Talon Rugged Radio Mounting

[Ezgoin]

@Ezgoin Thanks for all the input. I have the X4. Not sure where the antenna is going to land with the 13 ft cable. may need to order a longer cable. We'll see once all the stuff arrives.

I wanna say mine came with a 12’ cable and there wasn’t a lot of extra after mounting behind the seat. If you want to get to the rear of your machine you may need more cable, but if you can find a good spot up front you’ll have lots left over. One thing you’ll see them say over and over is to NOT coil any excess antenna cable. You have to run the extra around somewhere to use up any extra length. They will cut to length for you if you tell them how long.
Are you going to use their Talon face plate to install where the cubby hole is? If so, pay attention to the keeping the face plate flat as you install the radio/intercom. Somehow mine got pulled down on the corners..no idea why or how unless it came that way or got pulled in when tightening the face plate to the radio, causing it to be a little rounded across the face. It’s not noticeable until I bought their weather cover for the radio and it won’t work because it’s magnetically fastened and since the cover is flat across the face and the base plate isn’t flat, the cover won’t fit without rocking on the high point! Just another word of caution.

 

[Admin]

 

[Ezgoin]

@Ezgoin Thanks for all the input. I have the X4. Not sure where the antenna is going to land with the 13 ft cable. may need to order a longer cable. We'll see once all the stuff arrives.

One other thing.... RR sells a “Baja Cover” that’s a Neoprene cover designed to fit over the rear of the radio/intercom and protect them from splashing water, dust, dirt, mud, rocks etc. I think it’s a really good idea when mounting the units where the rear of the radios protrude into the under-hood area. If you decide to use that I recommend getting it up front rather than having to unplug everything from the back of the units and feed the cables through the Baja Cover and hook them all up when they’re hard to reach.

 

[jamesh]

I wanna say mine came with a 12’ cable and there wasn’t a lot of extra after mounting behind the seat. If you want to get to the rear of your machine you may need more cable, but if you can find a good spot up front you’ll have lots left over. One thing you’ll see them say over and over is to NOT coil any excess antenna cable. You have to run the extra around somewhere to use up any extra length. They will cut to length for you if you tell them how long.
Are you going to use their Talon face plate to install where the cubby hole is? If so, pay attention to the keeping the face plate flat as you install the radio/intercom. Somehow mine got pulled down on the corners..no idea why or how unless it came that way or got pulled in when tightening the face plate to the radio, causing it to be a little rounded across the face. It’s not noticeable until I bought their weather cover for the radio and it won’t work because it’s magnetically fastened and since the cover is flat across the face and the base plate isn’t flat, the cover won’t fit without rocking on the high point! Just another word of caution.

Yeah, they sell a low profile bezel for the intercom if you want to use the magnetic radio cover. I almost ordered it and something else, but I think I'll wait I get the kit I ordered and see what else I want/need after partial install. I did not know about the bajan cover for the back. One more purchase!

 

[Ezgoin]

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Yeah, they sell a low profile bezel for the intercom if you want to use the magnetic radio cover. I almost ordered it and something else, but I think I'll wait I get the kit I ordered and see what else I want/need after partial install. I did not know about the bajan cover for the back. One more purchase!

bought the low profile bezel but I think something related to mounting the radio/intercom to the base plate pulled the corners of the base plate down causing a rounded shape to the base plate which makes the cover rock end to end. I modified the cover to allow for the curvature but still another thing that didn’t work right. I know the Baja Cover is another Expenditure but the rear of the radios are more susceptible to water damage than the front and more likely to get wet from the openness of the under hood area. Totally your call on what you want to do for your own situation.

 

[WCLaubner]

I just received a Rugged Radio kit with their Talon mounting plate. It’s obvious the radio/intercom are too deep to fit in the cubby hole to be utilized so the back of the cubby hole will have to be cut out. However, on the back side of the cubby hole there is a molded support coming from behind the instrument cluster and attaching to the cubby hole housing. Sure doesn’t look like something I want to take a jig saw too! Of course the mounting bracket, as well as the rest of the kit came without any instructions whatsoever, so it leaves me wondering how to deal with the cubby hole and the bracket behind it! Anyone have a clue?

I strongly urge you to purchase the oem part that is a rubber membrane that is in front of the driver side (12” x 18”) and reverse hang it overlapping the middle section. You’ll need 4 of those plastic pop rivets to secure it, it will stop mud and wet from entering the dash from the front of the talon. $7 from dealer.
I then taped up the edges to the metal firewall to seal it up

 

[Ezgoin]

I strongly urge you to purchase the oem part that is a rubber membrane that is in front of the driver side (12” x 18”) and reverse hang it overlapping the middle section. You’ll need 4 of those plastic pop rivets to secure it, it will stop mud and wet from entering the dash from the front of the talon. $7 from dealer.
I then taped up the edges to the metal firewall to seal it up

Interesting idea! I’ll have to try that!

 

[jamesh]

Interesting idea! I’ll have to try that!

EZ... can you take a pic of how you attached the silver bracket in place of the instrument panel bracket that has to be cut? I am trying to think how I can get the bajan boot on the back with that bracket there.

I managed to bite into the ignition wires with my saw. Noticed it when the engine started chugging over. It's not too bad, should be able to seal it back with tape. I cant tell if it quick releases behind the key switch. If so, it would be easy to replace the entire harness, which I may do in the future.

 

[Ezgoin]

EZ... can you take a pic of how you attached the silver bracket in place of the instrument panel bracket that has to be cut? I am trying to think how I can get the bajan boot on the back with that bracket there.

I managed to bite into the ignition wires with my saw. Noticed it when the engine started chugging over. It's not too bad, should be able to seal it back with tape. I cant tell if it quick releases behind the key switch. If so, it would be easy to replace the entire harness, which I may do in the future.

Well, that sucks that you nipped the ignition wire bundle! I did the same thing! Very minor nick on my part, but enough that I removed the ignition switch, cleaned up the wiring, and soldered the wire where it was nicked. I also used a shrink seal over the repair to keep any moisture out! It was pretty simple to just pull the ignition fixture out so that’s what I’d recommend. Just have to remove the big nut around the key hole. Hard to imagine Rugged couldn’t provide some simple instructions with the kit and a warning about the ignition wire bundle located right where you have to cut the cubby! Irresponsible on their part!
As for the Baja Cover, I can try and get a pic, but essentially the supplied (silver) bracket mounts from the rear of the radio to the remainder of the molded plastic behind and above the radio. The Baja Cover is just stretched over the rear of the radio/intercom including the bracket where it mounts to the radio. I sinched a zip tie around the whole thing as added security to hold the Baja Cover in place. I’ll try and take a pic tonight.

 

[jamesh]

Well, that sucks that you nipped the ignition wire bundle! I did the same thing! Very minor nick on my part, but enough that I removed the ignition switch, cleaned up the wiring, and soldered the wire where it was nicked. I also used a shrink seal over the repair to keep any moisture out! It was pretty simple to just pull the ignition fixture out so that’s what I’d recommend. Just have to remove the big nut around the key hole. Hard to imagine Rugged couldn’t provide some simple instructions with the kit and a warning about the ignition wire bundle located right where you have to cut the cubby! Irresponsible on their part!
As for the Baja Cover, I can try and get a pic, but essentially the supplied (silver) bracket mounts from the rear of the radio to the remainder of the molded plastic behind and above the radio. The Baja Cover is just stretched over the rear of the radio/intercom including the bracket where it mounts to the radio. I sinched a zip tie around the whole thing as added security to hold the Baja Cover in place. I’ll try and take a pic tonight.

Well, I'm glad you nicked your ignition wire. Now I don't feel so bad, lol!

So that plastic nut on the front actually unscrews? I thought it was for appearance. Good to know. You've been very helpful for my install.

 

[Ezgoin]

Well, I'm glad you nicked your ignition wire. Now I don't feel so bad, lol!

So that plastic nut on the front actually unscrews? I thought it was for appearance. Good to know. You've been very helpful for my install.

Here’s a couple pics of the Baja Cover and how the Rugged Radio bracket mounts to the back of the radio and the molded support.

 

[jamesh]

Here’s a couple pics of the Baja Cover and how the Rugged Radio bracket mounts to the back of the radio and the molded support.

View attachment 173398 View attachment 173399

Thank you. It's a real PIA getting in there to attach the bracket and ground to the back of the radio and intercom. I'm trying to do it without removing the entire inner dash, but you have to be a contortion artist to do it. I'm going to pick up a stubby screw drive today and I think that will do the trick. I should get the boot in tonight. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the install and it's pretty clean. I decided to just run the antenna cable straight up the front pillar and on back. If it ever gets snagged, I can replace it and opt to relocated it at that time.

Also...I was going to order the low profile bezel, and they told me on the phone it had come with it. Turns out it did not. I'm wondering how necessary the bezel is? You can attach the intercom face with no bezel and there is a rubber seal around the inside. I suppose the bezel might at a little more protection, like flashing of a sort...I have it in without the bezel right now and like the way it looks.

 

[jamesh]

So I got everything in. Last night I tested it out with the antenna sitting in the mag mount since I didn't have the roll cage clamp yet. Set it down in the bed ungrounded and everything seemed good. Today, I mounted the antenna to the roll bar, grounded it and also grounded the radio and intercom to the chassis (RR actually told me grounding the radio and intercom to the chassis wasn't always necessary, but recommended).

Now, on certain channels, the PTT button kills the engine and/or makes indicator lights for oil or whatever show up on the cluster. Doesn't happen with the antenna disconnected from the end of the antenna cable. So now I need to look into getting a half wave antennae. Super glad you posted your experience with this @Ezgoin.

 

[HondaRed16]

That's cool, good deal.

Don't key the mic to test it without the antenna connected or a dummy load, you can cause immediate damage to the radio they won't warranty.

Make sure your antenna mount even if it's magnetic is grounded you should be fine.
If you do decide to use a roof mount magnetic on top put a pie pan piece of metal under it and ground that as well, it will make a huge difference on performance and longevity.

 

[jamesh]

That's cool, good deal.

Don't key the mic to test it without the antenna connected or a dummy load, you can cause immediate damage to the radio they won't warranty.

Make sure your antenna mount even if it's magnetic is grounded you should be fine.
If you do decide to use a roof mount magnetic on top put a pie pan piece of metal under it and ground that as well, it will make a huge difference on performance and longevity.

Well shoot I didn't know you could damage it keying up without the antenna connected. I did that briefly maybe half a dozen times...

 

[PaulF]

Thank you. It's a real PIA getting in there to attach the bracket and ground to the back of the radio and intercom. I'm trying to do it without removing the entire inner dash, but you have to be a contortion artist to do it. I'm going to pick up a stubby screw drive today and I think that will do the trick.

Just remove the cowling behind the hood. It is only a few bolts and push pins and takes 5 minutes to remove (as long as you don't have a full windshield).

One word of caution!! Once I got my whole system installed and ready to go, I did the first functional test with the engine running. As soon as I pushed the Push To Talk button the engine died and it died pretty much every time I pushed the buttons.

Now, on certain channels, the PTT button kills the engine and/or makes indicator lights for oil or whatever show up on the cluster. Doesn't happen with the antenna disconnected from the end of the antenna cable. So now I need to look into getting a half wave antennae. Super glad you posted your experience with this @Ezgoin.

I too experienced problems with the 1/4 wave antenna. Originally thought about mounting it in the middle of the roof with a ground plane and initially tested it there and all was fine but it looked odd because the angle of the roof so I ended up just behind the driver and BAM, engine dies, relays clicking, dash lights flashing and my DynoJet display looses all data. This 60 watt radio plays havoc with the Talon PCM when the antenna is too close to the PCM.

Emailed RR and they FedExed me out a 1/2 wave at no charge. In fact, I bought 6 units so they are sending me 6 new antennas. RR customer service is top notch!

 

[jamesh]

Just remove the cowling behind the hood. It is only a few bolts and push pins and takes 5 minutes to remove (as long as you don't have a full windshield).





I too experienced problems with the 1/4 wave antenna. Originally thought about mounting it in the middle of the roof with a ground plane and initially tested it there and all was fine but it looked odd because the angle of the roof so I ended up just behind the driver and BAM, engine dies, relays clicking, dash lights flashing and my DynoJet display looses all data. This 60 watt radio plays havoc with the Talon PCM when the antenna is too close to the PCM.

Emailed RR and they FedExed me out a 1/2 wave at no charge. In fact, I bought 6 units so they are sending me 6 new antennas. RR customer service is top notch!

I did remove the cowling, but the black part in the middle sticks out directly above the radio location and you'd have to remove the entire front dash to remove it, since they are one piece.

Good to hear about the Antenna. I've got mine all the way in the back of the 4 seater. I'm going on a ride tomorrow and was hoping to have the radio functional for the ride. Oh well.

 

[jamesh]

@PaulF did you get the antennas and see of the work yet? There is another guy on FB that has tried different antennas with no luck.

 

[HondaRed16]

I did remove the cowling, but the black part in the middle sticks out directly above the radio location and you'd have to remove the entire front dash to remove it, since they are one piece.

Good to hear about the Antenna. I've got mine all the way in the back of the 4 seater. I'm going on a ride tomorrow and was hoping to have the radio functional for the ride. Oh well.

Just glue a pie pan bottom to the roof and use your mag mount, or put the mag mount on the bumper, you'll be able to talk if they don't get to far away from you. The higher the better for transmit but you can hear for miles.

 

[jamesh]

Just glue a pie pan bottom to the roof and use your mag mount, or put the mag mount on the bumper, you'll be able to talk if they don't get to far away from you. The higher the better for transmit but you can hear for miles.

Lol, I'd like to try a few things out before going ghetto fabulous and start gluing kitchenware to the car. I could consider getting a much shorter cable and mounting to the front bumper though...

 

[PaulF]

I did remove the cowling, but the black part in the middle sticks out directly above the radio location and you'd have to remove the entire front dash to remove it, since they are one piece.

Good to hear about the Antenna. I've got mine all the way in the back of the 4 seater. I'm going on a ride tomorrow and was hoping to have the radio functional for the ride. Oh well.

I guess I am a contortionist, I find it fairly easy to work on once the cowling was removed.

I don't get the antennas until tomorrow (according to FedEx) but the package is still in CA and it looks like it might not be here until Monday. Besides that, RR was out of SWR meters so I need to rustle one up to make sure I am tuned properly.

RR "claims" that the 1/4 wave can be used without a Ground Plane but after much reading, I am doubting that it will work very well (if at all) without a GP. It is a Laird antenna and they make no mention of using their 1/4 without a GP. What RR is sending me is the Laird 1/2 NGP antenna and these are designed to be used without a GP. We will see how well they work and if I can even get an SWR below 1.5.

On a side note, are you testing inside a building or near any large obstructions? If you are, move the machine outside clear of any buildings and other obstructions (make sure you are at least 30 feet away from anything including other people), make sure you are in the machine and test again.