and a smoother ride
 
joeymt33

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About this sway bar stuff ..... fill me in. First where is it located? I would have thought it would be to make the machine MORE stable, but sounds like it makes it less stable. If I understand correctly, removing it IMPROVES the handling in slower technical stuff without adverse reaction at high speed ...... correct? Is removing it pretty straight forward, or more complicated? With your setup, what is the tallest tire you can run?

It helps a lot in the slow technical stuff and I really can’t tell a difference at low speed. Now, if I have a lot of weight in the back or two adults in the back then I wish I had the sway bar
back in.
 
ohanacreek

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About this sway bar stuff ..... fill me in. First where is it located? I would have thought it would be to make the machine MORE stable, but sounds like it makes it less stable. If I understand correctly, removing it IMPROVES the handling in slower technical stuff without adverse reaction at high speed ...... correct? Is removing it pretty straight forward, or more complicated? With your setup, what is the tallest tire you can run?
Just in front of rear suspension. yes removing it makes a huge improvement on slow technical stuff, I haven't had more do I plan on having two full grown adults in the back on really rough stuff, or kids for that matter so I am not too worried about the effect the lack of a sway bar may have.

You can JUST fit a TRUE 30" tire on 5/2 wheels, with my setup. I am running the 30x10-14 Evos which measure about 28.5 at 10psi which is what I run. Less psi and its unstable at speed. Less PSI rides better and grips slightly better but its what suits me for my use.
 
Amre2me2

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A couple weeks ago, I was in Utah at Moab, a lot of the RZR guys have come up with another solution to this issue. They've added a short shock absorber to each side of the sway bar. The shock is only about 5" tall. Supposed to be best of both worlds.
I undid mine right after I bought it because I don't do any high speed stuff, all rock crawling slow technical stuff.
 
BigOL3

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It’s located in front of the suspension. Runs across from each lower control arm. Removing is simple but you could also disconnect it from the lower arm and test the feel beforehand.
When one side of the suspension goes up it forces the other up as well taking the independence out. Helps in high speed maneuvers as well as sidehills some. More of a safety thing. When out it allows the rig to articulate much better and in most cases allows for more traction and a smoother ride
I just pulled mine and I could tell an imediate difference and it was a good difference!
It helps a lot in the slow technical stuff and I really can’t tell a difference at low speed. Now, if I have a lot of weight in the back or two adults in the back then I wish I had the sway bar
back in.
Just in front of rear suspension. yes removing it makes a huge improvement on slow technical stuff, I haven't had more do I plan on having two full grown adults in the back on really rough stuff, or kids for that matter so I am not too worried about the effect the lack of a sway bar may have.

You can JUST fit a TRUE 30" tire on 5/2 wheels, with my setup. I am running the 30x10-14 Evos which measure about 28.5 at 10psi which is what I run. Less psi and its unstable at speed. Less PSI rides better and grips slightly better but its what suits me for my use.
A couple weeks ago, I was in Utah at Moab, a lot of the RZR guys have come up with another solution to this issue. They've added a short shock absorber to each side of the sway bar. The shock is only about 5" tall. Supposed to be best of both worlds.
I undid mine right after I bought it because I don't do any high speed stuff, all rock crawling slow technical stuff.

Thanks for all the info, very good.

Couple of points ..... appears there is swaybar FRONT and REAR, correct? For slower stuff does better with BOTH of them removed.

@ohanacreek mentioned TRUE 30s works with 5/2 wheels. I have been reading about such, but do not know exactly what the numbers of 5/2, etc stand for/mean. I assume they require special wheel other than stock 14s. I assume the Evo's have a little room to spar then. Will true 30's rub at extreme points of turning/bottoming out?

Thanks again for all the info, very helpful.
 
CumminsPusher

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There’s only a tear in the Pioneer. If there were one in front most would pull that too.
 
ohanacreek

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Thanks for all the info, very good.

Couple of points ..... appears there is swaybar FRONT and REAR, correct? For slower stuff does better with BOTH of them removed.

@ohanacreek mentioned TRUE 30s works with 5/2 wheels. I have been reading about such, but do not know exactly what the numbers of 5/2, etc stand for/mean. I assume they require special wheel other than stock 14s. I assume the Evo's have a little room to spar then. Will true 30's rub at extreme points of turning/bottoming out?

Thanks again for all the info, very helpful.

Only a rear one, 5/2 is just offset of the wheel.

They don’t rub but it’s not by much, @joeymt33 will have to confirm that though he has the true 30” tires on his. The 30x10-14 Evos do not rub at any point with the SATV arms. With factory wheels and tires the tires rubbed the upper arm at full lock. But the offset on the stock wheels is I think 6-1 on the front so they are sitting further inboard.

267e8150e68572a3e1666297c75ecd09
This is with worn 30” Roctanes which are true 30” tires on my machine. That’s about 1/2” of space at full lock.

New and suspension compressed it may JUST rub?
 
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