Has anybody modified the low range gear ratio in the sub transmission? I have looked online and found gear sets for the transmission, but I like the high range gear ratio and don't want to change it. I pull a boat down a pretty rough road, and would like the clutch to be fully engaged at 1-2 mph, instead of 3 mph when it's in low range.
BigOL3
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Not that I'm aware of, but it typically doesn't feel fully engaged until I got 3 mph after take off. I can slow back down after that maybe to 2 mph, but that is at a very low rpm and borderline on disengaging the clutch to let it slip.
D
I wish it would fully engage a .5mph. You have 6 gears in low range so you could still get enough speed. Reverse also could be lower. The engine runs plenty rpms and could easily keep the 35mph speed limiter. I think that would help rock crawling and creeping around and also getting a loader trailer moving. If someone was to come out with something like this, I would buy one.
D
Traction isn't an issue. It would just be nice to be able to creep with put slipping the clutches
Its not about traction...putting in low lock will give you the low slow moving reduction you desire. You may even get what you want just in low without 4-wheel lock.
BigOL3
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Is low/lock any lower gearing than just LOW? If so, I was not aware.
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DDDonkey
Guest
If there was an easy way to get a lower low range and lower reverse that would be great but as of right now I have not found anything out there other than the IGR or portal lift, and both of those also lower the high range too so it would be a wash.
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Any new products on the market that address this? I'd also like the high range where it's at but low range could be much lower geared for my purposes.
H
hondabob
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Install a set of Pioneer 500 24 inch tires. That may get it down to 2 mph in low range. I think the clutch locks up at 1,800 rpm. I always keep mine at 3 mph or above.
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DDDonkey
Guest
These guys seem to be working on something to get a lower, low range and reverse gear.
ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
Moderator
Lifetime Member
I’ll believe it when I see a blurry low quality video late at night with poor lighting.
They won't even need to advertise the gear ratio change because on their butt Dyno it'll be the best ratio of all the ratios ever based on their experience with testing the ratios and then dialing them in so they are the best.
ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
Moderator
Lifetime Member
Those two are so full of crap, they are “that guy” that adds a cold air intake and swears it added 50hp and wants to race you to prove it. Zach has been booted from almost every facebutt group for threatening to whip someone’s ass for questioning his butt Dyno. They absolutely dogged Reduction Boss and his IGR saying an IGR was stupid and WILL ALWAYS cause damage....then they start marketing their own....their hypocrisy and sleaze knows no bounds.
Even if it were better, which it won’t be, off principle alone I wouldn’t buy anything from them.
ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
Moderator
Lifetime Member
Now that said an IGR or portals is the only option for changing your gearing. With the IGR you will have to use a PV3 or the speedo healers to get it to shift correctly, the ECU is measuring Output shaft speed not wheel speed for shifting. The IGR changes that by a large percentage and throws the ECU off.
With the portals you will have to correct for weaknesses in frame, steering rack, and a few other factory parts, so either way you’re spending extra money beyond the added parts. They are great for mud but require frequent oil changes, not so great in the rocks.
With 32” tires(as measured not labeled) you’re about 3% lower that factory gearing on factory height tires(as measured not labeled). So if you’re looking to add taller tires and regain some “power” an IGR is the way to go.
I just wouldn’t trust the Morris bois, they overpromise and underdeliver.
With the portals you will have to correct for weaknesses in frame, steering rack, and a few other factory parts, so either way you’re spending extra money beyond the added parts. They are great for mud but require frequent oil changes, not so great in the rocks.
With 32” tires(as measured not labeled) you’re about 3% lower that factory gearing on factory height tires(as measured not labeled). So if you’re looking to add taller tires and regain some “power” an IGR is the way to go.
I just wouldn’t trust the Morris bois, they overpromise and underdeliver.
I agree that their sales pitch with zero supporting data and their constant nagging about how much better they are than anything else is a huge turn off
Dezrik
Follow me for adventure!
Lifetime Member
IGR And Speedohealers do not work, The only real way in my opinion is PV3 and transmission tuning. Coming from a IGR Owner! Ive done the Morris bros/Cops IGR Tuning and it shifts more like factory before IGR. The Clutch does engage at a lower RPM and will die before the clutch slips with the tune. Morris Bros/Cops is working on a low range and reverse gear reduction however it is still being engineered and machined. I believe covid slowed down the progress but its still in the works. I will be running IGR And the low range kit when its available, Hopefully before the next riding season!!
D
I have the dynojet pv3 with hess tune and the dynojet tune. I will say the clutch engagement is so much better. It shifts firmer which I like. As far as adding power, maybe a little. I got it for running cooler and better clutch engagement. So adding a tuner does nothing to change lower gearing.
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