P1000 Sub-Transmission Oil change - Honda Pioneer 1000

[PJon]

Sounds perfectly reasonable to me. I do the same but use 4T Mobil Racing 10-40 in the Sub trans.
Quiet and shifts like butter.

I was going to use the 10w40, but all the parts store had was the 20w50 4T. When I change it the next time I’ll get them to pre order the oil for me. Also need to enlarge the drain hole in the SATV skid plate for the sub trans and one of the engine oil drains. Those two horizontal drain plugs will leave a Lake Mead size pool of oil on top of the skid plate. I’ll also be cutting a hole in the skid plate below the filters. Thought I was being real smart cutting the bottom off of the bottom of a quart oil bottle to put under the filters to catch the oil. Worked well for the DCT filter but when the main oil filter came off it was Lake Mead time again.

 

[Smitty335]

I was going to use the 10w40, but all the parts store had was the 20w50 4T. When I change it the next time I’ll get them to pre order the oil for me. Also need to enlarge the drain hole in the SATV skid plate for the sub trans and one of the engine oil drains. Those two horizontal drain plugs will leave a Lake Mead size pool of oil on top of the skid plate. I’ll also be cutting a hole in the skid plate below the filters. Thought I was being real smart cutting the bottom off of the bottom of a quart oil bottle to put under the filters to catch the oil. Worked well for the DCT filter but when the main oil filter came off it was Lake Mead time again.

I just stuff a bunch of rags in there?

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Fumoto drain valve.

Mine drains ok with minimal oil trapped in the skid. I just added Fumoto drain plug valves to a few diesel rigs last weekend with success, and I got the epiphany they could save the mess on the Pioneer. More to come if I can find valves that dont hang below the skid and fit the drain holes in the skid.
Guess others are taking the valve idea forward in another thread.
Good luck.

 

[PJon]

Fumoto drain valve.

Mine drains ok with minimal oil trapped in the skid. I just added Fumoto drain plug valves to a few diesel rigs last weekend with success, and I got the epiphany they could save the mess on the Pioneer. More to come if I can find valves that dont hang below the skid and fit the drain holes in the skid.
Guess others are taking the valve idea forward in another thread.
Good luck.

I thought about putting in banjo fittings with a plug in the bottom, but what I was able to find appeared too long. If you find a good solution for the problem please post. I hate to make the skid plate holes any bigger, but will still have to do some cutting for the filter draining. Maybe a metric hose barb with a shoulder for the crush washer and short piece of hose with a valve or plug that could be pulled out of the skid plate for oil changed would work.

 

[PJon]

I just looked at those Fumoto drain valves. Anyone remember what the metric threads are for the sub trans and the engine oil drain? That way I’d only have to make the big mess one more time.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

M12 and M14.
I think with 1.25 thread .
Memory not fact. Best to verify.

 

[JACKAL]

I thought about putting in banjo fittings with a plug in the bottom, but what I was able to find appeared too long. If you find a good solution for the problem please post. I hate to make the skid plate holes any bigger, but will still have to do some cutting for the filter draining. Maybe a metric hose barb with a shoulder for the crush washer and short piece of hose with a valve or plug that could be pulled out of the skid plate for oil changed would work.

Not sure of the terrain you ride in, but even with a full UHMW skid and reinforced under frame my skids flex on the big rocks rubbing on the engine / sub trans casings occasionally. Some people have even busted the casings from hitting too hard.

That said ANYTHING that sticks out further or below the OEM bolt head, I would STRONGLY caution against it. Risking busting the case out at the drain hole from an impact is not worth the convenience of the fancy drain valve. Just my 2 cents worth hoping to help avoid a potential incident that could be expensive and leave you stranded.

 

[PJon]

Not sure of the terrain you ride in, but even with a full UHMW skid and reinforced under frame my skids flex on the big rocks rubbing on the engine / sub trans casings occasionally. Some people have even busted the casings from hitting too hard.

That said ANYTHING that sticks out further or below the OEM bolt head, I would STRONGLY caution against it. Risking busting the case out at the drain hole from an impact is not worth the convenience of the fancy drain valve. Just my 2 cents worth hoping to help avoid a potential incident that could be expensive and leave you stranded.

I appreciate your concern. Both of the drain plugs I’m concerned with are at least an inch and a half above the top of the skid plate (1/2” SATV) and all I can get on them now is a forefinger and thumb. If I go with any kind of valve, it will come straight out horizontally with a flexible hose connection on it. So far the only areas on my skid taking dings are on the outer tubes under the doors and those are the roughest trails we have around here.

 

[ch33br0h]

Changed my oil today....
Every time, I curse the world on why its so facking complicated to do what should be simple routine maintenance on the Pioneer.
Takes so much time and no matter how careful, some oil always escapes to make a mess....

Then comes that first ride.
Everything, butter smooth.

 

[bumperm]

I just looked at those Fumoto drain valves. Anyone remember what the metric threads are for the sub trans and the engine oil drain? That way I’d only have to make the big mess one more time.

Please do double check (and post here). Another post had it the P1000 takes two M12 X 1.5 (that would be the Futomo F109SX) and one M14 x 1.5 (the Fumoto F106SX).

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Please do double check (and post here). Another post had it the P1000 takes two M12 X 1.5 (that would be the Futomo F109SX) and one M14 x 1.5 (the Fumoto F106SX).

I agree after looking at parts list for both plugs. I think there are a couple of configurations.
F109 for the M12 X 1.5 engine and F106 for the M14 x 1.5 transmission also may work. Both have shorter chassis.

DISCLAIMER...TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

 

[PJon]

I agree after looking at parts list for both plugs. I think there are a couple of configurations.
F109 for the M12 X 1.5 engine and F106 for the M14 x 1.5 transmission also may work. Both have shorter chassis.

DISCLAIMER...TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Those sizes sound about right.

 

[Spoonbill]

Yeah - that's part of the reason I stuck with GN4 in the engine. My original idea was to go full synthetic but decide to keep the clutches on factory oil - till second service.

Could we expand a bit more on the Oil Type Issue? I am a huge fan of Mobil 1 Products..ANy options on using this?

 

[bumperm]

Could we expand a bit more on the Oil Type Issue? I am a huge fan of Mobil 1 Products..ANy options on using this?

You can use Mobil-1 Racing 4-T. It, as with the Honda oil, is designed for use with engines that have an integral wet clutch, as do many modern motorcycles AND the Pioneer.

 

[Spoonbill]

You can use Mobil-1 Racing 4-T. It, as with the Honda oil, is designed for use with engines that have an integral wet clutch, as do many modern motorcycles AND the Pioneer.

Thank you for the prompt reply. is there a synthetic option for the Subtransmission?

 

[PJon]

Thank you for the prompt reply. is there a synthetic option for the Subtransmission?

There are no clutches in the sub trans. Any high quality synthetic 10w-30 or 10w-40 should work well. Last time I changed mine I went a little nuts and actually used Mobil 1 racing T-4 20w-50. A little pricey, but works well for my riding conditions. During the winter I never ride under 40 degrees and summer riding is often over 100 degrees. Be sure to use an engine oil and not a gear oil.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Mobil 1 Racing 4T can be and is used by me in the Subtransmission

 

[Spoonbill]

There are no clutches in the sub trans. Any high quality synthetic 10w-30 or 10w-40 should work well. Last time I changed mine I went a little nuts and actually used Mobil 1 racing T-4 20w-50. A little pricey, but works well for my riding conditions. During the winter I never ride under 40 degrees and summer riding is often over 100 degrees. Be sure to use an engine oil and not a gear oil.

 

[Spoonbill]

Thanks so much for weighing in on this matter! I ride quite a bit in temps ranging from 10 F - 100 F I believe that viscosity might need to be adjusted a bit. I’ll look up the specs and adjust accordingly.

 

[HondaTech]

I may have mentioned this before but we do Honda Moly blend in our sub trans changes.

Even get Honda to pay for it on waranty rebuilds. 😁