P1000 Sub-Transmission Oil change - Honda Pioneer 1000

Hondasxs

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Cleaned up a few cross talks. This is the sub transmission thread, not the oil change thread.
Heed warnings about over tightening these bots. Learn to fell them out and feel stress points.
Stripping any of these bolts is not a easy fix.

*Adding parts #'s to post #1!

Cleaning up some talk about torq specs that bled over from the oil change guide.
See WARNINGS about oil filter cover bolts snapping off in the Motor/DCT oil change guide.
 
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Montecresto

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The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed when changing the oil. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!
  1. Engine Oil and Filter
  2. DCT Filter
  3. Sub Transmission
See Engine and DCT oil change guide -> HERE!
In this thread, we will ONLY be discussing the Sub-Transmission Oil drain and fill.
***WARNING - DO NOT DRAIN THE WRONG PLUG!***

Before we start it is important that you locate each drain and be able to tell which one is for what. There is 3 drains and they can be easily mixed up causing you draining the wrong one!
View attachment 10962

Tools needed:
  • A 17mm socket & ratchet.
  • Drain Pan to catch old oil.
  • Few shop rags.
  • Funnel with extended tube to reach into the fill hole. I use a version of this funnel from Walmart, it lets you turn the flow on and off as well as measured calibrations on the side: FloTool Measu-Funnel, 7pc - Walmart.com
Required Oil:
  • The Sub Trans requires the same type and weight of oil as the motor and DCT.
  • Recommended Oil - Pro Honda GN4 10w30, 4-Stroke Motor Oil - Buy Here
  • 1.27 US qt (1.2 liters) upon draining.
Additional parts you may need:
Note: Honda says replace the crush washer each time, most people do not!

Prepare the work area and the SxS:
Locate a safe and level spot to park the SxS.
DRIVE the SxS long enough to warm the engine. Around 5 minuets.
Drive to selected level spot.
Insure SxS is in park.
Turn off and remove key

Step 1: Remove the seat bottom where you will then be able to see and access the Sub-Transmission oil check dipstick / oil fill hole. It will be just off center more towards the passenger side for access and refill. Clean all dirt away from around the dipstick and remove it to improve draining oil flow.

View attachment 10723


Step 2: For draining the Sub-Transmission only remove the drain plug noted on the far left of the below image. It's bolt head is bigger (17mm) than both the Engine and DCT drain plug head (12mm) size. Situate a drain pan below the Sub-Transmission plug and remove it to drain the oil.

View attachment 10722

Step 3: Once all oil has been drained replace the drain plug using the same 17mm socket.

Step 4: Fill the Sub-Transmission with approx. 1.27 US quarts of specified oil using a suitable funnel.
Note: Sub-Transmission uses same type / viscosity oil as Engine/ DCT.

View attachment 10724

Step 5: Insert dipstick, (do not screw in) remove and check oil level, ensure oil level is between the high and low marks on the dipstick add oil as needed to achieve proper level.
[Add image of dipstick with proper oil level]

Step 6: If oil level is OK screw in dipstick and re attach seat base. Mission accomplished!

Now you are all set and ready to hit the trail.
Good luck and be safe.


Step 7: Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let us know. Not only does it show its use, it also bumps the post for other members to see and save some $$$ changing there own oil!

If you need further help please post below.

If you see a error, mistake or something out of order please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: We make no claims of accuracy. Please referee to the service manual for official details.
Yep, very helpful, thanks @JACKAL
 
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duramaxman05

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I changed everything on the first service. I put Lucas 75w140 synthetic in the diffs and it did quiet it down. I used gn4 10w40 in the engine, trans and sub trans. On my second service I am gonna use t6 5w40.
 
Dirtstiffs-1000

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FYI,
Over filling the subtransmission will cause the trans not to shift normally in/out of Low range.

Yes, I over filled it slightly and it wouldn't shift correctly until I drained and adjusted to within dipstick range.

I bought two 1 gallon bottles of oil and didn't pre measure. Hot and took a short cut.

Jim
 
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pgregory

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mystic synthetic blend 80-140 in the sub trans quietened whine tremendously for me......prolly by 80%!!!!!!
 
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JACKAL

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mystic synthetic blend 80-140 in the sub trans quietened whine tremendously for me......prolly by 80%!!!!!!

I would not recommend running that weight of oil when the mfg recommends 10w-30 GN4 motor oil. Although it may be quieter, it has different properties and long term use may incur negative effects with internals and seals, etc.
 
Hondasxs

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I would not recommend running that weight of oil when the mfg recommends 10w-30 GN4 motor oil. Although it may be quieter, it has different properties and long term use may incur negative effects with internals and seals, etc.
Agree.
While you could go with a little heavier oil, that choice is way too much. Your practically running rear end gear oil in a transmission. Not good.



Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Smitty335

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I would not recommend running that weight of oil when the mfg recommends 10w-30 GN4 motor oil. Although it may be quieter, it has different properties and long term use may incur negative effects with internals and seals, etc.
Kill Joy! HA!
 
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Spoonbill

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I know this thread is somewhat dated but I've been wanting to post this fo awhile. Has anyone used synthetic products ( Mobil 1) in the primary or subtranny??
 
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JACKAL

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I know this thread is somewhat dated but I've been wanting to post this fo awhile. Has anyone used synthetic products ( Mobil 1) in the primary or subtranny??


Sub-transmisson is less picky, however the engine with DCT and main transmission doesn't like molybdenum, it reduces friction of clutch friction plates and can cause them to glaze or slip in extreme situations. Once it slips its downhill from there.

That said if you use Mobile 1 synthetic for motorcycles with a wet clutch, that should be fine. Personally I stick to Honda GN4 and have never had an issue.
 
Leukic

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So the crush washers that I purchased from Honda dealer will NOT go over the bolt threads. It will be Tuesday before they are open again. Should I reuse the crush washer or wait till Tuesday and get the right size.
 
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Wellzy

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I know this thread is somewhat dated but I've been wanting to post this fo awhile. Has anyone used synthetic products ( Mobil 1) in the primary or subtranny??
My recent fluid change was exactly that. I had two gallons of Honda GN4 10w-40 so that went in the engine. For the diffs, I used Royal Purple 75-140. I was going to use the special Honda synthetic oil with Moly for the sub trans but could not get two quarts before I wanted to get it done. I am an avid Mobil 1 user and switched my sub trans to Mobil 10w-30.

My engine oil gets drained before it gets brown, but the three holes that get drained every two years are now full of synthetic.

View
 
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CID

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I find the 3D drawing of the 3 oil drain bolt's locations confusing at best. Although this is a Talon skid, the drain holes are in the same place.

1623678945257
 
PJon

PJon

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I recently changed oil in both diffs and sub-trans. Used Mobil 1 75w-140 in diffs and Mobil 1 20w50 in sub-trans. Noticeably quieter. Before anyone comes unglued and tells me that those viscosities are too heavy, please note that I’m in southern Arizona and it never gets very cold here. If it gets below 45 degrees, I’m probably not going to be riding anyway.
 
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