P1000m5 Rock Donkey v2 Long Travel

[ohanacreek]

The 3 beers part sounds solid.
But, hot diff + cold water = air in the diff contracts and it suck some air in the vent.
As long as the vent is above the water level it's all good (I think the manual says max water depth is 10" or 6" or maybe 2" can't remember).

I think the manual says tread depth, I don't like my butt wet so I try not to get water above tread depth. BUT(T) just in case I have it snorkled for that OS moment when I misjudge the depth of a puddle.

 

[Admin]

 

[JACKAL]

What I've been told is, axle, drive shaft seals are designed to keep oil in. When you come to a deep water crossing and been running hard, I let things cool down for 3 beers, cause with diffs hot/ transmission when you run off into deep water, with things are hot, it cools off and acts like a vacuum for water, also shrinks shaft diameters faster than seals can react. I always check ALL oils after riding in deep water. Yea I have learned the hard way.

Annendum to Owners manual, upon approaching water crossings, stop and consume 3 alcoholic beverages before proceeding. By the 4th water crossings your state will be, "F it, hold my beer" and the following day will be posting about water ingestion and milky oil.

 

[JACKAL]

When your rubber seals can't shrink as fast as the cooling metal shaft. What.....

 

[elkguide]

When your rubber seals can't shrink as fast as the cooling metal shaft. What.....


View attachment 44438

Is this a personal cry for help?

 

[JACKAL]

Is this a personal cry for help?

I don't think Albert Einstein and Richard Feynman combined could help prove that theory.

 

[Smitty335]

When your rubber seals can't shrink as fast as the cooling metal shaft. What.....


View attachment 44438

Yep ran the same bearings for 12 years, that includes trip to Canada every Summer, Old timer shared that secret at the boat ramp, after I asked him if he had bearing problems on his trailer. Used to change bearings twice a year.

 

[JACKAL]

Yep ran the same bearings for 12 years, that includes trip to Canada every Summer, Old timer shared that secret at the boat ramp, after I asked him if he had bearing problems on his trailer. Used to change bearings twice a year.

I know absolutely nothing about boats other than it's an acronym for Bust Out Another Thousand. I haul trailers over 10k miles per month and check the hubs daily, if them are warm it is usually poorly lubricated or improperly assembled with the nut too tight. But I don't see how either correlated to a Honda differential that is engineered to much higher quality standards or tolerances than a hub. But after running Honda ATC's & Fourtrax machines in rivers and creeks since 1980 I can attest the only times I got water in them is when the machines got submerged.

 

[ohanacreek]

This is the extent of time I've had to wrench on or play with the Mistress in the last 6 weeks.
Works got me ragged and I'll be out of town for 9 days. Starting Sat so 15 mins throwing some cup holders for my ORCAS is it.

$12 for the pair on Amazon not too bad the LED ones were prime and the plain stainless weren't. Figured red would make it easy to relocate a cold beverage at night.

I've got some fun/ needed upgrades in the works though as soon as I have spare time.

 

[ohanacreek]

Bilge Fan Temps

I measured these 4 times, it was 92F/47%Humidity.

1. Engine off
2. Engine Running to 2 Bars on dash and then 15mins idling.
3. No Fan, 15mph for 3miles
4. Let sit idling until temps = #2, then Fan On same 3miles at 15mph.

1.




2.
The seat crack ONLY at the passenger belts got "hot", everywhere else was just warm. There was a SMALL 2" diameter area in the rear passenger floorboard that got HOT but it's the spot that is closest to the exhaust.





Hottest spots I could find on muffler plastic.

3.
50degree drop just moving





4.70degree drop with Fan, this was the HIGHEST temp I could find with the fan on and moving.

 

[ohanacreek]

Ok boys and girls first shipment is here

 

[ohanacreek]

Front A-Arms are in, 30" Evos are on the way, along with a vent kit from @Bayouownbeer, I'm hoping it's more fuel resistant than the "fuel resistant" hose I bought at Napa.

 

[joeymt33]

Front A-Arms are in, 30" Evos are on the way, along with a vent kit from @Bayouownbeer, I'm hoping it's more fuel resistant than the "fuel resistant" hose I bought at Napa.

What's the tracking number say on the tires?

 

[GlockMeister]

Front A-Arms are in, 30" Evos are on the way, along with a vent kit from @Bayouownbeer, I'm hoping it's more fuel resistant than the "fuel resistant" hose I bought at Napa.

I was in a hurry when I did mine and used regular vacuum line. It's still in tact..need to change though.

 

[ohanacreek]

What's the tracking number say on the tires?

Not sure not shipped yet....

 

[ohanacreek]

I was in a hurry when I did mine and used regular vacuum line. It's still in tact..need to change though.

I was a cheapo and used fuel resistant vacuum lines.

 

[Bayouownbeer]

Front A-Arms are in, 30" Evos are on the way, along with a vent kit from @Bayouownbeer, I'm hoping it's more fuel resistant than the "fuel resistant" hose I bought at Napa.

Fuel resistant hose is expensive. You don't need fuel resistant hose. It's just a vent your vent should never have fuel on it unless your upside down.

 

[joeymt33]

It's got fuel vapor in that hose

 

[elkguide]

It's got fuel vapor in that hose

And vapor can be corrosive.

 

[ohanacreek]

Got the rear arms instead of the front...going on anyway....

 

[ohanacreek]

First chance I've had to wrench on my machine in a WHILE. Nice to have help, who at points jumped right in and moved along faster than I was.

Vent lines ALL done, only had fuel tank vented with crappy hose that deteriorated. Redid it, just need some filters on the vents.
Stole Joey's tie town idea(and some of his tie downs)
Tightened the intake (the down tube from underhood breather was loose, air box was loose, as in not secured to the machine.)

Had a ground that had come slightly loose or I had not fully tightened at some point.
One of the coolant lines under the floor was not leaking but the clamps could be spun by hand.
BugBuster installed, made it all the way home at interstate speed.

Sway Bar Off, think it's going to take some getting used to but for the kind of riding I do most of the time I think it's going to be the way to go for better traction.

Rear Arched arms on.
I ordered the fronts but the rear came, decided that the shop and the help was so nice, might as well put the rear arms on.

Instructions said 10mm of thread showing but after taking them off 3 times I ended up at 16mm of thread showing, @joeymt33 had the same and his has a lift installed. Toe in looked good, camber looked good. I want them for ground clearance, without a lift, and for ability for a slightly larger tire on the front. Supposed to give 3" of overall wheelbase, not sure at what loss to track width but with aftermarket tires and wheels I'm sure that can be back to factory easy enough.







To get to the skid easier we tipped it over, and had the drivers side captured in case of it deciding it didn't like to be tipped over. While it was over I took a picture with my Virb.



I don't think my VIRB is perfectly level on the mount, I think it was closer to 35 degrees but sitting still, it still wasn't quite at its tipping point. I wouldn't want to try this much roll moving, It'd fall over.

Gotta get my front arms and tires on.