P1000 Sub-Transmission Oil change - Honda Pioneer 1000

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Kyle

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Jun 11, 2015
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How often do we need to change the sub trans oil? Is this done with every engine and dct oil change?
 
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Dasmoeturhead

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Yup, as per the manual. I did mine at the 1st service just because I had all the oil change tools out, and it's only a little over a quart of oil more, and the drain plug was easy to access. Piece of cake. By the way, the oil in the sub-trans that came out looked like new. Probably a waste of oil, but I really, really like clean oil in all my vehicles, and equipment.
 
dale5740

dale5740

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I was going to change mine but haven't yet! everyone was saying how perfectly clean it was and it isn't recommended so I figured Id wait till a year or so and change it then and see how dirty it was
 
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JohnyRingo

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When should you change the sub-transmission oil and filter for the first time?
 
sporttrac4x4

sporttrac4x4

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When should you change the sub-transmission oil and filter for the first time?
100 miles
then Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
 
jj88

jj88

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Great informative post, especially since, while doing my 1st service, I accidentally drained the sub-transmission oil 1st. Luckily I bought 8 quarts from my local Honda shop, so I had enough to fill oil and sub trans. Overall pretty easy to do, oil ans sub-tran, once you find everything, good way to get to know your machine.
 
Dallas

Dallas

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FWIW I just did my 100 mile oil change of the sub trans, engine, and DCT. After having the sub trans clatter under partial load and the rear diff whine, I picked up a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I've never been an additive guy at all and I've owned turned up diesels and Corvettes, just never saw the need. I added a few oz. of the Lucas to the sub trans and topped off my diffs (maybe 2oz added) and it's like a new machine. The sub trans clatter is completely gone and the diff whine is 50% of what it was. I wouldn't add it to the engine/DCT oil, but I'm happy with the improvement in the other areas.
 
shawshank63

shawshank63

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FWIW I just did my 100 mile oil change of the sub trans, engine, and DCT. After having the sub trans clatter under partial load and the rear diff whine, I picked up a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I've never been an additive guy at all and I've owned turned up diesels and Corvettes, just never saw the need. I added a few oz. of the Lucas to the sub trans and topped off my diffs (maybe 2oz added) and it's like a new machine. The sub trans clatter is completely gone and the diff whine is 50% of what it was. I wouldn't add it to the engine/DCT oil, but I'm happy with the improvement in the other areas.
Thanks for that good information Dallas. I'm headed to the store to get some lucas now. ( a note on the addative thing: I have recently purchased several small engine tools and toys both 2 and 4 cycle that were running erratic so I tried a fuel additive called mechanic in a bottle from home depot and every piece is purrin like a kitten now) Where and how did you "top off your diffs"?
 
utvmi

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way I saw it was if it was going to effect clutches and make them slip etc Id rather now than later
So have you had any problems ? I'm looking at the Fully Synthetic route with the MA2 rating for engine and sub trans and then 75W-140 for the diffs.
 
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utvmi

utvmi

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The noise i have is constant gear whine which gets louder as you speed up . It doesn't change in the different drive modes so it is not diff related. i believe it is in the subtrans gears.I read in my manual that using any other oils may cause clutch slippage and so i will keep using the gn4 but will go to 10w40 approved by manual.
Did the 10w40 help with the noise ?
Also going to the 10w40 oil when it arrives
 
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0860silverado

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I think it is likely the rear end that is whining, not the subtrans. And I don't think there are any clutches in the subtrans (just in the DCT).

Waylan
I think you're right. The only gear noise I hear from my sub trans is when it's in reverse. Much like a manual trans car in reverse. No way around that but it doesn't bother me. And yes...sub trans oil never touches clutches.
 
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Ericthered

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I'm thinking about adding Lucas to my subtrans too,not sure how much though.



My sub-transmission makes a lot of whine. For my first service I drained all 3 drains. Filled sub-trans with synthetic 75-140 and engine/dct with honda oil. Is quieter now. If sub-trans is just a gearbox, why put engine oil in it? Will let you know in a few years if it has any effect.

UPDATE: Thick gear oil in sub-trans is a no-go. Gears grind like the oil is holding the gears from shifting on the shaft. Oh well. Had to try. After 5 miles changed it back to Honda specs.
 
Last edited:
ch33br0h

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Hi There!
can anyone point me in a good direction to identify the part numbers for this drain plug and washer?
I'm putting in an order of all the little parts that can go wrong during maintenance and unless I'm going blind, here its not as easy to find the part numbers as it is in the oil change thread.

thank you!!!


EDIT:
I think I found them at the Rocky Mountain ATV web site.. but they are listed as 14MM...
can anyone confirm if these are the ones?

WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
Part# 94109-14000

BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
Part# 92800-14000
 
Last edited:
JACKAL

JACKAL

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Hi There!
can anyone point me in a good direction to identify the part numbers for this drain plug and washer?
I'm putting in an order of all the little parts that can go wrong during maintenance and unless I'm going blind, here its not as easy to find the part numbers as it is in the oil change thread.

thank you!!!


EDIT:
I think I found them at the Rocky Mountain ATV web site.. but they are listed as 14MM...
can anyone confirm if these are the ones?

WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
Part# 94109-14000

BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
Part# 92800-14000

Those are correct.
 
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0860silverado

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Hi There!
can anyone point me in a good direction to identify the part numbers for this drain plug and washer?
I'm putting in an order of all the little parts that can go wrong during maintenance and unless I'm going blind, here its not as easy to find the part numbers as it is in the oil change thread.

thank you!!!


EDIT:
I think I found them at the Rocky Mountain ATV web site.. but they are listed as 14MM...
can anyone confirm if these are the ones?

WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
Part# 94109-14000

BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
Part# 92800-14000
If I may chime in, use a torque wrench and tighten to spec at least the first few times until you "learn" how gently these plugs need to be snugged. The crush washers do the sealing and prevent plug backout so they really aren't very tight. I know of a couple guys that just "tightened 'er up" by feel and got themselves into some serious trouble!
 
JACKAL

JACKAL

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If I may chime in, use a torque wrench and tighten to spec at least the first few times until you "learn" how gently these plugs need to be snugged. The crush washers do the sealing and prevent plug backout so they really aren't very tight. I know of a couple guys that just "tightened 'er up" by feel and got themselves into some serious trouble!

To that same end we had a rash of P500 owners following torque specs on oil filter cover snapping off bolts in engine casing.

Judicious caution is advised either way.
 

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