P1000m5 True Am Isolator

[bumperm]

I do remember all the likes and I was excited for the opportunity the isolator provided but when I put thought to action it didn't work for me lol. So I needed to confirm with all the awesome people on here.



I do have a port for a charger for the auxiliary battery using a boat trolling motor plug. I will probably add another for the main battery so it will work with my charger. It does not get this cold in MO often and we have spent almost a week in the negatives during the lows of the day. I hate cold but I love snow and MO does not give much snow. But MI snows are beautiful.

If you have a Tru battery isolator, you won't need to add a second charging jack. That assumes that battery the jack goes to is in reasonable shape. As soon as the battery "under charge" gets to about 13.2 volts, it will pass a share of the charging current over to the second battery. Tru suggests connecting the charger to the aux battery. So you should be good. Just get a charger on there.

Now think about all those Tesla owners back east who have had to abandon their cars as the lithium batteries won't accept a charge if it's too cold. EV's a workable thing?? Yah, sure, you betcha . . . not.

 

[Admin]

 

[bumperm]

If you have a Tru battery isolator, you won't need to add a second charging jack. That assumes that battery the jack goes to is in reasonable shape. As soon as the battery "under charge" gets to about 13.2 volts, it will pass a share of the charging current over to the second battery. Tru suggests connecting the charger to the aux battery. So you should be good. Just get a charger on there.

Now think about all those Tesla owners back east who have had to abandon their cars as the lithium batteries won't accept a charge if it's too cold. EV's a workable thing?? Yah, sure, you betcha . . . not.

 

[Robobrainiac]

If you have a Tru battery isolator, you won't need to add a second charging jack. That assumes that battery the jack goes to is in reasonable shape. As soon as the battery "under charge" gets to about 13.2 volts, it will pass a share of the charging current over to the second battery. Tru suggests connecting the charger to the aux battery. So you should be good. Just get a charger on there.

Now think about all those Tesla owners back east who have had to abandon their cars as the lithium batteries won't accept a charge if it's too cold. EV's a workable thing?? Yah, sure, you betcha . . . not.

I have the isolator from our club store. I have a trolling motor connector on the auxillary battery for charging. That is nice to know about the reverse charging capability of the isolator.

 

[StewB]

I have a True isolator on my 2021 P1K5.
I'd left the main plugged into a trickle charger most of last winter, and then again this winter. It's at my cabin and would be driven about once a week. Main battery cratered but the Mighty Max second battery is still working (not surprised).

So I replaced my main with the battery shown below (was cheaper about a month ago). The box had a large printed note stating that a trickle charger would shorten the life of the battery. It said if it's cold and you're not driving much, you can top up here and there or leave it on trickle on super-cold nights.
But it specifically said not to leave the trickle charger on for long periods of time. (Not taking a position, just restating.)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4RXZCP?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[JMynes]

I have another theory. I believe my jumper cables are junk.

I had to jump start my van after sitting forever. I had it at work and used our giant Mac jumper. I drove it to the Honda dealer after it idled for about half hour. Stupid me turned it off at the Honda dealer and the van was totally dead when I tried to leave. The cables I had on me were the only ones immediately available and were the same ones I tried to use to "self jump" the pioneer. I could not get the van to jump start. After forever in the cold a buddy of mine from work came to me and brought the work jumper cables. Monster cables with wires the size of my thumb. The van immediately started. I am ordering new jumper cables now.

I would get a jumper pack instead. More portable, won’t get tangled, doesn’t require a second vehicle. And most of them will charge your phone, too.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I do not support electric vehicles as a requirement. I do like electric from a fun factor point of view or as a choice. Government envolvement in electric vehicle production and forced ownership makes my soap box very tall.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I would get a jumper pack instead. More portable, won’t get tangled, doesn’t require a second vehicle. And most of them will charge your phone, too.

They do make some nice ones but remembering to keep them charged is something I typically forget to do.

 

[Scoop]

Thank you for the information! It looks great!

I did the same thing @Remington did as soon as I first saw his setup. Works great.

P1000 - Scoop's 2021 P1K5 Deluxe Phantom Camo Build

Scott @ UTV Heaters is shipping out a replacement heater unit and some ancillary components overnight. Can't say enough about this company and their customer service - truly exceptional. Less than 21 hours after I talked to Scott to discuss the situation, the replacement unit was delivered to...

hondasxs.com

It doesn't matter if you connect your charger to the AUX or main battery as long as you charge long enough to let the battery you are charging reach the cut-in voltage of 13.6V and then let it charge the other.

I generally run my AUX down faster than my main, which is why I connected my charger to my AUX battery. I keep my charger on all winter, only taking it off if I'm actively using the machine, so both are always charged.

 

[Remington]

But it specifically said not to leave the trickle charger on for long periods of time.

Im assuming they had trouble with cheap chargers and had alot of warranty claims.
Cuz a good charger like the Norco Genius
And the battery tender Jr shut off after a certain voltage, much like our new generation gen controls. The older ones where a constant voltate set and batteries would implode through time.
Lesson is, its very important to do research on float/trickle chargers before just buying and hooking up

 

[Scoop]

As soon as the battery "under charge" gets to about 13.2 volts, it will pass a share of the charging current over to the second battery.

I specifically asked True Amalgamated about voltages for the UTV-SBI-18.

Cut-in voltage is 13.6V and cut-out voltage is 12.9 (with a small threshold).

 

[Scoop]

But it specifically said not to leave the trickle charger on for long periods of time. (Not taking a position, just restating.)

They just want to be able to deny a claim when their POS battery craps out.

As long as you have a decent battery maintainer/tender, you can keep it on a battery year round, provided the battery isn't a POS. After all, that's the entire point for getting one!

FYI: True Amalgamated literally told me, "... our isolator is set up and manufactured to run on a tender."

 

[packer58]

Im assuming they had trouble with cheap chargers and had alot of warranty claims.
Cuz a good charger like the Norco Genius
And the battery tender Jr shut off after a certain voltage, much like our new generation gen controls. The older ones where a constant voltate set and batteries would implode through time.
Lesson is, its very important to do research on float/trickle chargers before just buying and hooking up

Noco Genius chargers are a very good unit, I have one in my bass boat "3 bank X 10 amp" and one in my enclosed trailer "10 amp". They are designed to stay plugged in and charge / maintain your batteries without overcharging. My bass boat is typically plugged in if it's not on the water.

 

[Robobrainiac]

Just to test my theory, I used the jumper cables from work that started my van in the previous post and the pioneer had a slow crank but turned over fast enough to start it. I drove it around a bit and parked it. Now I need to get the new battery installed at some point.

 

[bumperm]

I specifically asked True Amalgamated about voltages for the UTV-SBI-18.

Cut-in voltage is 13.6V and cut-out voltage is 12.9 (with a small threshold).

13.2? Yeah, that's what happens when you get old and are only left with a dozen or two active brain cells.

 

[NewHere2]

This is what I carry for an emergency jump across the Tru Isolator Studs. Homemade and handy.

 

[Scoop]

13.2? Yeah, that's what happens when you get old and are only left with a dozen or two active brain cells.

Already right there with ya, my friend.

 

[Scoop]

View attachment 415091
This is what I carry for an emergency jump across the Tru Isolator Studs. Homemade and handy.

^This.

Again, @Robobrainiac, you can have the best jumper cable(s) in the world, but if BOTH your batteries are in bad shape, connecting them in parallel (to jump start) won't help very much. A little, maybe, but not much.

 

[NewHere2]

I probably should do a “Build Thread” on that Hi-Tech jumper wire.

 

[Scoop]

I probably should do a “Build Thread” on that Hi-Tech jumper wire.

Only if you mine the copper, smelt it, draw it out into wire, then fabricate the plastic coating from the raw chemicals.

 

[NewHere2]

So an “Assembly Thread” is needed.. Got It !