Multi Stinger vs. True isolators?

[BeerMonkey]

So ive gotten more interested in doing a secondary battery after going to start my machine and having no juice . Ive looked around for just small gel cell battery and can get them for fairly cheap <40$. after looking at isolators it brings me to my question. What is the difference between the True Isolator and the Stinger?
Stinger...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HC6UJ0?tag=sxsweb24-20

TrueAM...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W4QO5F4/?tag=sxsweb24-20

I see that the stinger is limited to 80amps, which i am well under for my acc load. The True doesnt specify. Is the True worth the 40$ difference?

 

[CumminsPusher]

So ive gotten more interested in doing a secondary battery after going to start my machine and having no juice . Ive looked around for just small gel cell battery and can get them for fairly cheap <40$. after looking at isolators it brings me to my question. What is the difference between the True Isolator and the Stinger?
Stinger...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HC6UJ0?tag=sxsweb24-20

TrueAM...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W4QO5F4/?tag=sxsweb24-20

I see that the stinger is limited to 80amps, which i am well under for my acc load. The True doesnt specify. Is the True worth the 40$ difference?

The stinger style takes more juice to stay connected for one. They also have a poor life. The worst part though is they connect the battery immediately on key so if you’re accessory battery is low it immediately shares the juice from start battery. Same while running if you use too much juice it’ll pull both batteries down at once. I look at the smart iso as it’s own unit that only takes “extra” voltage the main battery doesn’t need because it’s full charged as it’s based off of voltage of the start batt first. The Stinger will take juice away anytime the key or switch is on.
Totally worth the extra cash, especially dealing with smaller batteries

 

[BWAF]

The stinger style takes more juice to stay connected for one. They also have a poor life. The worst part though is they connect the battery immediately on key so if you’re accessory battery is low it immediately shares the juice from start battery. Same while running if you use too much juice it’ll pull both batteries down at once. I look at the smart iso as it’s own unit that only takes “extra” voltage the main battery doesn’t need because it’s full charged as it’s based off of voltage of the start batt first. The Stinger will take juice away anytime the key or switch is on.
Totally worth the extra cash, especially dealing with smaller batteries

Couldn't have put it any better .I put stinger after second battery on 2nd added fuse box on the acc. I didn't want on unless the key was on and put the true isolater in between the two batteries .

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[CumminsPusher]

Couldn't have put it any better .I put stinger after second battery on 2nd added fuse box on the acc. I didn't want on unless the key was on and put the true isolater in between the two batteries .View attachment 83775

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View attachment 83776

Works good for that application!

 

[JTW]

I have both on mine.. the stinger acts as the master switch between my accessory battery and fuse panel. The true is right off the stock battery. And basically acts as a maintainer on the second battery when the machine is running. They’ve both been on 2 years and are doing fine.

 

[nbomar]

I’m only running the stinger and have been for 2+ years. My voltages definitely do some strange things but it’s always worked. I do keep a tender on it when not used much or the batteries get low from extended use with a lot of accessories on (radio, lights, winch, etc)


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[BWAF]

I have both on mine.. the stinger acts as the master switch between my accessory battery and fuse panel. The true is right off the stock battery. And basically acts as a maintainer on the second battery when the machine is running. They’ve both been on 2 years and are doing fine.

View attachment 83783

Very clean layout

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[Landman]

I have both on mine.. the stinger acts as the master switch between my accessory battery and fuse panel. The true is right off the stock battery. And basically acts as a maintainer on the second battery when the machine is running. They’ve both been on 2 years and are doing fine.

View attachment 83783

Similar to mine...

 

[BeerMonkey]

I’m only running the stinger and have been for 2+ years. My voltages definitely do some strange things but it’s always worked. I do keep a tender on it when not used much or the batteries get low from extended use with a lot of accessories on (radio, lights, winch, etc)


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What kind of funny things?

 

[Gumby]

Landman,

What is the thick black wire on the right side with the blue tape on it? It almost feels like a battery terminal connector but I haven't taken the tape off. I have the same thing on my new 18 and have no idea why it's there.

 

[Tramguage1]

The black wire is for use when adding a winch contactor. It's just and extra ground.

 

[Tramguage1]

I only use the isolator, my accessory fuse block is always hot/on. I did this so I could run any accessory with the key off. Of I were to leave something on the isolator will open the connection between the batteries and just run down the 2nd battery. The main/starting battery would always be protected from draining if something was accidentally left on.

 

[Landman]

Landman,

What is the thick black wire on the right side with the blue tape on it? It almost feels like a battery terminal connector but I haven't taken the tape off. I have the same thing on my new 18 and have no idea why it's there.

What Mr. @Tramguage1 said, factory ground for the winch.

 

[nbomar]

What kind of funny things?

When you use the winch for instance both batteries drop drastically. Even though the winch is isolated. They seem way more connected than I originally thought.


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[RedFred1]

I used a moose isolator kit...

Moose Utilities Battery Isolator Kit | UTV Action Magazine

Good for 140 amps, not that my system will see that between the batteries, but the higher current capabilities are an extra measure of safety.

I think these units are a generic brand as I have seen them rebranded under several names.

These units call for circuit protection on both sides of the isolator. I used 80 amp circuit breakers.

FredD