P1000 New intake air control valve plug

[PawPaw]

Ok fellas help an old man out. My 2018 Pioneer was at the camp. Rat chewed my neutral safety switch wire and thanks to threads on here I was able to fix that. Before taking it to the camp for the hunting trip it was missing a little. So when I got the neutral safety switch fixed I decided to clean the intake air control valve as shown in the video. It now lopes between 2000 and 3000 rpm’s. Ordered the pigtail clip from the store but need any help possible. Also how hard is the pigtail plug to install? I know this is long but thanks in advance.

 

[Admin]

 

[ODAMO]

Ok fellas help an old man out. My 2018 Pioneer was at the camp. Rat chewed my neutral safety switch wire and thanks to threads on here I was able to fix that. Before taking it to the camp for the hunting trip it was missing a little. So when I got the neutral safety switch fixed I decided to clean the intake air control valve as shown in the video. It now lopes between 2000 and 3000 rpm’s. Ordered the pigtail clip from the store but need any help possible. Also how hard is the pigtail plug to install? I know this is long but thanks in advance.

This is from a 22 manual but should be the same info.

 

[PawPaw]

Thanks Smitty. I pulled and cleaned it but didn’t check the operation. Didn’t know how.

 

[MadcoHokie]

I don't want to take over your thread but having the same issues as you. Couple weeks ago my 2017 Pioneer 1000 LE randomly stalled out when I started it after already driving it that day and ran fine but sometime that day had a 29-1 MIL but still ran fine and I think it actually went away. The next day it had really high idle and the 29-1 was tough to get home because when shifting idle was so high. So I pulled the IACV and cleaned it and started it before putting air cleaner on. Once I put air cleaner back on I could not get it to start. Thought maybe I didn't have the groove in IACV motor the slot down in the bore and got lucky that the position it was in allowed it to start. It spun and seems to work but read online that it should be replaced instead of cleaned. Nonetheless I bought the new plug and new IACV motor figuring it had to be one of the two from what I read.

Fast forward to today installed the IACV and it started right up but I had the loping idle from ~2300-3000. Decided well it must be the plug so went ahead and changed it and still have the same issue. The IACV motor spins, it starts with and without the IACV plugged in and idles basically the same. The check engine light went away but still have idle issues. I haven't put the air box back on because that is the biggest pain in the whole job.

Now I am at a loss. Does it need to run/be driven to learn new settings? Do I need to reset anything? What is typical idle RPM I don't even remember at this point? Thoughts?

 

[PawPaw]

So you have basically the same issue I have now. So maybe some people here can help us both out.

 

[MadcoHokie]

So you have basically the same issue I have now. So maybe some people here can help us both out.

I hope so. Really need to get this thing going again.

To your question above, the plug isn't to hard to install. There isn't much wire from the pioneer harness that is accessible from the back. I ended up leaning over the seat and crimping. Was kind of defeating for me because still have issues but figure it gets rid of a failure point.

How do we know that small slot is in the groove? Seems like it seats even if it isn't in the slot and it is impossible to see so just doing it all by feel. Only way I could see it was inline with the rear screw treads is with magnifying glass app on my phone. It runs the same if plugged in or not and I know it spins but not sure if it is engaged to adjust.

 

[MadcoHokie]

Are you on Facebook pawpaw? Getting good discussion on pioneer owner's group over there.

 

[HondaTech]

You probably missed the pin that holds the cylinder from spinning in the hole. It's easy to get in the notch instead of the straight groove.

 

[MadcoHokie]

You probably missed the pin that holds the cylinder from spinning in the hole. It's easy to get in the notch instead of the straight groove.

Any tips or jigs to make sure you hit the pin?

 

[PawPaw]

Not on Facebook. I tried to line all of that up. Maybe I did. It’s been raining in Lower Alabama the last couple of days so I haven’t got to get out there on it. I got a new set of spark plugs to install also.

 

[MadcoHokie]

You probably missed the pin that holds the cylinder from spinning in the hole. It's easy to get in the notch instead of the straight groove.

Any tips on how to get it lined up? I can only see the position of it with my phone much less see it while installing.

When Honda recommended replacing the IVAC did they mean the whole assembly #13 rather than just the motor #13?

 

[HondaTech]

Any tips on how to get it lined up? I can only see the position of it with my phone much less see it while installing.

When Honda recommended replacing the IVAC did they mean the whole assembly #13 rather than just the motor #13?View attachment 370876

I've never replaced the body, just the actuator itself.

It can be difficult to line up, ypu might also check to see if it moves freely with the key on before installing it.

 

[MadcoHokie]

I've never replaced the body, just the actuator itself.

It can be difficult to line up, ypu might also check to see if it moves freely with the key on before installing it.

What do you mean by moves freely? As in it spins? If so yes, it did when I tested yesterday.

This morning I pulled the IACV motor out again and reinstalled 3 times. After the first time it started up around 2000 RPM but slowly climbed up until loping again. Tried pulling it out and reinstalling two more times trying my best to get it on the pin. I guess I wasn't successful. Seems to me it shouldn't seat into the bore where o-rings seals unless in that slot. There is some configuration that it won't seat, not sure if it in one of the four bottom slots.

Is there anyway to confirm it is engaged without starting and seeing if issue goes away. It is hard to tell because it does but take much for it to rotate when pulling out to see if in same position.

 

[HondaTech]

When you have the valve our, turn the key on and see it trys to move vertically on the shaft, if you hold the cylinder.

 

[MadcoHokie]

When you have the valve our, turn the key on and see it trys to move vertically on the shaft, if you hold the cylinder.

Yes it does. Just held my finger on the bottom and turned key and it un screws itself.

 

[HondaTech]

Yes it does. Just held my finger on the bottom and turned key and it un screws itself.

So that verifies the valve is "checking" its travel and isn't stuck.

It's just a matter of getting that slot lined up. If it seems to be in line then it's possible there's a wire broken right at the connector housing. It's not super common but happens.

 

[MadcoHokie]

So that verifies the valve is "checking" its travel and isn't stuck.

It's just a matter of getting that slot lined up. If it seems to be in line then it's possible there's a wire broken right at the connector housing. It's not super common but happens.

As part of this I replaced the plug with one from link below. Which should rule that out unless I didn't get installed right but it seems good. I haven't ran through the checks in manual and check engine light went away.

Thing is I think I have it lined up but still has the idle surge so then I can only assume I don't. I just can't believe after removing and reinstalling 6-7 times now I would have got lucky once. This last time it didn't lope right away, it started at ~2000RPM and slowly climbed in about 45 seconds to 3000 RPM then started the surging.

It runs exactly the same if plugged in or not if that helps trouble shooting.

Link - IACV connector for Honda SxS/UTV Honda Pioneer!

 

[MadcoHokie]

Honda Tech - What are you thoughts on this comment from guy on Facebook that says he is Honda Tech also.

Link - Honda Pioneer 1000 Riders | Facebook


”The most common thing I see happen is that the iacv gets bent/tweaked during removal or installation, just barely. I had an issue where someone took on out to put in a different unit for troubleshooting purposes. I put it back in to have idle surging and idle hang issues, tried a different iacv but that didn't do anything, replaced iacv with new iacv body and good as new. Made it a rule of thumb ever since"

 

[Hondasxs]

Ya, if it's bent, that would sure cause a issue.


Also. Those crimps are in shrink tube. So be sure to shrink them to seal the connection.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[MadcoHokie]

Ya, if it's bent, that would sure cause a issue.


Also. Those crimps are in shrink tube. So be sure to shrink them to seal the connection.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I don't think it new one is bent but something going on.

Yeah, I was waiting to put the heat to the tubes after I got it running right just in case I had to cut them back off.

Full assembly replacement sure fire way to go? $40 more for assembly vs just the actuator.