P500 Second Battery

[trigger]

Been thinking about adding a second battery. Searched the old threads and could only find the ones that guys installed the Blue Sea switch. That thing is expensive and would make me rerun all my wiring. The thing is, I don't think I need an isolator. Those are for running accessories with the engine off. The stator should handle everything when the engine is running, if not, it'll draw on the battery.
Why not just wire a deep cycle battery in parallel? Essentially, just giving more capacity. Am I missing something?
I'm thinking under the driver's seat, I don't use it for storage or anything anyway.

 

[Admin]

 

[JTW]

I would suggest either getting rid of the factory battery altogether, for a larger deep cycle under the seat, or go with a dual battery with the true isolator and be done with it.

 

[trigger]

I would suggest either getting rid of the factory battery altogether, for a larger deep cycle under the seat, or go with a dual battery with the true isolator and be done with it.

Deep cycles don't have the CCA needed in cold weather. My thinking is one battery for CCA and the other for power storage. I read somewhere, someone said that I really don't need a second battery if I only run everything when the engine is on. Don't know how much the stator puts out but I'm running a lot of sh**.

 

[Buford]

I just bought a Warn [HASHTAG]#77977[/HASHTAG] dual battery control kit on ebay. Got it for about $120 off retail ($163), cheapest price I could find.

 

[JTW]

Deep cycles don't have the CCA needed in cold weather. My thinking is one battery for CCA and the other for power storage. I read somewhere, someone said that I really don't need a second battery if I only run everything when the engine is on. Don't know how much the stator puts out but I'm running a lot of sh**.

I'd go with a true isolator setup then.. I think the stator on the 1000 is 40 amp? @CumminsPusher. I would bet money you can find a good deep cycle that will have the needed CCA. You know these little stock batteries aren't going to be much.

 

[trigger]

I'd go with a true isolator setup then.. I think the stator on the 1000 is 40 amp? @CumminsPusher. I would bet money you can find a good deep cycle that will have the needed CCA. You know these little stock batteries aren't going to be much.

They make those dual purpose batteries now, don't know if that just means a little thicker plates inside or what. Wiring them in parallel just makes them as one fat battery.

I just bought a Warn [HASHTAG]#77977[/HASHTAG] dual battery control kit on ebay. Got it for about $120 off retail ($163), cheapest price I could find.

Just read the specs on that, says there is a manual override to force a parallel connection when extra power is needed. The only purpose I see for an isolator is running stuff with the engine off. My concern is over drawing the stator and draining on the little start battery.

 

[Montecresto]

To compensate for the reduced CCA's of the deep cycle battery I upsized from a 16 AH to a 36 AH when I did my dual battery install.

 

[Rockriver]

Been thinking about adding a second battery. Searched the old threads and could only find the ones that guys installed the Blue Sea switch. That thing is expensive and would make me rerun all my wiring. The thing is, I don't think I need an isolator. Those are for running accessories with the engine off. The stator should handle everything when the engine is running, if not, it'll draw on the battery.
Why not just wire a deep cycle battery in parallel? Essentially, just giving more capacity. Am I missing something?
I'm thinking under the driver's seat, I don't use it for storage or anything anyway.

Most winches can pull enough current that they can virtually kill an engine. Most guys don't have the patients to wait for the battery to charge to get them unstuck! If the current draw exceeds the output of the stator generator and you don't have a battery isolator it will rob the voltage from the engine. If the winch kills your engine then you are really stuck!! That is the main reason for a True battery isolator.

 

[CURTK]

Most winches can pull enough current that they can virtually kill an engine. Most guys don't have the patients to wait for the battery to charge to get them unstuck! If the current draw exceeds the output of the stator generator and you don't have a battery isolator it will rob the voltage from the engine. If the winch kills your engine then you are really stuck!! That is the main reason for a True battery isolator.

Now I get why you guys do all this battery stuff, fear of losing the ability to start it with no backup. How often did that happen prior to switching over? Obviously once is one too many times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Montecresto]

Now I get why you guys do all this battery stuff, fear of losing the ability to start it with no backup. How often did that happen prior to switching over? Obviously once is one too many times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just once but I had my hot spot with me.

 

[trigger]

I'm still not sold on the idea of needing an isolator for what I'm doing. This leads to another question...when wiring batteries in parallel, if both batteries are wired to a bus bar/power block, wouldn't that be wiring them in parallel? Why run one battery to the other if you have fat cables running from both to the bus bar? Constant connection, drawing from both right?

 

[ohanacreek]

I'm still not sold on the idea of needing an isolator for what I'm doing. This leads to another question...when wiring batteries in parallel, if both batteries are wired to a bus bar/power block, wouldn't that be wiring them in parallel? Why run one battery to the other if you have fat cables running from both to the bus bar? Constant connection, drawing from both right?

What's the amp capacity of the bus bar?

 

[trigger]

What's the amp capacity of the bus bar?

150 amp.

 

[ohanacreek]

150 amp.

Winch can draw 300 amps. Easy overload that bus bar. If you can, winch connected straight to battery, preferably to a circuit breaker first would be much better.

 

[trigger]

Winch can draw 300 amps. Easy overload that bus bar. If you can, winch connected straight to battery, preferably to a circuit breaker first would be much better.

So I need a bigger bus bar?

 

[Montecresto]

I'm still not sold on the idea of needing an isolator for what I'm doing. This leads to another question...when wiring batteries in parallel, if both batteries are wired to a bus bar/power block, wouldn't that be wiring them in parallel? Why run one battery to the other if you have fat cables running from both to the bus bar? Constant connection, drawing from both right?

Yes, that will work as long as you understand both batteries will charge and discharge at the same rate and amperages on everything are properly matched.

 

[JTW]

I'm still not sold on the idea of needing an isolator for what I'm doing. This leads to another question...when wiring batteries in parallel, if both batteries are wired to a bus bar/power block, wouldn't that be wiring them in parallel? Why run one battery to the other if you have fat cables running from both to the bus bar? Constant connection, drawing from both right?

Who's wiring both batteries to one buss bar? For $50 you can add a battery isolator and not have to worry about it. Sure, you can wire them in parallel, but why? I don't think it's as much a "need" on a lot of this stuff.. as it is just better safer ways of doing things.

 

[Deleted member 3748]

So I need a bigger bus bar?

This is why you bought that fancy jump starter.

 

[Rockriver]

I'm still not sold on the idea of needing an isolator for what I'm doing. This leads to another question...when wiring batteries in parallel, if both batteries are wired to a bus bar/power block, wouldn't that be wiring them in parallel? Why run one battery to the other if you have fat cables running from both to the bus bar? Constant connection, drawing from both right?

You are correct in that this is wired in parallel. The main issue gets technical. All the wiring needs to be large enough to handle the current draw due to voltage drop. The connections need to be large enough to accommodate the load and not create a high resistance connection which can heat up. Makes sure you use heavy gauge wire, minimum #6 and compression style connectors. This is one of the times in life where bigger defiantly is better! It is a good idea to use a terminal grease at all your connections to avoid corrosion. Batteries in parallel are positive to positive, negative to negative. This provides twice the amperage at 12 volts. Be careful if you have long pulls on the winch as this will heat up all the wiring, connections and batteries.

 

[Deleted member 3748]

One of my hobbies is playing with solar power. I have a 100 watt panel connected to a charge controller and a deep cycle battery with the standard DC inverters doing stuff in my garage. It's a good lab for playing with scenarios like this.