This thread is going to cost me a lot !
Did the new setup change your ride height compared to how it was before? Because of the initial stiffness you describe ,would you have gone with regular springs on the front maybe instead of the HD ones ? The top front shock mount moving in will help with this for sure...but with the current setup what stiffness might you recommend ? Were the rear springs HD?
rears are hd and so far seem perfect (so far) lol im going to mover the front tops in more to get more angle maybe an inch or to but im making an adjustable bracket with a few hole so it will give me options i might get to it tonight but my cv boots and exhaust arrived today lol
joeymt33
i4WD=imitated 4WD
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LOL the term "Tippy" or less tippy to be more precise is very subjective. The machine may experience less body roll due to firmer suspension but the width, height, and center of gravity are virtually unchanged thus you will never defeat the laws of physics, with the shock you may just less of a leaning (warning) before it goes over.
That is a good thought you have, and it is a very accurate statement. However, this is not a static situation. The center of gravity can be dynamic and move with the momentum of the vehicle whether that be left or right or forward and backwards.
I will add to it though. If the stiffer shocks and springs reduce body roll then it will reduce the possibility of a turnover. This is true because the center of gravity will change to either the left or the right as the vehicle is leaning on softer Springs or shocks.
ill put it so every one can understand without get to techy i can now stuff truns HARD!!!! and not feel uncomfortable the a$$ dips and rips and the front stays planted ( tho im still playing with the fronts back im not touching)
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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yes at some point in near future i hope but as for price including shocks would be around 1100 1200 6 and change for shocks 5ish for labor
got the shock changeover done! What a difference in the ride! On rough trails now i dont get bounced off the seat like before. And this is at 10-15mph.
The faster you go though really lets the shocks shine, 25-30mph on old railway beds,through the whoops, the ride is controllable and smooth.
thanks jak9922 for showing me the way!
I had the honda upgrade COHV 3-2013 replacement shocks done before this.It helped the ride. But this setup completely changes the machine for the better. The ride height is back to where it was before the replacement shocks. If i needed more ground clearance its only to put in more preload.
the shock in the picture is the COHV 3-2013 replacement shock.
The faster you go though really lets the shocks shine, 25-30mph on old railway beds,through the whoops, the ride is controllable and smooth.
thanks jak9922 for showing me the way!
I had the honda upgrade COHV 3-2013 replacement shocks done before this.It helped the ride. But this setup completely changes the machine for the better. The ride height is back to where it was before the replacement shocks. If i needed more ground clearance its only to put in more preload.
the shock in the picture is the COHV 3-2013 replacement shock.
Tflynn
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Awesome! Jak I always believed you!
lee
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@chrisC I must of missed something. @jak9922 modified his upper shock mount in front and rear I thought. Did you modify the front also?
What shock did you use in front - as in what do I ask for if I call Walker Evans Racing (assuming I win the Lotto)?
Just want to make sure I can duplicate what you have done with out trying to reinvent the wheel.
It's not like I'm a professional chassis engineer you know.
Thanks.
here you can see lower mount in its original position,still welded on.shock is bolted to stock top mount which is unchanged.you can see where
shock mount on the bottom needs to go. You cut off this mount where its welded on with as thin a cutting disk as you have .Then turn shock mount around.
This is mount and a arm cleaned up and just sitting there ready to be welded. The position i used was with a arms just hanging. You could push down an additional 3/4" with your fingers. the ball joint shouldn't be binding in this position,and the axles are nowhere near binding. This gave me the original ride height with more travel and a ride MUCH more like my buddies american made 50" machines
jak9922 did the same thing.I just took a couple pictures
shock mount on the bottom needs to go. You cut off this mount where its welded on with as thin a cutting disk as you have .Then turn shock mount around.
This is mount and a arm cleaned up and just sitting there ready to be welded. The position i used was with a arms just hanging. You could push down an additional 3/4" with your fingers. the ball joint shouldn't be binding in this position,and the axles are nowhere near binding. This gave me the original ride height with more travel and a ride MUCH more like my buddies american made 50" machines
jak9922 did the same thing.I just took a couple pictures
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