Multi Strapping down your SxS

dnjones161

dnjones161

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So I looked up a couple of videos of people installing the etrack.... are you guys using lag bolts when you put these in?

The installs I saw looks like they were just using quarter inch wood screws every other hole up and down the length of the track? Maybe a bolt on each end? That seems iffy....
 
Shadesmn

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So I looked up a couple of videos of people installing the etrack.... are you guys using lag bolts when you put these in?

The installs I saw looks like they were just using quarter inch wood screws every other hole up and down the length of the track? Maybe a bolt on each end? That seems iffy....
Our 16' trailer we used lag bolts into the 2x8 decking. On my 12' aluminum I used 1/4" stainless bolts washers and nylocks. We spaced our fasteners out every 1 1/2' or so on both applications so I have no concerns of load strength on them.
 
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Vikes79

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So I looked up a couple of videos of people installing the etrack.... are you guys using lag bolts when you put these in?

The installs I saw looks like they were just using quarter inch wood screws every other hole up and down the length of the track? Maybe a bolt on each end? That seems iffy....


In my enclosed trailer e-track I used self tapping metal screws on the holes that lined up with the stringers, and 1.5” treated deck screws in every single hole that wasn’t over a stringer.
 
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Cuoutdoors

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In my enclosed trailer e-track I used self tapping metal screws on the holes that lined up with the stringers, and 1.5” treated deck screws in every single hole that wasn’t over a stringer.
I did this same thing as well. Works great.

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JTW

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How well do the tracks work with different width vehicles. If you set it up for a stock pioneer then add offset wheels... do you need to move the tracks? Would assume so? I cant do the erickson system since my pioneer is never in the same place unless its the only thing on the trailer. Will probably just keep using the same method but im gonna look into some of the better straps that have been posted
Be nice if there was an attachment.. like a bar with sliding track locks so you could span side to side and then tie off to the bar. Then it wouldnt matter the width of the tracks you could just snap them in and it wouldn’t matter if it was a small mower or a car.
 
Kilo427

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Be nice if there was an attachment.. like a bar with sliding track locks so you could span side to side and then tie off to the bar. Then it wouldnt matter the width of the tracks you could just snap them in and it wouldn’t matter if it was a small mower or a car.

That would be fairly easy to fabricate
 
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77TOY

77TOY

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I too like the over the tire method, especially in an enclosed trailer where tie down angles are limited. Having said that, I have used single strap over the tire methods discussed here and will never do it again. Especially if your tires have rounded shoulders from tread to sidewall. Nothing like driving all day, getting to your destination, going to unload and find 1 or 2 straps fell off the side of your tire. How long have you been driving like that, and never saw it? Over the tire basketed straps are the way to go if you choose the tire method.
 
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Cuoutdoors

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I too like the over the tire method, especially in an enclosed trailer where tie down angles are limited. Having said that, I have used single strap over the tire methods discussed here and will never do it again. Especially if your tires have rounded shoulders from tread to sidewall. Nothing like driving all day, getting to your destination, going to unload and find 1 or 2 straps fell off the side of your tire. How long have you been driving like that, and never saw it? Over the tire basketed straps are the way to go if you choose the tire method.
I have had this happen in the back of my toy hauler. Luckily only a few things broke.

I found you have to tighten them "till there ain't no more" to really keep it in place. Haven't had an issue since. I have been looking at switching to wheel bonnets though.

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JTW

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I have had this happen in the back of my toy hauler. Luckily only a few things broke.

I found you have to tighten them "till there ain't no more" to really keep it in place. Haven't had an issue since. I have been looking at switching to wheel bonnets though.

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That’s what I would do if I were hauling it in an enclosed. I wouldn’t trust that single strap.
 
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Cuoutdoors

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That’s what I would do if I were hauling it in an enclosed. I wouldn’t trust that single strap.
The strap has rubber blocks to add grip but I still dont fully trust it. I add a couple "safety" straps just in case it does come loose again. So far so good though


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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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So I looked up a couple of videos of people installing the etrack.... are you guys using lag bolts when you put these in?

The installs I saw looks like they were just using quarter inch wood screws every other hole up and down the length of the track? Maybe a bolt on each end? That seems iffy....
Remember that all that’s holding it is the threads in the wood and over time those holes can weaken.

I put grade8 5/16” bolts and washers with lock nuts about ever other hole except where the tires were so for about the front 3’ and rear 3’ it’s every predrilled hole in the track through a ¼” flatbar on the underside. I went through the trailer frame where possible.

Maybe overkill but I don’t have that worry of did I do it well enough if I have a wreck or stop really fast.
 
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dnjones161

dnjones161

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Remember that all that’s holding it is the threads in the wood and over time those holes can weaken.

I put grade8 5/16” bolts and washers with lock nuts about ever other hole except where the tires were so for about the front 3’ and rear 3’ it’s every predrilled hole in the track through a ¼” flatbar on the underside. I went through the trailer frame where possible.

Maybe overkill but I don’t have that worry of did I do it well enough if I have a wreck or stop really fast.

This sounds more like the way we would have to go if we ever went this route. It just blows my mind that there are videos out there suggesting that standard screws are enough to secure the track. Of course everybody gives the caveat "the track is only as good as it is secured to the trailer"... Which to me makes the 2000lb rating next to useless imo.

I think we will ultimately look at adding a couple of the lay flat type d-rings or welding a few extras on the trailer frame. It really only gets tricky between the wheel wells anyhow. Everywhere else the stake pockets are a plenty.
 
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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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This sounds more like the way we would have to go if we ever went this route. It just blows my mind that there are videos out there suggesting that standard screws are enough to secure the track. Of course everybody gives the caveat "the track is only as good as it is secured to the trailer"... Which to me makes the 2000lb rating next to useless imo.

I think we will ultimately look at adding a couple of the lay flat type d-rings or welding a few extras on the trailer frame. It really only gets tricky between the wheel wells anyhow. Everywhere else the stake pockets are a plenty.
Go the route that works safest for you and what you’re hauling.

To clear up my choice my track is rated at 6000lbs per piece and I have 2 pieces each side. It’s very tedious to drill the holes and get under the trailer to install but I have mine bolted through 4 boards, those boards are bolted down better than the others, and the etrack also has bolts going through the crossmembers.

I’ve seen it put down with deck screws and people using those cheap $5 for a 4 pack of 500lb rated tie down to hold a 2000lb sxs. Tiedowns should be rated for what you’re tying down, the Ericsson’s are rated at 1500lbs of vehicle per pair which is why I use all 4 instead of just a pair. I feel like mine is close to the border line of safety even with the ratings of the tiedowns all exceeding what the trailer is rated to carry. The way a lot of people tow things scares me. Physics is a cold hearted bastard.
 
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JTW

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Go the route that works safest for you and what you’re hauling.

To clear up my choice my track is rated at 6000lbs per piece and I have 2 pieces each side. It’s very tedious to drill the holes and get under the trailer to install but I have mine bolted through 4 boards, those boards are bolted down better than the others, and the etrack also has bolts going through the crossmembers.

I’ve seen it put down with deck screws and people using those cheap $5 for a 4 pack of 500lb rated tie down to hold a 2000lb sxs. Tiedowns should be rated for what you’re tying down, the Ericsson’s are rated at 1500lbs of vehicle per pair which is why I use all 4 instead of just a pair. I feel like mine is close to the border line of safety even with the ratings of the tiedowns all exceeding what the trailer is rated to carry. The way a lot of people tow things scares me. Physics is a cold hearted bastard.
Yeah.. we have these discussions on what’s the best way to haul.. but very few have put this to the real test. My s*** is tied down in a way where it’s NOT going to come in the cab with me in a catastrophic instance!
 
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ohanacreek

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Yeah.. we have these discussions on what’s the best way to haul.. but very few have put this to the real test. My s*** is tied down in a way where it’s NOT going to come in the cab with me in a catastrophic instance!

That’s my goal to keep it on the trailer and out of the back seat of some bad we’re to happen.
 
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Fastbuck101

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I want to do over the tire someday. I was always thinking of recessed rings on the floor of my aluma but I always end up hauling a buddy's wheeler or cooler or something and my trailer floor would end up looking like swiss cheese trying to have a ring for every combination of loads.

Does etrack include mounting specs so that it's anchored well enough for all load locations? I mean does it require a crapload of holes or what?

When you're using just straps to the frame remember, electrical tape is your best freind. We have a couple of guys that go through straps like crazy on our trip to Canada. They don't get em tight enough, always seem to put their straps over sharp edges and never tape the hooks and loose strap tails. Which reminds me...

Get yourself or make straps that are the right length for your machine. Nothing worse than dealing with a big wad of extra strap for 900 miles.

Agree with Farmer on cutting extra off straps. I had a 2" strap end come loose & went under the trailer tire, damn near tore my tailgate off, in addition to some mad fishtailing. Still cleaning the britches.....
 
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1K5LE

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So I picked up three of these off Amazon "used" for $9 each (normally $35 each). All they had at the time. It looks like they were taken out of original packaging and thrown in a plastic bag. I'm guessing the original packaging was damaged or something. One ratchet is sticking but workable, other two are great.

Anyway, impressed with them fit to the LE wheels but haven't trailered yet. Good way not to load suspension. I plan on running two on front and using my trailer pin holes for regular ratchets on the back as I always have. Should be secure. Keep an eye out for them, I'd snag a 4th if I got a chance. Would be comfortable with a 500 but for the 1k I'll probably keep a regular strap or two on it just in case.

Black Widow Wheel Bonnets - 600 lb work / 1800 lb break
ATV WHL TIE  1
 
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Rockydog

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Someone asked me if it was recomened to leave p1000 in park or nuetral when hauling. I leave mine in park.


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hondabob64

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Here’s what I use! Louisiana Trailer Dog on my tilt trailer. I secure the front with my winch to a loop welded to the tongue. Rear is lockable & unable to be removed when locked.

BD68E242 D086 4028 ADC5 E1E3D7AB37FF
 
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