P500 Newer 520 Valve clearance Qs & As

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MarineTanker

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As the most current shop talk about 500/520 valves is 8 years old, I wanted to start a new thread with some questions regarding the newer (if is is) engine. Trying to buy or download a current service manual is either insanely difficult or insanely expensive.
Qs...
- I want to check valve clearances and have read about removing the rear cover and turning the engine with a ratchet and socket, instead of rolling the buggy to TDC. What size socket? Deep socket required?
- I have a couple of sets of gauges, but neither will slip in and down to measure clearance without bending it out of shape. Does anyone know of and can recommend an L-shaped gauge, if there is such a thing?
- And the last question I see asked, but never answered is: Has anyone found the valves to be "significantly" out of adjustment when performing their 100 mile initial service? By significant, I mean more than 2 thousanths.

Thanks
 
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SILVER_ALERT

SILVER_ALERT

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I can't be much help since I have never done a valve adjustment on my 500, but many service manuals including the P520 are are available for download on this forum for "supporting members", which is a very modest amount of money. I don't know how difficult they are to download because I have never tried it. If you are already aware of that, hopefully someone who has done it will chime in.

 
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Remington

Remington

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Thanks. I'll check it out. Still can't believe what a "paper" manual costs!
They are $$$ fo sho!
Become a lifetime/supporting member on here and you wont have to spend that cuz they are a free download on there then😉

Also, the 500 motor is different than a 520 and the 520 being out only a few yrs.
So those older threads with VLC will be different fyi. Dont want to get that wrong.
 
DRZRon1

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As the most current shop talk about 500/520 valves is 8 years old, I wanted to start a new thread with some questions regarding the newer (if is is) engine. Trying to buy or download a current service manual is either insanely difficult or insanely expensive.
Qs...
- I want to check valve clearances and have read about removing the rear cover and turning the engine with a ratchet and socket, instead of rolling the buggy to TDC. What size socket? Deep socket required?
- I have a couple of sets of gauges, but neither will slip in and down to measure clearance without bending it out of shape. Does anyone know of and can recommend an L-shaped gauge, if there is such a thing?
- And the last question I see asked, but never answered is: Has anyone found the valves to be "significantly" out of adjustment when performing their 100 mile initial service? By significant, I mean more than 2 thousanths.

Thanks
is what it is on a manual - or like many said here become a member, see if it’s on u tube, etc.

once you get the inspection port cover off - just figure out what type and size socket u will need to roll engine over

100 miles on a Honda engine is nothing and my humble opinion is to do nothing unless you hear rockers are noisy, yes L shaped feeler gauges are available everywhere


I just got a 22 year old 500 rubicon running for my buddy after it sat dead with a bad ECM for a couple of years - I went and checked the valves and they did not need adjustment - and the machine was used every day on a tree farm until the ecm died so my guess is lots of hours but since the display was dead - just a guess
 
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MarineTanker

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Thanks guys! Yeah, the whole "check valve clearance @ 100 miles" seems to be a way Honda can safeguard itself. Just a lot of work to get to the engine. Not a difficult job once there. I'm only going to put another 100 miles on it this year during deer season, so I'll wait until the weather warms in the spring and I'm itching for something to do. ;)
 
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MarineTanker

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Q. I just completed the valve clearance check on my 2024 Pioneer 520, but now I am wondering if I did something wrong!
I just stuck a pen down into the cylinder and turned the crank the piston cam all the way up, and figured that was TDC. Now, my brother told me I should have determined that the piston was up on the compression stroke, and not on the exhaust stroke.
Can anyone tell me if there's an appreciable difference?
I hate to take it all apart just to check my work, and I don't know if I can actually determine which stroke it's on at TDC anyway.
 
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john790

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Well your brother was right and it can make a difference.Bite the bullet buy a book.I always buy the books that way i can study and make foot notes as needed.
 
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On the compression stroke both valves will have play. Be sure to turn the crank clockwise. I'm at 4,000 miles on my 520 and will check the valves again. They needed adjustment after my break in. Both just need a slight adjustment.
 
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DRZRon1

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On the compression stroke both valves will have play. Be sure to turn the crank clockwise. I'm at 4,000 miles on my 520 and will check the valves again. They needed adjustment after my break in. Both just need a slight adjustment.
U r a smart man - Same here - or look up on internet, utube and see if available - im no mechanic at all - but smart enough to be able to figure it out after educating myself a bunch - I do admire those who can just tear into these - remember the valve clearances, torque specs and just get it done - kudos to those master mechanics
 
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MarineTanker

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Get a shop manual
While I appreciate you (and others) who have advised me to get a service manual, I (A) don't want to fork over $80.00 for a paperback that will (B) be more difficult to read than War & Peace. Youtube and this forum are easier for me to understand.
 
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MarineTanker

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U r a smart man - Same here - or look up on internet, utube and see if available - im no mechanic at all - but smart enough to be able to figure it out after educating myself a bunch - I do admire those who can just tear into these - remember the valve clearances, torque specs and just get it done - kudos to those master mechanics
I agree with you about youtube and other internet ways of learning. My first pass at checking my valves took 3.5 hrs and I ended up setting them on the exhaust stroke TDC and not the compression stroke. A small engine member here advised me, and I went back in and reset them on the compression stroke. This time, it took me only 1.5 hrs and that included putting my heat-shield back in for the warm months. For me, actually doing something is how I learn it. Julius Caesar said: "Experience is the best teacher" and it's still the case.
 
trigger

trigger

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While I appreciate you (and others) who have advised me to get a service manual, I (A) don't want to fork over $80.00 for a paperback that will (B) be more difficult to read than War & Peace. Youtube and this forum are easier for me to understand.
You have access to a digital copy right here with a membership. Don't know what the cost is these days but I'm sure it's way cheaper than $80.
 
Jerryg

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While I appreciate you (and others) who have advised me to get a service manual, I (A) don't want to fork over $80.00 for a paperback that will (B) be more difficult to read than War & Peace. Youtube and this forum are easier for me to understand.
It's going to cost you way more than $80 when you drop a valve.
 
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MarineTanker

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It's going to cost you way more than $80 when you drop a valve.
Well, thanks for that. However, (and without an $80.00 manual) I've checked and set the valve clearances to specs @ .009 on the exhaust and .006 on intake. I would be willing to bet that a good percentage of those with their $80.00 svc manuals don't bother. From what I've read over the past few months, a lot of owners just simply disregard the "effort" of checking their clearances @ 100 miles entirely. Instead, it's "all is okay unless I start hearing valve chatter." At least I saved myself the $420.00 the dealership quoted me for the job...lol
 
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DRZRon1

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Well, thanks for that. However, (and without an $80.00 manual) I've checked and set the valve clearances to specs @ .009 on the exhaust and .006 on intake. I would be willing to bet that a good percentage of those with their $80.00 svc manuals don't bother. From what I've read over the past few months, a lot of owners just simply disregard the "effort" of checking their clearances @ 100 miles entirely. Instead, it's "all is okay unless I start hearing valve chatter." At least I saved myself the $420.00 the dealership quoted me for the job...lol
Glad u got it fixed and got it done correctly.

just an fyi - u can download the manual for about $25 from many sites - become a member on here, etc…. - even though you have a hatred for manuals - lol

Im a techno nut -but my latest read is the intricacies of putting a basket case back together - nothing like knowing exactly what the factory was thinking - good, bad or indifferent - when it comes in boxes as a roller - I can’t remember 40 years back anymore.



IMG 3344

IMG 2781
 
M

MarineTanker

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Glad u got it fixed and got it done correctly.

just an fyi - u can download the manual for about $25 from many sites - become a member on here, etc…. - even though you have a hatred for manuals - lol

Im a techno nut -but my latest read is the intricacies of putting a basket case back together - nothing like knowing exactly what the factory was thinking - good, bad or indifferent - when it comes in boxes as a roller - I can’t remember 40 years back anymore.



View attachment 466566

View attachment 466570
LOL...and thanks!
 
Jerryg

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Well, thanks for that. However, (and without an $80.00 manual) I've checked and set the valve clearances to specs @ .009 on the exhaust and .006 on intake. I would be willing to bet that a good percentage of those with their $80.00 svc manuals don't bother. From what I've read over the past few months, a lot of owners just simply disregard the "effort" of checking their clearances @ 100 miles entirely. Instead, it's "all is okay unless I start hearing valve chatter." At least I saved myself the $420.00 the dealership quoted me for the job...lol
What happens when you have to replace the shift motor or rear axle seal.

It's worth the $80
 
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