P1000 Trailering Long Distance - Tips, Tricks and other useful suggestions

[Hogwild]

I am looking at a trip where I will be trailering my P1000 Trail Edition for nearly 2000 miles round trip on and a flat open trailer . I am looking for tips and lessons learned on what to do and what not to do.

• Windshield, doors, mid panel - Do and Do Not Things to consider
• Tie downs best solutions or practices.
• E-Track Yes or no?
• Best things to bring
• Best things to leave at home
• Miscellaneous Knowledge sharing

 

[Admin]

 

[Jankyeye]

I like e track and tire bonnets.

 

[Hogwild]

I like e track and tire bonnets.

View attachment 402274

With the e track any installation or accessories you recommend? Which Bonet brand are you using?

 

[Scoop]

^^ This all day. And eTrack over the small Erickson mounts if you ever want to use your trailer for things other than the Pioneer.

Windshield down/closed. Don't load the buggy backwards with just a windshield.

Can't speak to the mid panel (assuming soft) or doors.

Check your trailer spare tire (condition/pressure/etc.). Grease trailer bearings. Have a jack and lug wrench for the trailer wheels, as well as basic tools in sizes for a quick trailer repair.

Don't overload the trailer nor exceed truck towing and hauling capacities. Make sure weight is distributed correct on the trailer, including correct tongue weight.

Don't get complacent while driving. Stop and stretch often.

 

[Jankyeye]

With the e track any installation or accessories you recommend? Which Bonet brand are you using?

Macs tie downs, 1/4x20 bolts with fender washer and nylon lock nuts every 4th hole or so. Harbor freight has best price on e track. I recommend galvanized vs painted.

Medium Adjustable UTV Tire Net Pack - Blue | Mac's Custom Tie-Downs

Medium Adjustable UTV Tire Net Pack - Blue

www.macscustomtiedowns.com

 

[Scoop]

Erickson wheel nets from etrailer.com

For the eTrack: Galvanized eTrack and hardware (combo of nut/washer/bolt and lag screws, all galvanized) from USCargoControl.com

Here's what I ordered for a 12' open trailer. Most holes have a screw or nut/bolt in it (likely overkill). Installed the 8' sections, then cut the 5' sections down to accommodate the length of the wood deck, including leaving room for the eTrack plastic end caps.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Rhino wheel chocks for UTV
They were just 25% off, so I bought 2 sets.

I have these in my cargo trailer, mounted so they can be removed and a button head remains, as they are anchored underneath to 3" flat bar, with heavy rivnuts.
I wanted to be able to remove as needed.

I have the Erickson setup on a couple other flat beds and they to work well, too.
I've found this to be the best and most trouble free way to tie my wheeler down.
Dirtstiff Pro tip: watch the front of your Honda top in the hot sun, while towing over 70..

 

[Hogwild]

^^ This all day. And eTrack over the small Erickson mounts if you ever want to use your trailer for things other than the Pioneer.

Windshield down/closed. Don't load the buggy backwards with just a windshield.

Can't speak to the mid panel (assuming soft) or doors.

Check your trailer spare tire (condition/pressure/etc.). Grease trailer bearings. Have a jack and lug wrench for the trailer wheels, as well as basic tools in sizes for a quick trailer repair.

Don't overload the trailer nor exceed truck towing and hauling capacities. Make sure weight is distributed correct on the trailer, including correct tongue weight.

Don't get complacent while driving. Stop and stretch often.

Scoop - Great list in line with what I have, only thing I have left is to grease the bearings. And remembering to rest & stretch often. I am bringing my power 1/2 drive impact wrench and tire inflator too! The doors and mid panel are soft. Going to keep speeds around 65.

 

[Hogwild]

Erickson wheel nets from etrailer.com

View attachment 402287

For the eTrack: Galvanized eTrack and hardware (combo of nut/washer/bolt and lag screws, all galvanized) from USCargoControl.com

Here's what I ordered for a 12' open trailer. Most holes have a screw or nut/bolt in it (likely overkill). Installed the 8' sections, then cut the 5' sections down to accommodate the length of the wood deck, including leaving room for the eTrack plastic end caps.

View attachment 402286

That is the list I need, I am going to add e track to the trailer, I like the options and tire bonnets for a better sense of security on the tie down!

 

[Scoop]

Oh ... check your straps each time you stop.

Also, once you have them set up on the wheels, mark them (Sharpie) LF, RF, LR, and RR. That way, you don't have to re-adjust them if you happen to put them on different sides or front/back.

 

[Hogwild]

Rhino wheel chocks for UTV
They were just 25% off, so I bought 2 sets.

I have these in my cargo trailer, mounted so they can be removed and a button head remains, as they are anchored underneath to 3" flat bar, with heavy rivnuts.
I wanted to be able to remove as needed.

I have the Erickson setup on a couple other flat beds and they to work well, too.
I've found this to be the best and most trouble free way to tie my wheeler down.
Dirtstiff Pro tip: watch the front of your Honda top in the hot sun, while towing over 70..
View attachment 402288

I will keep an eye on the top but I am hoping the sun not to hot, did you have an issue?

 

[someguy1313]

good stuff

 

[StewB]

The above is good information.
I chose not to use e-tracs because I haul other things and wanted to keep the trailer bed smooth and flat (no, can't countersink on the aluminum deck and wood will just sit and rot in snow and water all winter).

With ratchet straps, find tie downs on the outside of the a-arms low below the suspension. Try to have the straps come in at a flat angle, not straight up and down.
I've seen some tie jobs that had the machine's suspension bouncing straight up and down against the strap on the front bumper and trailer tie point. Not good.

 

[Hogwild]

The above is good information.
I chose not to use e-tracs because I haul other things and wanted to keep the trailer bed smooth and flat (no, can't countersink on the aluminum deck and wood will just sit and rot in snow and water all winter).

With ratchet straps, find tie downs on the outside of the a-arms low below the suspension. Try to have the straps come in at a flat angle, not straight up and down.
I've seen some tie jobs that had the machine's suspension bouncing straight up and down against the strap on the front bumper and trailer tie point. Not good.

I am in 100% agreement with you on the front bumper and or the trailer point. I am leaning towards tire bonnets! I have seen several where the suspension load is too much to keep the UTV tight and or they bounce and the straps work loose. I too like the bed smooth but I also haul motorcycles and the e trac would work well for that. Plus I do have a wood platform and between the sealant and a tarp it keeps it dry in the wet season when not in use(for my setup). Again more good info and experience. Thank you!

 

[JACKAL]

While all the above is great information, let's not forget what sucks. Flat tires or wheel bearings going out on a trip.

If your trailer tire are 3 years old + and sit outside in the sun you should seriously consider replacing them. Especially if they are. OEM China bombs that manufactures typically use as the cheapest cost to them.

Wheel bearings make sure they are well greased, no play or properly roll smoothly.

Nothing worse than being 500 miles from your destination on the side of the Interstate with a busted trailer.

 

[CID]

The above is good information.
I chose not to use e-tracs because I haul other things and wanted to keep the trailer bed smooth and flat (no, can't countersink on the aluminum deck and wood will just sit and rot in snow and water all winter).

With ratchet straps, find tie downs on the outside of the a-arms low below the suspension. Try to have the straps come in at a flat angle, not straight up and down.
I've seen some tie jobs that had the machine's suspension bouncing straight up and down against the strap on the front bumper and trailer tie point. Not good.

I agree that you don't want to pull the suspension down, none at all, it needs to work with the trailer's suspension. I also don't care for the E-track standing proud of the surface. I do need quite a bit of fore/aft adjustment between fully loaded for trips or mostly empty for day rides. This is where I've ended up. The biggest problem is that the axle strap D-ring buckles won't fit through many stock wheels.

I like the individual tire bonnets but didn't know about them before I came up with the ideas below which have worked well for many thousands of miles. I'd also need several tie down locations without E-tracks. Yes, doable but I'm happy with this.

Rear, forward for day rides and no fuel load up front.

Rear, full fuel load up front -

Front with no fuel. Also note that I'm tied high on the trailer, almost parallel with A-arm location, so no downward pull on the suspension. I'm also as close to the tire as possible so less suspension movement on the straps. The tails get run through the bumper, they don't ride on the spare.

With fuel -

There's no fuel where I ride, I have to carry it with me -

 

[Scrappapotamus]

While all the above is great information, let's not forget what sucks. Flat tires or wheel bearings going out on a trip.

If your trailer tire are 3 years old + and sit outside in the sun you should seriously consider replacing them. Especially if they are. OEM China bombs that manufactures typically use as the cheapest cost to them.

Wheel bearings make sure they are well greased, no play or properly roll smoothly.

Nothing worse than being 500 miles from your destination on the side of the Interstate with a busted trailer.

My daughter competed horses and we had 2 rigs hauling horses constantly, sometimes long distances. I've owned a construction company and currently sell equipment. I've had lots of experience hauling live and heavy loads. Anytime I buy a trailer, the first thing I do is either purchase one with adequate tie down points or add for the load you plan to haul. Tires are extremely important considering load range, dates and anything but Chinese crap. As I understand, Goodyear has the only range of trailer tires produced in the USA. Over the years I've experienced numerous tire failures, and always s***ty tires were the culprit. Usually a sidewall failure. So many overlook all of the simplest things which most certainly rear its' head when you least expect trouble. I'm amazed how many don't think about hitch drop?

 

[Hogwild]

I agree that you don't want to pull the suspension down, none at all, it needs to work with the trailer's suspension. I also don't care for the E-track standing proud of the surface. I do need quite a bit of fore/aft adjustment between fully loaded for trips or mostly empty for day rides. This is where I've ended up. The biggest problem is that the axle strap D-ring buckles won't fit through many stock wheels.

I like the individual tire bonnets but didn't know about them before I came up with the ideas below which have worked well for many thousands of miles. I'd also need several tie down locations without E-tracks. Yes, doable but I'm happy with this.

Rear, forward for day rides and no fuel load up front.
View attachment 402298

Rear, full fuel load up front -
View attachment 402299

Front with no fuel. Also note that I'm tied high on the trailer, almost parallel with A-arm location, so no downward pull on the suspension. I'm also as close to the tire as possible so less suspension movement on the straps. The tails get run through the bumper, they don't ride on the spare.
View attachment 402300

With fuel -
View attachment 402301

View attachment 402302

There's no fuel where I ride, I have to carry it with me -
View attachment 402303

That is making a solution that works, and getting the most out of the space you have. I have ridden is some remote high desert areas and there is no fuel or water near by (like within two hours plus drive). I like the concept of thought the rim ties!

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

I will keep an eye on the top but I am hoping the sun not to hot, did you have an issue?

We trailer the wheelers a lot from western Oregoneifornia to Wyoming and Montana. Going, we always have a tail wind. Coming back through the Columbia Gorge, we always have a fierce headwind. One trip with over a hundred degrees outside, I looked in the mirror at 75 only to notice the point of my top bending upward from the wind and heat...
Added flat bar, a clamp, bolt and rivnut to hold the nose down.
Bought a cargo trailer since then...

 

[Hogwild]

We trailer the wheelers a lot from western Oregoneifornia to Wyoming and Montana. Going, we always have a tail wind. Coming back through the Columbia Gorge, we always have a fierce headwind. One trip with over a hundred degrees outside, I looked in the mirror at 75 only to notice the point of my top bending upward from the wind and heat...
Added flat bar, a clamp, bolt and rivnut to hold the nose down.
Bought a cargo trailer since then...
View attachment 402305

Thanks a picture says all! Nice fix!