P1000 SPAL HIGH PERFORMANCE COOLING FAN 19030-HL4-A01

BigOL3

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I've only ever removed 1 radiator on a P1K and that was for a frame job. But I dont believes there's anyway to do so without taking the front fender off. Which is honestly not as bad as it sounds.
After physically looking at the fan/shroud behind the radiator, it appears everything ABOVE it would have to be removed to get to it. Am I missing something? Will the panel below the hood, that contains battery and 12V connections have to be removed, or is there a 'work around' to avoid that?
 
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After physically looking at the fan/shroud behind the radiator, it appears everything ABOVE it would have to be removed to get to it. Am I missing something? Will the panel below the hood, that contains battery and 12V connections have to be removed, or is there a 'work around' to avoid that?
It'll be loose in the front from taking apart everything you need to get the grille free. You won't need to remove the lower hood assembly. If you look at the picture @ToddACimer posted you can see the lower hood assembly stays in place but the entire black plastic grille assembly will need to be taken off.
 
ToddACimer

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It'll be loose in the front from taking apart everything you need to get the grille free. You won't need to remove the lower hood assembly. If you look at the picture @ToddACimer posted you can see the lower hood assembly stays in place but the entire black plastic grille assembly will need to be taken off.
With all the fasteners out, there's room to move it around and work behind the radiator. This is a photo from working on my intake and front bumper but you can see how much room youd have to access. The radiator moves forward at least 6" with the overflow bottle removed

IMG 20200608 120929 01
 
BigOL3

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With all the fasteners out, there's room to move it around and work behind the radiator. This is a photo from working on my intake and front bumper but you can see how much room youd have to access. The radiator moves forward at least 6" with the overflow bottle removed

View attachment 206836
Good deal, thanks for the info.
 
H

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After physically looking at the fan/shroud behind the radiator, it appears everything ABOVE it would have to be removed to get to it. Am I missing something? Will the panel below the hood, that contains battery and 12V connections have to be removed, or is there a 'work around' to avoid that?

It's easier to just remove the colored part with the grill attached. Take both doors off, outer fender flares and then pull the wiring out of th way.

Half hour to remove the parts at the most.
 
Bradley-Thornton

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With the VP cool down from post 2. It helped but it still hit 3 bars but it did way less and not for a long.
 
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BigOL3

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It's easier to just remove the colored part with the grill attached. Take both doors off, outer fender flares and then pull the wiring out of th way.

Half hour to remove the parts at the most.
Colored part?? You mean the red 'under hood's that contains battery, etc? Does it need to be completely loose? I hope not, or I will have to remove windshield and maybe top! I have the 2 bolts that are in front of tool kit out, are the 6 plastic rivets near windshield all left holding it?3024c5a05f16a0c09b602f336c3b1187

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BigOL3

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I assumed when I got to this point, I would see the rivets holding the black plastic grill ..... surprise, surprise ..... dont see them! Any info on how to take it off is appreciated.B424b8e248a04ee4c4e29f121f967dd2

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ToddACimer

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I assumed when I got to this point, I would see the rivets holding the black plastic grill ..... surprise, surprise ..... dont see them! Any info on how to take it off is appreciated.View attachment 207217

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There are 5 Phillip's screws holding each headlight housing. There are also 2 m6 bolts on each side for the headlight mounting bracket
 
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BigOL3

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There are 5 Phillip's screws holding each headlight housing. There are also 2 m6 bolts on each side for the headlight mounting bracket
OK, I guess I wrongly assumed the headlights were not actually attached to the grill. I thought they were just held in place by that frame bracket. I will start back at that point Thurs, if I get caught up on work. Thanks.
 
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ToddACimer

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While I was waiting, I have started adding some ventilation to the TC bumper. Hope it will be enough to help.View attachment 207223

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It's a little late now but from a strength standpoint and for easy of cutting, an array of round 1" holes may have been quicker and easier but more importantly it wouldn't have the potential stress concentration of the rectangular cutouts.
 
BigOL3

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It's a little late now but from a strength standpoint and for easy of cutting, an array of round 1" holes may have been quicker and easier but more importantly it wouldn't have the potential stress concentration of the rectangular cutouts.
I had concern of sticks entering the radiator if 1" holes were use. I will NOT have any rectangle cutout. It simply will be straight narrow cuts (less than 1/8" wide) about 1" apart, so as to allow air, but no sticks. Top and bottom of cuts will still be intact.
 
H

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Colored part?? You mean the red 'under hood's that contains battery, etc? Does it need to be completely loose? I hope not, or I will have to remove windshield and maybe top! I have the 2 bolts that are in front of tool kit out, are the 6 plastic rivets near windshield all left holding it?View attachment 207216

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With your windshield it could be more involved. But yes the red plastic panel with the grill and healdights can be removed on 1 piece. I never take the h/l buckets off. Take the 4 bolts out of the h/l mount bracket and it'll come with the front fender and grille.
 
BigOL3

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There are 5 Phillip's screws holding each headlight housing. There are also 2 m6 bolts on each side for the headlight mounting bracket
I found and removed 3 of the phillip screws, and finally was able to see the forth one, and have yet to see the 5th screw. IF my arms were about 4.5' long WITH and eyeball attached to a finger, I MIGHT could reach/see how to remove/reinstall the other 2 screws ....... lol. That not being the case, I think I will finish putting vents in the TC bumper, install another fan under the seat and leave it at that. To totally remove the top plastic with grill and lights attached, I would first have to totally remove my windshield and top AND undo a lot of the 12V wiring. I think I will pass on all that. No doubt, if this was done to begin with before adding a bunch of accessories it would have been much simpler.
 
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I found and removed 3 of the phillip screws, and finally was able to see the forth one, and have yet to see the 5th screw. IF my arms were about 4.5' long WITH and eyeball attached to a finger, I MIGHT could reach/see how to remove/reinstall the other 2 screws ....... lol. That not being the case, I think I will finish putting vents in the TC bumper, install another fan under the seat and leave it at that. To totally remove the top plastic with grill and lights attached, I would first have to totally remove my windshield and top AND undo a lot of the 12V wiring. I think I will pass on all that. No doubt, if this was done to begin with before adding a bunch of accessories it would have been much simpler.
That eyeball on a finger on a 4.5' arm was hysterical to me!
 
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ToddACimer

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The one you can't see is on top of the headlight in the center of the light. I'll be the first to admit, I left those out after dropping 2 of the screws and they disappeared.
 
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Bradley-Thornton

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What I'm working on as far as over heating.

 

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