P500 p5 suspension

solrus

solrus

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ChrisC how much preload do u have on your rear shocks??

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chrisC

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JWB

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Got my double front air shocks installed today- no welding needed. I had to remove a little of the front vertical support for clearance, but otherwise it was just bolts and bushings and spacers. Both sides are isolated now- until I get the valving and compressor installed. I took it for a ride with 70psi (half what I was running w/singles) in both sides, and the ride is somewhat firmer, and the rebound definitely more controlled, and the dip where I was doing the 'bottoming' test, I was able to almost double my speed before bottoming, so I bumped pressure up to 80psi. It didn't really make any notable difference in ride, but no more bottoming out in the dip, at least at same speed, and I'm not comfortable going any faster. Articulation is not as good as when the shocks 'see' each other, but that's what I expected, and it's still way better than stock. If this fails, I can unbolt them and put the stock shocks back in with all the original bolts. I'm gonna call this a very successful day!
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Montecresto

Montecresto

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Got my double front air shocks installed today- no welding needed. I had to remove a little of the front vertical support for clearance, but otherwise it was just bolts and bushings and spacers. Both sides are isolated now- until I get the valving and compressor installed. I took it for a ride with 70psi (half what I was running w/singles) in both sides, and the ride is somewhat firmer, and the rebound definitely more controlled, and the dip where I was doing the 'bottoming' test, I was able to almost double my speed before bottoming, so I bumped pressure up to 80psi. It didn't really make any notable difference in ride, but no more bottoming out in the dip, at least at same speed, and I'm not comfortable going any faster. Articulation is not as good as when the shocks 'see' each other, but that's what I expected, and it's still way better than stock. If this fails, I can unbolt them and put the stock shocks back in with all the original bolts. I'm gonna call this a very successful day!
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Holy s***, I see what you did, that is totally awesome. Looks like far more work disassembling and reassembling the P5's front clip then bolting on the shocks! Looks really cool though!!
 
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Montecresto

Montecresto

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@JWB, more questions for you on the single shock set up. The shocks have an airline kit with them which has a T so that both shocks can be pressured up from one valve chuck. Using the valve on the dash that can be opened and closed depending on the terrain one is traveling, how would the airline be ran to let the shocks "see" each other, be pressured up from one location, and incorporate the in dash valve. And what type of valve is that for the dash and where's a good place to purchase it? Thanks.
 
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JWB

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Thanks! The rears won't be that easy- I didn't realize till today how much shorter the rear shocks are, so I might have to do the top mount re-locate, but I won't know till I get the rear up in the air and disassembled, and measure the rear available travel. These shocks might not best choice, but there are lots of options with the Hi-jackers.
EDIT: 8/3/17- The rears turned out to be easier than the fronts- no grinding needed for clearance. JWB
 
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JWB

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@JWB, more questions for you on the single shock set up. The shocks have an airline kit with them which has a T so that both shocks can be pressured up from one valve Chuck. Using the valve on the dash that can be opened and closed depending on the terrain one is traveling, how would the airline be ran to let the shocks "see" each other, be pressured up from one location, and incorporate the in dash valve. And what type of valve is that for the dash and where's a good place to purchase it? Thanks.
Put the 'cross-over' valve in between one leg of the the existing 'tee' fill valve and one shock, either side, it doesn't matter. You'll need a Hoke [HASHTAG]#1826F2B[/HASHTAG] panel mount valve or equivalent, and 2 of Parker #W68PLP-2-2 (that fits the Hoke valve) I found it all on ebay. So- when you add, or release air, you have to have the valve open, so both shocks have the same air pressure, and then close it isolate them for normal riding. The Hoke valve is a 'toggle' so you just flip it up to open, and flip it down to close, is very compact, and rated for 200psi.
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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Put the 'cross-over' valve in between one leg of the the existing 'tee' fill valve and one shock, either side, it doesn't matter. You'll need a Hoke [HASHTAG]#1826F2B[/HASHTAG] panel mount valve or equivalent, and 2 of Parker #W68PLP-2-2 (that fits the Hoke valve) I found it all on ebay. So- when you add, or release air, you have to have the valve open, so both shocks have the same air pressure, and then close it isolate them for normal riding. The Hoke valve is a 'toggle' so you just flip it up to open, and flip it down to close, is very compact, and rated for 200psi.
Very good, thank you @JWB! Does this look like the correct valve to you?
TV-3S 2 Position 2 Way Air Pneumatic Knob Control ON OFF Toggle Valve Silver DT | eBay
 
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C

Chooglin

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No single. If they fit they are yours . I'm going to start to give away old eom shocks or may be find a shop where they would measure Honda spring rates .

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Does this offer still stand ?

After removing the springs from the shock, I measured them at 12 1/2" length and 2 1/4" I.D. on the spring. So I think those springs you have will fit !

What is the inside diameter of the springs you have ?
 
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solrus

solrus

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Does this offer still stand ?

After removing the springs from the shock, I measured them at 12 1/2" length and 2 1/4" I.D. on the spring. So I think those springs you have will fit !

What is the inside diameter of the springs you have ?
Yes it's valid. Spring ID is 1.88'

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solrus

solrus

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Eibach springs have your ID. Not sure what rating u wanna get

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JWB

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Very good, thank you @JWB! Does this look like the correct valve to you?
TV-3S 2 Position 2 Way Air Pneumatic Knob Control ON OFF Toggle Valve Silver DT | eBay
How you gonna connect it? I can't even imagine trying to figure out the adapters for that! But, it is a panel mount air valve- don't know if it's rated for 200 psi either. It would suck to have a cheap valve spit it's guts into your face in the middle of no where, and leave the front end laying on the ground- jus sayin... Try the shocks without the valve first if money's the issue, it may be fine for your riding style.
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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How you gonna connect it? I can't even imagine trying to figure out the adapters for that! But, it is a panel mount air valve- don't know if it's rated for 200 psi either. It would suck to have a cheap valve spit it's guts into your face in the middle of no where, and leave the front end laying on the ground- jus sayin... Try the shocks without the valve first if money's the issue, it may be fine for your riding style.
Lol, money's not an issue, I want quality parts. Would you please provide a link to the one you mentioned above, I can't seem to find one.
 
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solrus

solrus

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They have the inside diameter I need but not in the length I need !


My spring is 10", just get 10" and fabricate insert to fill the gap like Walker Evans guys did and sent it to me
 
solrus

solrus

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Choo, make an insert, buy from summit racing , they have good return policy, buy 2- 3 spring with 50 lbs difference , no need to ride, just measure sag if sag 30% then test ride.

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solrus

solrus

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I can send you a formula , or talk to ChrisC he calculated for me the sag, and we got like 39% with 540 lbs live fat weight ( 2 big guys).

For solo riding , 160lbs front spring will be better, I have 175 lbs on front now.

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Chooglin

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Choo, make an insert, buy from summit racing , they have good return policy, buy 2- 3 spring with 50 lbs difference , no need to ride, just measure sag if sag 30% then test ride.

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Pm sent
 
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