P500 Newer 520 Valve clearance Qs & As

[MarineTanker]

As the most current shop talk about 500/520 valves is 8 years old, I wanted to start a new thread with some questions regarding the newer (if is is) engine. Trying to buy or download a current service manual is either insanely difficult or insanely expensive.
Qs...
- I want to check valve clearances and have read about removing the rear cover and turning the engine with a ratchet and socket, instead of rolling the buggy to TDC. What size socket? Deep socket required?
- I have a couple of sets of gauges, but neither will slip in and down to measure clearance without bending it out of shape. Does anyone know of and can recommend an L-shaped gauge, if there is such a thing?
- And the last question I see asked, but never answered is: Has anyone found the valves to be "significantly" out of adjustment when performing their 100 mile initial service? By significant, I mean more than 2 thousanths.

Thanks

 

[Admin]

 

[SILVER_ALERT]

I can't be much help since I have never done a valve adjustment on my 500, but many service manuals including the P520 are are available for download on this forum for "supporting members", which is a very modest amount of money. I don't know how difficult they are to download because I have never tried it. If you are already aware of that, hopefully someone who has done it will chime in.

https://hondasxs.com/threads/honda-sxs-service-manuals-500-700-1000-talon.34567/

 

[MarineTanker]

Thanks. I'll check it out. Still can't believe what a "paper" manual costs!

 

[Remington]

Thanks. I'll check it out. Still can't believe what a "paper" manual costs!

They are $$$ fo sho!
Become a lifetime/supporting member on here and you wont have to spend that cuz they are a free download on there then

Also, the 500 motor is different than a 520 and the 520 being out only a few yrs.
So those older threads with VLC will be different fyi. Dont want to get that wrong.

 

[DRZRon1]

As the most current shop talk about 500/520 valves is 8 years old, I wanted to start a new thread with some questions regarding the newer (if is is) engine. Trying to buy or download a current service manual is either insanely difficult or insanely expensive.
Qs...
- I want to check valve clearances and have read about removing the rear cover and turning the engine with a ratchet and socket, instead of rolling the buggy to TDC. What size socket? Deep socket required?
- I have a couple of sets of gauges, but neither will slip in and down to measure clearance without bending it out of shape. Does anyone know of and can recommend an L-shaped gauge, if there is such a thing?
- And the last question I see asked, but never answered is: Has anyone found the valves to be "significantly" out of adjustment when performing their 100 mile initial service? By significant, I mean more than 2 thousanths.

Thanks

is what it is on a manual - or like many said here become a member, see if it’s on u tube, etc.

once you get the inspection port cover off - just figure out what type and size socket u will need to roll engine over

100 miles on a Honda engine is nothing and my humble opinion is to do nothing unless you hear rockers are noisy, yes L shaped feeler gauges are available everywhere


I just got a 22 year old 500 rubicon running for my buddy after it sat dead with a bad ECM for a couple of years - I went and checked the valves and they did not need adjustment - and the machine was used every day on a tree farm until the ecm died so my guess is lots of hours but since the display was dead - just a guess

 

[MarineTanker]

Thanks guys! Yeah, the whole "check valve clearance @ 100 miles" seems to be a way Honda can safeguard itself. Just a lot of work to get to the engine. Not a difficult job once there. I'm only going to put another 100 miles on it this year during deer season, so I'll wait until the weather warms in the spring and I'm itching for something to do.

 

[MarineTanker]

Q. I just completed the valve clearance check on my 2024 Pioneer 520, but now I am wondering if I did something wrong!
I just stuck a pen down into the cylinder and turned the crank the piston cam all the way up, and figured that was TDC. Now, my brother told me I should have determined that the piston was up on the compression stroke, and not on the exhaust stroke.
Can anyone tell me if there's an appreciable difference?
I hate to take it all apart just to check my work, and I don't know if I can actually determine which stroke it's on at TDC anyway.