SWITCHES/ELECTRICAL ISSUES

Remington

Remington

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let me start off that I suck at electrical. I find my out of the barn if the door was wide open lol.

ok. I bought new OTR switches. There 4 prong switches. I had 5 prong cheep Carlinhos before and I figured that I didn’t need the extra jumper for the ground so I’m good there. That said, my diagram fromOTR says #10 is to the dash circuit. My old wiring for that was to a 12v fused off my secondary battery. That’s not powering up my lower lights to the switches. We’re can I hook that up to to come on when I turn my headlights on?

now the most bezzar thing is when I turn my headlight switch on, key off, I’m getting the dog lights on and flashing. WTF is happening there? Never had that before? Is it my true isolator? my secondary battery is new this year, my old one lasted since 16’ this bugger is dead. There is nothing running on it but a volt meeter and has always been like that. Here’s a pic of the diagram and a vidga of the dash thing. Any insite to help my exploding mind in these things would help.
thank you.
Image

 
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BWAF

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let me start off that I suck at electrical. I find my out of the barn if the door was wide open lol.

ok. I bought new OTR switches. There 4 prong switches. I had 5 prong cheep Carlinhos before and I figured that I didn’t need the extra jumper for the ground so I’m good there. That said, my diagram fromOTR says #10 is to the dash circuit. My old wiring for that was to a 12v fused off my secondary battery. That’s not powering up my lower lights to the switches. We’re can I hook that up to to come on when I turn my headlights on?

now the most bezzar thing is when I turn my headlight switch on, key off, I’m getting the dog lights on and flashing. WTF is happening there? Never had that before? Is it my true isolator? my secondary battery is new this year, my old one lasted since 16’ this bugger is dead. There is nothing running on it but a volt meeter and has always been like that. Here’s a pic of the diagram and a vidga of the dash thing. Any insite to help my exploding mind in these things would help.
thank you.
View attachment 194780
Definitely have a back feed issue I've heard of it but never seen it think it has something to do with what wire you tapped on fuse box ,and @ Hondasxs makes a plug for head lights wire that will turn Accessory on
 
Remington

Remington

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Definitely have a back feed issue I've heard of it but never seen it think it has something to do with what wire you tapped on fuse box ,and @ Hondasxs makes a plug for head lights wire that will turn Accessory on
The only thing /fuse I’m tapped into is the fuse used per the instructions for the turn signals that I bought over the winter from @Hondasxs . The other area I’m tapped into is a wire under the dash from back in16’ I was told to for power to something? I’d have to look. Everything has been fine till now. I’ve looked the stuff over 50 times and traced. I think I’m seeing double and missing something lol
 
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Do you have anything on 10
 
Remington

Remington

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Do you have anything on 10
Sorry my rambling in the first post stated, easy to miss with all the info.
yes, it’s hooked up to my12v power and fused off of my secondary battery. That needs to come off and go to a key on power wire.

the reason it was that way was for my old switches
 
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Remington

Remington

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So when you take it off it's good?
Actually, what happened as I was fiddle farting around again, I looked over my wording again. I have 11 switches on my dash and a stereo. As I was running my wire to #2 I got it crossed somehow being there somewhat hidden behind the dash and headlight switch And that was what was causing the interference causing the dash to wack out.

bottom line is there are a lot of wires back there folks And even a organized OCD person like me can cross wires. Take your time, take a deep breath and double check your system, even if you have to label the wires like I did with a labeler. I think I’m good for now. Here’s some finished pics.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
 
BWAF

BWAF

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Actually, what happened as I was fiddle farting around again, I looked over my wording again. I have 11 switches on my dash and a stereo. As I was running my wire to #2 I got it crossed somehow being there somewhat hidden behind the dash and headlight switch And that was what was causing the interference causing the dash to wack out.

bottom line is there are a lot of wires back there folks And even a organized OCD person like me can cross wires. Take your time, take a deep breath and double check your system, even if you have to label the wires like I did with a labeler. I think I’m good for now. Here’s some finished pics.
View attachment 194840View attachment 194841View attachment 194842View attachment 194843View attachment 194844
Looks good and easy to do heres my mess and I've added more

20170901 114155
 
Remington

Remington

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Last edited:
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Remington

Remington

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I been wondering what back-feeding primary power circuit would do.
Glad you figured it out.
Thanks. I do have a question tho. On a simple on/off/auto switch for my radiator fan ( the harness you sell) your 2 wires the red& blue, where do they hook up on that switch for proper operation?
This is the little switch I have.
Image
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Thanks. I do have a question tho. On a simple on/off/auto switch for my radiator fan ( the harness you sell) your 2 wires the red& blue, where do they hook up on that switch for proper operation?
This is the little switch I have.
View attachment 194848
Yes,
Combine the RED and BLUE to one post to keep the AUTO function.
OR. Split them to turn the fan OFF, ON, or AUTO.
Red is the fan, Blue is the factory auto.
 
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BWAF

BWAF

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Is that some sort of transfer switch? That’s my kind of wiring set up lol.
Wait no... that’s for your Ham or something right?
Amp ,radio , buse bar, fuse box actually the ham radio interrupter is not in this picture but that's what I added
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Assuming it is 3 pin ON/OFF/ON switch.
I think this switch would be like this:
The Center would be the red wire to the fan.
Blue would be top pin.
and 12v power source would be the bottom pin.
 
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Remington

Remington

Deputy Fife POIDH Enforcement Officer
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Jul 24, 2016
18,352
104,638
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Michigan
Ownership

  1. 1000-5

  2. Talon X
Yes,
Combine the RED and BLUE to one post to keep the AUTO function.
OR. Split them to turn the fan OFF, ON, or AUTO.
Red is the fan, Blue is the factory auto.
Great thank you.
 
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Remington

Remington

Deputy Fife POIDH Enforcement Officer
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Jul 24, 2016
18,352
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Michigan
Ownership

  1. 1000-5

  2. Talon X
Assuming it is 3 pin ON/OFF/ON switch.
I think this switch would be like this:
The Center would be the red wire to the fan.
Blue would be top pin.
and 12v power source would be the bottom pin.
I think that’s how I have it wired. I’ll have to check. When I was at Taylor park last year it wouldn’t work in auto only off and on. I put a new switch in it tonight and I think that’s how I assumed it should be. I’ll have to pull it to check.
 
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Remington

Remington

Deputy Fife POIDH Enforcement Officer
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Jul 24, 2016
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Michigan
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  2. Talon X
Amp ,radio , buse bar, fuse box actually the ham radio interrupter is not in this picture but that's what I added
Fancy dancy! I like that . Thought it was gen transfer switch like I work on. But I seen your seat then thought 🤔
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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I think that’s how I have it wired. I’ll have to check. When I was at Taylor park last year it wouldn’t work in auto only off and on. I put a new switch in it tonight and I think that’s how I assumed it should be. I’ll have to pull it to check.
Ya, let me know so we can figure it out.
 
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