P1000 No nonsense light bar mounts <$30 (UPDATED)

Ultrasonic1

Ultrasonic1

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I wanted to build a cheap set of light bar mounts that would stand up to some abuse while offering a little protection to the light itself. I also wanted to keep the project reasonably simple. That’s to show how easily anyone could build similar mounts or use the same simple fabrication tricks for other projects. No air tools were used, and I didn’t need anymore than a 110 outlet for power.


Materials used:
2” x 3’ x 3/16” thick, flat bar
4 flange bolts with nuts
Spray paint
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These items can all be found at Home Depot, Lowe’s, or similar stores.

Tools needed:
Welding machine - I used a 110v MIG
Grinder/cut off tool
Drill - I used traditional bits and a step bit
Dremel
Tape measure
Clamps
Vise

Misc items:
Poster board
Tape
Marker
Box knife
PPE! Protect yourself, if you have to go to the ER, your probably going to catch Covid and die. Keep it safe.

The poster board is very close in thickness to the flat bar. It also happens to be WAY easier to shape than steal, so it’s a perfect template material.
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I made my parts from the poster board first. This makes fitting and trimming and shaping the parts a breeze. Then you can simply trace your shapes onto the steel and cut out your pieces.

I knew about where I wanted the light to sit, and where I wanted the mount to bolt to the ROPS. So I used a Dremel to cut holes in the plastic roof big enough for the flat bar to pass through. I also had to trim the bottom edge of the roof a little for the bolts.
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To make the bar fit flush to ROPS/support I had to made a shim.
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I used my marker to dot where I wanted my bolt holes located. Next I began attaching these two pieces and drilling out the bolt holes. For this I used two plug welds and one lap weld.
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To bend the flat bar I made a relief cut on the opposite side of where I wanted the bend. This allows the bar to be easily bent in the vise to your desired angle.
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A note about bending this way. It will cause stress cracking in the cut. This doesn’t concern me much as I’ll be welding the cut back up when I’m finished and I’m confident it’ll never be a problem for this application.
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At this point I’m bending and fitting, bending and fitting, until I have the light centered and the mounts are symmetrical side to side. I’ve been using clamps to hold the mounts to the ROPS so far. So I go ahead and drill out my holes and fasten the mounts tight. Then recheck to ensure light is still centered.
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The next step was to make the side guards. So I turned back to the poster board to make templates, then cut and fit the metal pieces.
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Before welding these pieces together, I ground bevels into both sides of the piece. I did this to ensure I had enough fusion of the two pieces to grind the welds down flush. I stitch welded these pieces and the relief cuts. Stitch welding helps minimize the amount of heat introduced into the part, which helps minimize distortion.
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Now time to smooth out the welds.
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One more fit up with the light just to make sure. Here I used the marker to draw out where I wanted to do my final clean up of the part.
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Now to finally finish grind the part and clean it up for paint. I did all my finishing with the flap disc on the grinder. It’s not perfect, but it’s fine for me.
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After a quick spray paint job the final install.
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And there it is. Bullet proof light bar mounts made for cheap.
 
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Ultrasonic1

Ultrasonic1

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I think anyone with a welder, grinder and a drill can pull it off. You just hafta jump in and get after it.
 
helimech

helimech

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love it, goin the same route, do you get any reflection off the windshield at night when its flipped up ?
 
Ultrasonic1

Ultrasonic1

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The windshield glows a little from the light when it’s flipped up. I wouldn’t say it’s a glare, and it doesn’t affect visibility any. I’ll take a picture tonight from inside to give you an idea.
 
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Ultrasonic1

Ultrasonic1

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@helimech Do you still have the soft top on your buggy?
 
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helimech

helimech

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Looks good, not too much glare.i have the honda hardtop on mine
 
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