P1000 Seat heat and frame failure solved!

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0860silverado

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Hello everyone. My P1K-3 has been a reliable machine thus far but it has made me realize that these aren't refined machines like our Fords, Chevys and Rams are. My latest problem is with the frame failure. My bed will no longer open or close because of the frame sagging in the middle. It hits my rear panel. I've yanked it open a couple times to check my oil level but to close it, it's nearly impossible. I do have a high amount of miles (almost 1000) so I'm not complaining. I will admit that while working, I ran across a section of "washboard board" road. By the time I braked I probably hit it at 20 mph! I've ran across this dozens of times in my truck and it can rattle your teeth!!! That may be what bent my frame which I know wouldn't be under warranty. Anyways... I removed the front bed panel to fix the bed lifting/closing problem and I noticed the cab being a whole lot cooler! It seems like it breaks the vaccuum between the cab and engine. I'm gonna install hardware cloth (ok...chicken coop) on the front of my bed to keep tools in place. I'll post pics. Hope this helps.
 
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Rambo

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Hello everyone. My P1K-3 has been a reliable machine thus far but it has made me realize that these aren't refined machines like our Fords, Chevys and Rams are. My latest problem is with the frame failure. My bed will no longer open or close because of the frame sagging in the middle. It hits my rear panel. I've yanked it open a couple times to check my oil level but to close it, it's nearly impossible. I do have a high amount of miles (almost 1000) so I'm not complaining. I will admit that while working, I ran across a section of "washboard board" road. By the time I braked I probably hit it at 20 mph! I've ran across this dozens of times in my truck and it can rattle your teeth!!! That may be what bent my frame which I know wouldn't be under warranty. Anyways... I removed the front bed panel to fix the bed lifting/closing problem and I noticed the cab being a whole lot cooler! It seems like it breaks the vaccuum between the cab and engine. I'm gonna install hardware cloth (ok...chicken coop) on the front of my bed to keep tools in place. I'll post pics. Hope this helps.
Hello everyone. My P1K-3 has been a reliable machine thus far but it has made me realize that these aren't refined machines like our Fords, Chevys and Rams are. My latest problem is with the frame failure. My bed will no longer open or close because of the frame sagging in the middle. It hits my rear panel. I've yanked it open a couple times to check my oil level but to close it, it's nearly impossible. I do have a high amount of miles (almost 1000) so I'm not complaining. I will admit that while working, I ran across a section of "washboard board" road. By the time I braked I probably hit it at 20 mph! I've ran across this dozens of times in my truck and it can rattle your teeth!!! That may be what bent my frame which I know wouldn't be under warranty. Anyways... I removed the front bed panel to fix the bed lifting/closing problem and I noticed the cab being a whole lot cooler! It seems like it breaks the vaccuum between the cab and engine. I'm gonna install hardware cloth (ok...chicken coop) on the front of my bed to keep tools in place. I'll post pics. Hope this helps.


Just an fyi, I was talking with my dealer and he brought up an instance where a person came in with a bent frame and they covered it under warranty. Thought it may be worth a shot.
 
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Boomboom907

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Dude. 1000 miles is not a high amount of miles..... Holy s***. That's nothing. You should not be satisfied with a 16k dollar purchase lasting 1000 miles before your frame bends.

I would highly recommend warranty work. Seriously. They may give you a new machine altogether, idk, but you should not be happy with that performance with such few miles.

These rigs should last 10k miles minimum. The frame sagging isn't going to get you there.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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0860silverado

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Dude. 1000 miles is not a high amount of miles..... Holy s***. That's nothing. You should not be satisfied with a 16k dollar purchase lasting 1000 miles before your frame bends.

I would highly recommend warranty work. Seriously. They may give you a new machine altogether, idk, but you should not be happy with that performance with such few miles.

These rigs should last 10k miles minimum. The frame sagging isn't going to get you there.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I was thinking the same thing about the miles. Seems low to me too. But then I figured maybe they were designed for riding 10 or so miles per week around the farm x 52 weeks = 520 miles per year x 2 years and then haul 'em to the landfill. I think I'll call my dealer and see if they are remotely interested in a repair under warranty. If so, I'll have to put it all back together. Ugh! I've been doing so much work on this thing trying to get it right and now this! Killi'n me. Thanks guys. I'll keep y'all posted.
 
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0860silverado

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I was thinking the same thing about the miles. Seems low to me too. But then I figured maybe they were designed for riding 10 or so miles per week around the farm x 52 weeks = 520 miles per year x 2 years and then haul 'em to the landfill. I think I'll call my dealer and see if they are remotely interested in a repair under warranty. If so, I'll have to put it all back together. Ugh! I've been doing so much work on this thing trying to get it right and now this! Killi'n me. Thanks guys. I'll keep y'all posted.
Could someone with a P1K-3 equipped with a Honda hard rear panel please measure the gap between the window and the bed at it's closest position? (Slightly raised). I'm curious to know how much sag my frame has. When I lift up on the middle of the bike with a utv jack, my bed moves away from the window enough to close without hitting. Just trying to see where that frame is supposed to be. Thx in advance.
 
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elkguide

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I only have 120 miles on my P1K-3 and I have never used the dump. I just went out to the shop and raised the bed and it just slightly brushes the hard back window.
 
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0860silverado

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I only have 120 miles on my P1K-3 and I have never used the dump. I just went out to the shop and raised the bed and it just slightly brushes the hard back window.
Thanks so much for taking the time to check into that and reply! That actually eases my mind a bit. I was worried that it was suppoed to be a 1/2" gap or something! As you can imagine, when it was new, I had no reason to pay attention to the gap. Mine wouldn't hit at all when new but it must have been very very close. Now I think my frame is ok. It just needed to stretch and settle. But why...OH WHYYY.. would Honda design it that way???!!! I'm convinced--- There was absolutely zero real world testing done during developement of this model.
Here's my fix. I'm gonna put the front of the bed back on and trace along the metal frame under the top lip that catches the window with a silver sharpie and then remove it and cut it. That'll open up an inch or so gap. I'll make a note of the gap when done to keep track of my frame health. Thanks again sir!!
 
pgiannetto65

pgiannetto65

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I have a hard rear panel too and my bed rubs it when I lift it up since the day I got it installed (1 year ago)


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pgiannetto65

pgiannetto65

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Aff34685c0bfc094dd52c687c56b490f
I took this off a few months back to relieve the heat issue


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0860silverado

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View attachment 47141
I took this off a few months back to relieve the heat issue


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Hey thanks for the reply! I took mine off too. Someone suggested to put a heat shield under the front of the bed to protect it from engine heat. I haven't done it yet but probably will.
 
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Boomboom907

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I was thinking the same thing about the miles. Seems low to me too. But then I figured maybe they were designed for riding 10 or so miles per week around the farm x 52 weeks = 520 miles per year x 2 years and then haul 'em to the landfill. I think I'll call my dealer and see if they are remotely interested in a repair under warranty. If so, I'll have to put it all back together. Ugh! I've been doing so much work on this thing trying to get it right and now this! Killi'n me. Thanks guys. I'll keep y'all posted.
God. If these sxs only last 2 years nobody would ever get one. They should last ten years.

I know a dude with the same ranger 6x6 from 2000

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0860silverado

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God. If these sxs only last 2 years nobody would ever get one. They should last ten years.

I know a dude with the same ranger 6x6 from 2000

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
If I get ten years out of this thing I'll be ecstatic!!!!
 
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matt33

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Dude. 1000 miles is not a high amount of miles..... Holy s***. That's nothing. You should not be satisfied with a 16k dollar purchase lasting 1000 miles before your frame bends.

I would highly recommend warranty work. Seriously. They may give you a new machine altogether, idk, but you should not be happy with that performance with such few miles.

These rigs should last 10k miles minimum. The frame sagging isn't going to get you there.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
+1. These machines have a longer oil change interval than 1,000 miles. This is the first I've heard of a bent frame. I have taken washed out and very bumpy dirt roads and trails way faster than 20 MPH. I just hit 800 miles on my Pioneer last night and it seems to be shifting smoother and riding better than when it was new.
 
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0860silverado

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+1. These machines have a longer oil change interval than 1,000 miles. This is the first I've heard of a bent frame. I have taken washed out and very bumpy dirt roads and trails way faster than 20 MPH. I just hit 800 miles on my Pioneer last night and it seems to be shifting smoother and riding better than when it was new.
And I hadn't heard of clutch failures until the first time I heard of them...doesn't mean they aren't happening. Being that there are no adjustments available to the bed hinges, or even the possibility of loose bolts (they're welded), anyone with any understanding of geometry would be able to figure out that my frame has indeed bent. Maybe just a little, and maybe within tolerance, but it is a different shape from when it was new because now my bed hits my window and it didn't when it was new. That's why I asked about the gap on other owners' machines. Turns out it's a design flaw of the bed front (or the rear panel accessory - whichever part you want to blame) that has an easy fix. Two other members graciously helped answer my question ( thanks elkguide and pgiannetto65 ) before you chimed in. I'm glad that you are happy with your Pioneer.
 
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0860silverado

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View attachment 47170

Or diving off the river banks. Still not bent that I know of. Maybe the 5 seater cage adds rigidity?
Wow! Looks like a fun ride! Thanks for your input. I'm convinced that my frame is ok. Turns out it's just an oversight in the design of the unit's compatibility when a rear panel is installed. Honda should've tested these components together before releasing them. If it were an aftermarket generic "one size fits all window", I'd understand. But it's like buying a brand new Accord and after a few months of driving it the trunk lid starts hitting the back window when you open it. I thought something was very very wrong!!!
 
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joeymt33

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Wow! Looks like a fun ride! Thanks for your input. I'm convinced that my frame is ok. Turns out it's just an oversight in the design of the unit's compatibility when a rear panel is installed. Honda should've tested these components together before releasing them. If it were an aftermarket generic "one size fits all window", I'd understand. But it's like buying a brand new Accord and after a few months of driving it the trunk lid starts hitting the back window when you open it. I thought something was very very wrong!!!

I understand. I would be upset about it too. I don't have those options on my vehicle so I can't tell you if mine has moved even a little bit.


CP: I've been saying that since that jack wagon was picking Legos from his turds:)
 
ghost

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If the the hard mid panel is not installed correctly, there will be a lot of rubbing with the dump bed.
I have the P5 and I skipped the last step of the hard panel install and had lots of rubbing. Didnt want to drill holes if I didnt have too. Then I pulled out the drill and finished the install properly - no rubbing. I noticed a P3 at the dealer that rubbed alot - pretty sure they skipped a step too (drill and bolt)
Also if something is pushing on the panel from the other side it will rub (like my vent lines on first attempt)
 
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0860silverado

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If the the hard mid panel is not installed correctly, there will be a lot of rubbing with the dump bed.
I have the P5 and I skipped the last step of the hard panel install and had lots of rubbing. Didnt want to drill holes if I didnt have too. Then I pulled out the drill and finished the install properly - no rubbing. I noticed a P3 at the dealer that rubbed alot - pretty sure they skipped a step too (drill and bolt)
Also if something is pushing on the panel from the other side it will rub (like my vent lines on first attempt)
Hmmmm... Interesting. My rig was set up by my dealer, including the rear panel. I had to correct a couple other screw-ups that they made on the accessories for the machine. I felt and looked around between the interior of the panel and the cage to see if there was anything creating a space between them that was pushing the panel out. I didn't see anything and that part of the panel is really rigid. No room for flexing. I didn't get the instruction sheet to see if it was done correctly. Do you (or anyone else) know where I can get a copy of installation instructions for this panel? It may not be Honda's oversight but rather a dealership oversight. And thank you for an helpful response!!!
 
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