P1000 Installing electrical fuse board

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boOkerT

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Would it be okay to install a fuse board with fuse's more like car (larger) than the mini that Honda uses? I purchased a board off Amazon and didn't realize it has different fuses but the same amps.. Since then I haven't really been able to find one that had like 10 slots mini type....
 
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bumperm

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You might want to use a fuse block that takes the smaller size fuses, as space is somewhat limited under the "hood" and you may want to add stuff later. There are many different offerings, such as:

fuse block
 
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TumaloKeith

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You might want to use a fuse block that takes the smaller size fuses, as space is somewhat limited under the "hood" and you may want to add stuff later. There are many different offerings, such as:
Exactly, the space is very limited. However, I just installed the Soyond fuse box and I would not recommend using this. Just Cheap Chinese junk. The spacing for connections is very tight,the bolts and washers for the battery posts are pretty darn small.. Warning, voltage leaks! Not unusual to drain power, but just so you know its a very slow battery drain. The other thing I realized after trying to cram this in somewhere is that many accessories such as light bars come with a built in fuse. So this is redundant. I may just take it out and put in a simple fuse block. Much easier to use and takes up less space. Unless you plan to put in a bunch of unfused items, I'd get a different product next time::

 
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bumperm

bumperm

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Exactly, the space is very limited. However, I just installed the Soyond fuse box and I would not recommend using this. Just Cheap Chinese junk. The spacing for connections is very tight. Warning, it leaks! After I made my first connection I noticed that the light I connected came on very dim before I put the fuse in. The other thing I realized after trying to cram this in somewhere is that many accessories such as light bars come with a built in fuse. So this is redundant. I may just take it out and put in a simple fuse block. Much easier to use and takes up less space. Unless you plan to put in a bunch of unfused items, I'd get this next time:



That single 250 amp fuse, you linked to, has a purpose, and that might be close to the output of a battery that is intended to provide current for a large device such as a winch. In that application, it is protecting the wiring and the winch. However, this would not be suited for your lower current wiring to individual devices! The smaller fuses protect the lighter gauge wiring AND the devices they power. Without those small fuses, a chafed wire or internal short, besides the equipment failure, could cause a fire. And by the time that lighter gauge wire is melting or on fire due to a short, it won't have pulled nearly enough current to blow that big 250 amp fuse! They split up electrical systems into smaller fused branches for good reason.

Another advantage of using a fuse box with several fuses, powering individual devices, is that a failure of one device or wire will usually not be critical - you can keep operating without that device.
 
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Hondasxs

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That single 250 amp fuse, you linked to, has a purpose, and that might be close to the output of a battery that is intended to provide current for a large device such as a winch. In that application, it is protecting the wiring and the winch. However, this would not be suited for your lower current wiring to individual devices! The smaller fuses protect the lighter gauge wiring AND the devices they power. Without those small fuses, a chafed wire or internal short, besides the equipment failure, could cause a fire. And by the time that lighter gauge wire is melting or on fire due to a short, it won't have pulled nearly enough current to blow that big 250 amp fuse! They split up electrical systems into smaller fused branches for good reason.

Another advantage of using a fuse box with several fuses, powering individual devices, is that a failure of one device or wire will usually not be critical - you can keep operating without that device.
Totally agree. I see no use for a large fuse with our application. It only provides assumed "protection". 100 amps will cause a fire and won't blow the fuse.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
bumperm

bumperm

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Also, generally speaking, and assuming wiring is appropriately sized, fuses for distribution wiring are typically rated at about double the expected current draw of the circuit and in any case no larger than the wiring rated capacity.
 
Smitty335

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That single 250 amp fuse, you linked to, has a purpose, and that might be close to the output of a battery that is intended to provide current for a large device such as a winch. In that application, it is protecting the wiring and the winch. However, this would not be suited for your lower current wiring to individual devices! The smaller fuses protect the lighter gauge wiring AND the devices they power. Without those small fuses, a chafed wire or internal short, besides the equipment failure, could cause a fire. And by the time that lighter gauge wire is melting or on fire due to a short, it won't have pulled nearly enough current to blow that big 250 amp fuse! They split up electrical systems into smaller fused branches for good reason.

Another advantage of using a fuse box with several fuses, powering individual devices, is that a failure of one device or wire will usually not be critical - you can keep operating without that device.
And a lot easier to trace down issues.
 
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boOkerT

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looking at placing the fuse board is there a reason a person can't just use heavy duty Velcro and use the flat surface on the secondary battery that lays side ways in the aux battery compartment?
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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looking at placing the fuse board is there a reason a person can't just use heavy duty Velcro and use the flat surface on the secondary battery that lays side ways in the aux battery compartment?
No reason at all! In the picture below, I've used 3M Dual-Lock (or Mushroom lock) tape to mount the fuse box on the left as well as a 75 amp Bosh relay I'm using instead of a "Stinger". Both pry off easily and there is just enough wire slack to allow better access to the fuse block for additions etc.

The location you suggested, on the 2nd battery, is where I've moved the largish fuse and relay box that comes on the SE - it was living partially in the aux battery location as delivered. I secured the battery with a cam-lock type nylon strap that is hot melt glued to the battery box sides. Between the battery and original fuse box, I've inserted a sheet of dense, but compressible black foam rubber which the tie down strap compresses to keep everything snug and secure.

20210725 154202
 
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boOkerT

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Thanks all for your'e help I'm hoping I'll get it figured out and completed today, this part anyway. Too many distractions since the wife retired a month or so ago.
 
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