P1000 Ice Crusher Heater with MaxStat

[Vikes79]

Vikes79: After installing the hard doors, there still was alot of leakage from roof gaps as you suggested. I sealed the gaps in my roof and that made a big improvement. I also installed shifter seals with additional benefits. The last areas I am going to address are air leaks on the ends of the dash where the OEM nets were attached, and possibly leaks under the steering wheel and brake pedal. Thanks for the suggestions.

The steering wheel flap is kinda leaky, if you lean to the middle and look down the underside of the steering shaft you can see the tire....

some rubber sheeting and some plastic rivets in the fender wells may help to close up some of it.

in the winter I usually set the steering wheel and shove some wash cloths above and below the steering shaft.

 

[Admin]

 

[Youngone]

I run the ice crusher and have soft rear window and doors. I did a few mods to get the cab warmer. I added sound proofing Matt to the roof, pool noodles took up the gap along top of roll bar, soft weather stripping from a house door riveted to the bottom and side of my doors, closed in the shifters with 1/4” felt, sealed up the brake peddle area and around steering column. these all helped keep us warm on minus 26 degree days. I also closed in one end of heater motor because it sucks in snow from the tracks and frosts up the window. The other side of the heater motor pulls air from the cab. My next step is to change out the heater for a dual fan with more air flow. That will be next fall as it’s warming up to minus 15 to 20 so don’t need the extra heat

 

[bh1332]

I run the ice crusher and have soft rear window and doors. I did a few mods to get the cab warmer. I added sound proofing Matt to the roof, pool noodles took up the gap along top of roll bar, soft weather stripping from a house door riveted to the bottom and side of my doors, closed in the shifters with 1/4” felt, sealed up the brake peddle area and around steering column. these all helped keep us warm on minus 26 degree days. I also closed in one end of heater motor because it sucks in snow from the tracks and frosts up the window. The other side of the heater motor pulls air from the cab. My next step is to change out the heater for a dual fan with more air flow. That will be next fall as it’s warming up to minus 15 to 20 so don’t need the extra heat

I'd like to see some pictures of your seals on your front doors. I purchased the rear door seals from a guy that made them from garage door seals, but I haven't sealed my front ones yet. Still considering ideas, including the 3M double adhesive tape but I am worried about it not sticking in -20 to -30 temps.

 

[Jacks]

3M seals are pretty much what I used. I cleaned door, stuck them on then drilled a few holes and used plastic push thingys to hold them in place. Has worked great all winter...

 

[Vikes79]

I'd like to see some pictures of your seals on your front doors. I purchased the rear door seals from a guy that made them from garage door seals, but I haven't sealed my front ones yet. Still considering ideas, including the 3M double adhesive tape but I am worried about it not sticking in -20 to -30 temps.

I used truck tailgate seal. 3 years and still works great

P1000 - Vikes79 Hardwater Honda build

I'm starting my build thread late as I figured that the winch, tires, leds etc are covered. I don’t see many hardwater setups so this is where I’ll start on my base P1000-5 eps. Borrowing with pride from other builds I have a Honda roof and 2 piece windshield. Also installed: aux batt, led...

hondasxs.com

 

[Youngone]

I'd like to see some pictures of your seals on your front doors. I purchased the rear door seals from a guy that made them from garage door seals, but I haven't sealed my front ones yet. Still considering ideas, including the 3M double adhesive tape but I am worried about it not sticking in -20 to -30 temps.

I will get them tomorrow for you

 

[bh1332]

I will get them tomorrow for you

Thanks Youngone. I looked at Vikes on his thread so no need for the pictures unless you just want to post. Thanks for offering though! I bought a tailgate seal today.

 

[Lady01]

I run the ice crusher and have soft rear window and doors. I did a few mods to get the cab warmer. I added sound proofing Matt to the roof, pool noodles took up the gap along top of roll bar, soft weather stripping from a house door riveted to the bottom and side of my doors, closed in the shifters with 1/4” felt, sealed up the brake peddle area and around steering column. these all helped keep us warm on minus 26 degree days. I also closed in one end of heater motor because it sucks in snow from the tracks and frosts up the window. The other side of the heater motor pulls air from the cab. My next step is to change out the heater for a dual fan with more air flow. That will be next fall as it’s warming up to minus 15 to 20 so don’t need the extra heat

Hey Youngone,
Hoping you could describe the shifter 1/4' felt to cover the shifter gaps (or pics of it installed) thanks in advance

 

[Amre2me2]

I have a 4” fan under the seat to blow out all the hot air from the engine compartment. Works great in the hot summer months to keep the cab cooler. So for winter, in added a 4” flex duct and ran it to a vent at my feet. Cost about $15 total. Plenty of heat. But the best thing I did was to throw the worthless upper soft doors in the trash and install the Honda hard doors. Zero cold air coming in and it also reduced all the outside noise to near zero.

 

[Youngone]

I'd like to see some pictures of your seals on your front doors. I purchased the rear door seals from a guy that made them from garage door seals, but I haven't sealed my front ones yet. Still considering ideas, including the 3M double adhesive tape but I am worried about it not sticking in -20 to -30 temps.

Here are a few of the door gaps sealed up and shifter. I didn’t do the seal on the inside of the door. It was like that when I bought it. We rode at minus 23 c today and I can drive with no gloves on.

 

[Prntckt]

I have a 4” fan under the seat to blow out all the hot air from the engine compartment. Works great in the hot summer months to keep the cab cooler. So for winter, in added a 4” flex duct and ran it to a vent at my feet. Cost about $15 total. Plenty of heat. But the best thing I did was to throw the worthless upper soft doors in the trash and install the Honda hard doors. Zero cold air coming in and it also reduced all the outside noise to near zero.

I removed soft doors and installed the hard doors also. Totally agree. The doors seal up great.

 

[Youngone]

I have a 4” fan under the seat to blow out all the hot air from the engine compartment. Works great in the hot summer months to keep the cab cooler. So for winter, in added a 4” flex duct and ran it to a vent at my feet. Cost about $15 total. Plenty of heat. But the best thing I did was to throw the worthless upper soft doors in the trash and install the Honda hard doors. Zero cold air coming in and it also reduced all the outside noise to near zero.

I

I removed soft doors and installed the hard doors also. Totally agree. The doors seal up great.

well if the hard doors make that much difference I will be looking into them. Friend of mine said you need a small loan to buy them in Canada.

 

[Prntckt]

I

well if the hard doors make that much difference I will be looking into them. Friend of mine said you need a small loan to buy them in Canada.

not sure of the price in Canada, but they weren’t cheap. I think they were worth the investment. After all, its a Honda money pit.

 

[Jensenj71]

Generally, I had good results with the heater and gen 1 honda soft doors, soft top, soft mid panel and Honda split windshield. Very comfortable for the 1-2 mile runs to the trailhead with ambient temps at 20F to 30F. Not tee-shirt weather in the cab, but much better than an atv ride before sunrise at 20mph.

We got stuck in a 3ft snow drift on top of a ridge during a blizzard this fall. Snow was level with the top of the hood and headlights were buried. The wind was blowing 20-30mph from the side.

The heater wasn't able to keep up with the air blowing through the cab via all of the gaps. We had snow accumulating in the cab. The nearest tree was 60yds. We broke a rope twice trying to reach and sling a tree to winch out. Luckily, I had bought a synthetic winch rope extension and we eventually got out after an hour of digging and winching.

My point is that we were getting close to needing to walk out. We had just split a cow elk between the 2 of us and packed her out 1.5miles to the sxs. We were wet. Luckily the nearest shelter was only 2 miles downhill. The heater wasn't going to buy us enough time to wait out the blizzard. We contemplated tarping the cab to block the wind, but tarping in 20mph wind seemed unlikely.

I had ordered an Alumalite roof, windshield and full front hard doors last fall. Just now getting everything installed. Kept the honda soft mid panel. Back seat/bed remains mostly open except for roof and corners. I plan to have clear vinyl windows made for the rear sides and back. The Alumalite doors seal significantly better and no gap between mid panel and roof. I would guess air leaks are reduced by 50% and no more split windshield leaking air at 30mph.

My goal is to keep the cab warm enough to survive a storm or an overnight with bellow freezing temps and high winds. I would like to have 6-8hrs to make use of satellite communications and to get help if things go wrong. I believe the cab will be warm enough under cruising conditions for a tee-shirt. I might even need to turn the heater down!

 

[Papaandhistoys]

Generally, I had good results with the heater and gen 1 honda soft doors, soft top, soft mid panel and Honda split windshield. Very comfortable for the 1-2 mile runs to the trailhead with ambient temps at 20F to 30F. Not tee-shirt weather in the cab, but much better than an atv ride before sunrise at 20mph.

We got stuck in a 3ft snow drift on top of a ridge during a blizzard this fall. Snow was level with the top of the hood and headlights were buried. The wind was blowing 20-30mph from the side.

The heater wasn't able to keep up with the air blowing through the cab via all of the gaps. We had snow accumulating in the cab. The nearest tree was 60yds. We broke a rope twice trying to reach and sling a tree to winch out. Luckily, I had bought a synthetic winch rope extension and we eventually got out after an hour of digging and winching.

My point is that we were getting close to needing to walk out. We had just split a cow elk between the 2 of us and packed her out 1.5miles to the sxs. We were wet. Luckily the nearest shelter was only 2 miles downhill. The heater wasn't going to buy us enough time to wait out the blizzard. We contemplated tarping the cab to block the wind, but tarping in 20mph wind seemed unlikely.

I had ordered an Alumalite roof, windshield and full front hard doors last fall. Just now getting everything installed. Kept the honda soft mid panel. Back seat/bed remains mostly open except for roof and corners. I plan to have clear vinyl windows made for the rear sides and back. The Alumalite doors seal significantly better and no gap between mid panel and roof. I would guess air leaks are reduced by 50% and no more split windshield leaking air at 30mph.

My goal is to keep the cab warm enough to survive a storm or an overnight with bellow freezing temps and high winds. I would like to have 6-8hrs to make use of satellite communications and to get help if things go wrong. I believe the cab will be warm enough under cruising conditions for a tee-shirt. I might even need to turn the heater down!

View attachment 257727

Hell yes!!!!!! That’s what I’m talking about. If you don’t me asking, what did that setup set you back?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[caverat]

This

Generally, I had good results with the heater and gen 1 honda soft doors, soft top, soft mid panel and Honda split windshield. Very comfortable for the 1-2 mile runs to the trailhead with ambient temps at 20F to 30F. Not tee-shirt weather in the cab, but much better than an atv ride before sunrise at 20mph.

We got stuck in a 3ft snow drift on top of a ridge during a blizzard this fall. Snow was level with the top of the hood and headlights were buried. The wind was blowing 20-30mph from the side.

The heater wasn't able to keep up with the air blowing through the cab via all of the gaps. We had snow accumulating in the cab. The nearest tree was 60yds. We broke a rope twice trying to reach and sling a tree to winch out. Luckily, I had bought a synthetic winch rope extension and we eventually got out after an hour of digging and winching.

My point is that we were getting close to needing to walk out. We had just split a cow elk between the 2 of us and packed her out 1.5miles to the sxs. We were wet. Luckily the nearest shelter was only 2 miles downhill. The heater wasn't going to buy us enough time to wait out the blizzard. We contemplated tarping the cab to block the wind, but tarping in 20mph wind seemed unlikely.

I had ordered an Alumalite roof, windshield and full front hard doors last fall. Just now getting everything installed. Kept the honda soft mid panel. Back seat/bed remains mostly open except for roof and corners. I plan to have clear vinyl windows made for the rear sides and back. The Alumalite doors seal significantly better and no gap between mid panel and roof. I would guess air leaks are reduced by 50% and no more split windshield leaking air at 30mph.

My goal is to keep the cab warm enough to survive a storm or an overnight with bellow freezing temps and high winds. I would like to have 6-8hrs to make use of satellite communications and to get help if things go wrong. I believe the cab will be warm enough under cruising conditions for a tee-shirt. I might even need to turn the heater down!

View attachment 257727

This is my basic goal as well To have mine set up to be a type of survival shelter. It is hard to explain to someone who dont know How perillas it can feel and be to be stuck at 8000+ feet in sub zero temps in white out conditions. Just being able to keep the wind off can be life and death. I was in a similar situation as you only I hade my wife with me the tree was 200 yards away camp was 8 miles away. I had failed to notice we were running on top of hard crusted snow and broke threw in the middle of a very large drift. Luckily I've been stupid most of my life and carry all kids of self rescue equipment. A few hours a lot of chainsaw work with some MacGyver skills we made it back to camp wet and cold but able to do it again.
I've spent most all winter modifying and plugging holes on my 700 at -20 I can run 35mph and still be snug as a bug

 

[Jensenj71]

It is certainly worth noting that sxs can make you comfortable enough to drive further away than you can walk back before you die. I have spent quality time in the cab of a pickup waiting out a storm or waiting for help. I would like the sxs to be able to replace the pickup.

 

[Prntckt]

Generally, I had good results with the heater and gen 1 honda soft doors, soft top, soft mid panel and Honda split windshield. Very comfortable for the 1-2 mile runs to the trailhead with ambient temps at 20F to 30F. Not tee-shirt weather in the cab, but much better than an atv ride before sunrise at 20mph.

We got stuck in a 3ft snow drift on top of a ridge during a blizzard this fall. Snow was level with the top of the hood and headlights were buried. The wind was blowing 20-30mph from the side.

The heater wasn't able to keep up with the air blowing through the cab via all of the gaps. We had snow accumulating in the cab. The nearest tree was 60yds. We broke a rope twice trying to reach and sling a tree to winch out. Luckily, I had bought a synthetic winch rope extension and we eventually got out after an hour of digging and winching.

My point is that we were getting close to needing to walk out. We had just split a cow elk between the 2 of us and packed her out 1.5miles to the sxs. We were wet. Luckily the nearest shelter was only 2 miles downhill. The heater wasn't going to buy us enough time to wait out the blizzard. We contemplated tarping the cab to block the wind, but tarping in 20mph wind seemed unlikely.

I had ordered an Alumalite roof, windshield and full front hard doors last fall. Just now getting everything installed. Kept the honda soft mid panel. Back seat/bed remains mostly open except for roof and corners. I plan to have clear vinyl windows made for the rear sides and back. The Alumalite doors seal significantly better and no gap between mid panel and roof. I would guess air leaks are reduced by 50% and no more split windshield leaking air at 30mph.

My goal is to keep the cab warm enough to survive a storm or an overnight with bellow freezing temps and high winds. I would like to have 6-8hrs to make use of satellite communications and to get help if things go wrong. I believe the cab will be warm enough under cruising conditions for a tee-shirt. I might even need to turn the heater down!

View attachment 257727

What are you using for Satcom equipment?

 

[Jensenj71]

I have a Garmin Inreach Mini that is bluetooth paired with my phone. I selected the Mini because it is small enough I can carry it with my bino harness and I am not tempted to leave it out or stuff it in the bottom on my pack. It provides tracking and text communication. Pre-configured texts can be sent with the location info attached for a minimal monthly cost. The phone is not required, however it provides a more convenient user interface if you want to randomly text. I use my phone for GPS and ballistics.

I have used it intermittently for 4-5 days without charging and still had more than 50% battery left. I am confident I can get 7-10 days out of it. Additionally, I believe it will go 3 days with automatic tracking if updates are sent every 30mins. Obviously, the battery isn't an issue if you are in the sxs and have a charger.

I can also send pre-configured texts with location to other inreach users in the field. This is great for coordinating help to pack out a large critter. This can be critical during archery season when you need to get meat out quickly. A have a pre-configured text that says, "bring a pack and a strong back". It is also great for marking a pickup location.