P1000 Priming a new heater core

[Scoop]

Thought I'd run this by folks to see if I'm thinking correctly.

I'm installing a new Ice Crusher in-dash heater.

Instructions say to prime the new heater core with a garden hose BEFORE attaching in/out hoses to the heater core. I can't do that in this Michigan winter.

Note that these instructions are for installing the heater WITHOUT the optional electric water pump (see below) and, without the electric water pump, the heater core would otherwise have you obtain the fresh coolant supply for the heater core by putting a Y connector in the *upper* radiator hose -- something that is NOT done when using the optional electric water pump. But ... read on.

Wondering if this approach might work instead of the garden hose to prime the heater core:

First, how it's installed/routed:

Heater core INPUT: The coolant input to the heater core comes from a Y connector that's installed in the oil cooler bypass hose. At this Y connector, some (not all) coolant is routed to an electric water pump. This is what feeds the coolant (input) to the heater core. By being installed @ the oil cooler bypass, this electric pump will constantly circulate coolant even when the bike is just started/is below temp and will better move coolant thru the heater core when at idle.

Heater core OUTPUT: The heater core coolant output goes to a Y connector in the lower radiator hose which, of course, adds coolant (back) to the line that feeds the engine. The oil cooler bypass, of course, gets coolant from this main coolant supply BEFORE it gets to the engine (so it's never starved for coolant when the engine thermostat is closed) and also constantly feeds coolant to the electric water pump.

Here's my question:

To prime the heater core without doing it with a water hose before I connect the upper and lower hoses @ the heater core, can't I simply remove the radiator cap, keep the radiator full of 50/50 and turn the electric water pump on without starting the bike?

The pump should (always) draw coolant from the lower radiator side. It will directly feed coolant thru the new hose, thru the top of the heater core and out the lower radiator Y connector (priming the core), and adding it back to its own supply. Adding coolant directly to the radiator while doing this should provide the needed coolant to fill the system to accommodate the heater and new hose while (hopefully) allowing at least some of the air to escape the loop thru the open radiator (thru the upper radiator hose via the Y @ the oil cooler bypass).

Does this sound like it would work or am I totally off base?

I'm no cooling system expert, but the way I see it, the electric pump would be providing the pressure to prime the heater core no differently than a garden hose would, provided the air in the system has place to escape.

I might have to crack open the upper heater hose to allow air out if it can't otherwise make it out by going through the other side of the Y connector @ the oil cooler bypass and thru the upper radiator hose/radiator.

Would appreciate any input. Thanks.

 

[Admin]

 

[Prntckt]

My system didn’t have a pump, so I couldnt say for sure. Sounds like it should work. Others have elevated the front of the machine to get the air out of the system. I found that several heat/cool cycles took care of it on my machine.

 

[Scoop]

Thanks, @Prntckt. I'm sure I'll have to do a final burp (e.g., elevate the front, etc.) to get the remaining air out, but am hoping what I described above will get me past the "prime the core with a garden hose" requirement with the initial install.

Is there an "official" procedure for getting air out of the cooling system of the Pionner 1000?

I've seen a number of references to the "put front on an incline, remove rad cap and burp" to address situations where air in the system is causing overheating problems. But is there an actual Honda procedure to get the air out?

My system didn’t have a pump, so I couldnt say for sure.

You have an Ice Crusher, right? You can add the electric water pump - they are replacing the Max Stat option with this on quite a few different bikes. It gets heat to the cab sooner (Luke warm coolant is better than no coolant) and it allows you to push more coolant thru when at idle (the pump comes with a dash switch for high, low and off).

 

[john790]

From i am looking at your heater is above the engine. Your honda pump is not going to want to push water to your core thats why they install a pump.So if you hook the hose to the bottom of the core fill thru top of the core as much as you can to get the dead air out.Then must be return from rad, fill that hose before you hook to the core thats the best you can do i think. I just dont understand where your water from your core out is going to go with stat closed.I know its a oil cooler but honda uses it as a oil heater also nice in the winter.It cirulates water even with the stat closed.The oil cooler out hookes right back to the water pump for flow with stat closed.JOE

 

[Prntckt]

I used a couple Rhino Ramps to elevate the front to evacuate the remainder of the air in the coolant system. I think the max stat is key to making my heater work. The heater system is sensitive to coolant level too. If its down even a little, the heater takes awhile to put out heat. Taking the time to seal up air leaks in the cab is time well spent. Makes the heater more effective, and limits the amount of dust in the cab during the warmer months too.

 

[Prntckt]

I might look at the pump instead of the Max Stat in the future. Ill be interested to see what your experience is with the pump

 

[Scoop]

From i am looking at your heater is above the engine. Your honda pump is not going to want to push water to your core thats why they install a pump.So if you hook the hose to the bottom of the core fill thru top of the core as much as you can to get the dead air out.Then must be return from rad, fill that hose before you hook to the core thats the best you can do i think. I just dont understand where your water from your core out is going to go with stat closed.I know its a oil cooler but honda uses it as a oil heater also nice in the winter.It cirulates water even with the stat closed.The oil cooler out hookes right back to the water pump for flow with stat closed.JOE

No, the electric pump is optional. It's also what they will supply in place of the Max Stat with many kits. The system doesn't NEED thr pump to work - it works fine without it if you don't want the pump option. The pump helps keep a strong flow of coolant to the heater even when at idle.

Coolant out of the heater goes to the lower radiator hose, which feeds the engine AND the oil cooler bypass and the electric pump is fed from a Y connector @ the oil cooler bypass. That's how water makes the loop through the heater even when the thermostat closed.

 

[Scoop]

I might look at the pump instead of the Max Stat in the future. Ill be interested to see what your experience is with the pump

I'll let you know ... after they ship me a replacement heater unit since this one leaks like crazy on the inside of the unit ...😡😡😡

 

[Prntckt]

They are pretty responsive, you should get your replacement pretty quickly. I was missing a threaded hose adapter for the max xstat-they were good about promptly shipping it out

 

[Prntckt]

Where does the 12vdc pump get mounted?

 

[Scoop]

Where does the 12vdc pump get mounted?

Mounting plate attaches to the aluminum coolant tubes under the seat.

They are pretty responsive, you should get your replacement pretty quickly. I was missing a threaded hose adapter for the max xstat-they were good about promptly shipping it out

On its way already. Next day air arriving tomorrow (if UPS does their job).

Scott @ customer service @ UTVHeaters.com aka Coupers Products is the best!