P1000 Sub-Transmission Oil change - Honda Pioneer 1000

[JACKAL]

The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed when changing the oil. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!

1. Engine Oil and Filter
2. DCT Filter
3. Sub Transmission

See Engine and DCT oil change guide -> HERE!
In this thread, we will ONLY be discussing the Sub-Transmission Oil drain and fill.
***WARNING - DO NOT DRAIN THE WRONG PLUG!***
Before we start it is important that you locate each drain and be able to tell which one is for what. There is 3 drains and they can be easily mixed up causing you draining the wrong one!


Tools needed:

• A 17mm socket & ratchet.
• Drain Pan to catch old oil.
• Few shop rags.
• Funnel with extended tube to reach into the fill hole. I use a version of this funnel from Walmart, it lets you turn the flow on and off as well as measured calibrations on the side: FloTool Measu-Funnel, 7pc - Walmart.com

Required Oil:

• The Sub Trans requires the same type and weight of oil as the motor and DCT.
• Recommended Oil - Pro Honda GN4 10w30, 4-Stroke Motor Oil - Buy Here
• 1.27 US qt (1.2 liters) upon draining.

Additional parts you may need:
Note: Honda says replace the crush washer each time, most people do not!

• WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM) Part# 94109-14000
• BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (14MM) Part# 92800-14000

Prepare the work area and the SxS:
Locate a safe and level spot to park the SxS.
DRIVE the SxS long enough to warm the engine. Around 5 minuets.
Drive to selected level spot.
Insure SxS is in park.
Turn off and remove key

Step 1: Remove the seat bottom where you will then be able to see and access the Sub-Transmission oil check dipstick / oil fill hole. It will be just off center more towards the passenger side for access and refill. Clean all dirt away from around the dipstick and remove it to improve draining oil flow.

Step 2: For draining the Sub-Transmission only remove the drain plug noted on the far left of the below image. It's bolt head is bigger (17mm) than both the Engine and DCT drain plug head (12mm) size. Situate a drain pan below the Sub-Transmission plug and remove it to drain the oil.

Step 3: Once all oil has been drained replace the drain plug using the same 17mm socket.

Step 4: Fill the Sub-Transmission with approx. 1.27 US quarts of specified oil using a suitable funnel.
Note: Sub-Transmission uses same type / viscosity oil as Engine/ DCT.

Step 5: Insert dipstick, (do not screw in) remove and check oil level, ensure oil level is between the high and low marks on the dipstick add oil as needed to achieve proper level.
[Add image of dipstick with proper oil level]

Step 6: If oil level is OK screw in dipstick and re attach seat base. Mission accomplished!

Now you are all set and ready to hit the trail.
Good luck and be safe.


Step 7: Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let us know. Not only does it show its use, it also bumps the post for other members to see and save some $$$ changing there own oil!

If you need further help please post below.

If you see a error, mistake or something out of order please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: We make no claims of accuracy. Please referee to the service manual for official details.

 

[Admin]

 

[Bayouownbeer]

The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed when changing the oil. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!
...................................

Good job on post! Thanks. Make job lot easier knowing what size tools to have ready.

 

[joeymt33]

Great how to! Thank you very much.

As a side note, I painted my subtrans plug when I performed the first oil change so I wouldn't make that mistake.

 

[ghost]

These guides are great.
Might be handy to have to torque settings. Just got myself a new torque wrench - gotta get my money's worth out of it

 

[Buckrocker]

I changed my oil last weekend.
Got to admit the first oil change was a little confusing. Had to refer to owners manual a couple of times to make sure I had it right.

 

[Hondasxs]

Thanks to @sporttrac4x4 for helping clarify some things.

 

[dale5740]

Great how to! Thank you very much.

As a side note, I painted my subtrans plug when I performed the first oil change so I wouldn't make that mistake.

so to change the engine oil u actually remove the middle and rear drain plugs both?

 

[JACKAL]

so to change the engine oil u actually remove the middle and rear drain plugs both?

Yes, one is the oil pan under the crankcase and the other is the DCT case both share the same supply of oil.

 

[dale5740]

just making sure great oil change article thanks for your time

 

[ghost]

I forgot to unscrew the dipstick before draining - thats ok it does not need any extra help to drain fast LOL.
The torque for the drain bolt is 22 ft-lb . When I removed mine, it had 2 compression washers and was much tighter than 22ft-lb .
Here’s what came out.



Not bad I guess but I’m glad I drained this on the first service rather than wait till the recommended 2 years.
I used Royal Purple Max Cycle 10w40 since its gonna be in there for 2 year (maybe). Hope that's a good choice for this machine. The manual says 10w40 is ok.

 

[DTAGG]

Not sure how to create a new thread but was wondering about how to quiet down the gear noise under load on the subtransmission? i am sure everyone has this question and wanted to see if there is any success in using additives ?

 

[ghost]

I was a bit surprised - after I put in the royal purple 10w40 the machine seemed quieter. Guess it makes sense - slightly thicker, synthetic.
It was not black and white difference but I thought - "wow that sounds good now"

It was 2 days after my first service - which had its improvement in noise. GN4 in the engine.

 

[DTAGG]

I was a bit surprised - after I put in the royal purple 10w40 the machine seemed quieter. Guess it makes sense - slightly thicker, synthetic.
It was not black and white difference but I thought - "wow that sounds good now"

It was 2 days after my first service - which had its improvement in noise. GN4 in the engine.

thanks for the info. i am going to try some . i just hope i don't get any slippage. my pioneer runs so good and i don't want to create any issues.

 

[dale5740]

I was a bit surprised - after I put in the royal purple 10w40 the machine seemed quieter. Guess it makes sense - slightly thicker, synthetic.
It was not black and white difference but I thought - "wow that sounds good now"

It was 2 days after my first service - which had its improvement in noise. GN4 in the engine.

why not synthetic in engine?

 

[dale5740]

thanks for the info. i am going to try some . i just hope i don't get any slippage. my pioneer runs so good and i don't want to create any issues.

subtrans oil is separate from clutches correct

 

[ghost]

thanks for the info. i am going to try some . i just hope i don't get any slippage. my pioneer runs so good and i don't want to create any issues.

Yeah - that's part of the reason I stuck with GN4 in the engine. My original idea was to go full synthetic but decide to keep the clutches on factory oil - till second service.

 

[dale5740]

way I saw it was if it was going to effect clutches and make them slip etc Id rather now than later

 

[Hawk53]

Is the gear noise coming from the sub trans or the trans ?

 

[DTAGG]

Is the gear noise coming from the sub trans or the trans ?

The noise i have is constant gear whine which gets louder as you speed up . It doesn't change in the different drive modes so it is not diff related. i believe it is in the subtrans gears.I read in my manual that using any other oils may cause clutch slippage and so i will keep using the gn4 but will go to 10w40 approved by manual.

 

[walexa07]

The noise i have is constant gear whine which gets louder as you speed up . It doesn't change in the different drive modes so it is not diff related. i believe it is in the subtrans gears.I read in my manual that using any other oils may cause clutch slippage and so i will keep using the gn4 but will go to 10w40 approved by manual.

I think it is likely the rear end that is whining, not the subtrans. And I don't think there are any clutches in the subtrans (just in the DCT).

Waylan