P1000 True isolator illuminated with key off

[ob1jeeper]

Help... Found main battery low, causing slpw crank until the backup battery kicked in. since then, the true isolator has remained illuminated, whether key is on or off. suspect there is a draw, but ALL accessories disconnected makes NO difference...

 

[Admin]

 

[TripleB]

Help... Found main battery low, causing slpw crank until the backup battery kicked in. since then, the true isolator has remained illuminated, whether key is on or off. suspect there is a draw, but ALL accessories disconnected makes NO difference...

The blue light stays on until it the main battery drops to a certain voltage and then it goes off.

 

[ob1jeeper]

Well I will be a monkey's uncle... Disconnecting either battery, nor the solenoid to operate the True made any difference... HOWEVER... When I disconnected BOTH batteries, the isolated shut down, and did NOT re-engage when batteries were re-connected... Go Figure...

 

[Hondasxs]

The blue light is not your problem at its 160mA draw.
It would take a month to run a decent battery dead if it was stuck on by chance.

What solenoid are you talking about? The only one that operates the TrueAm is inside it.

I'm afraid you misunderstand how the TrueAm works.
Its job is to protect one battery from feed draining the other.
Also, it will not "kick in" when cranking unless it was already on when you started to crank.
If you disconnect both batteries it should turn off.
If you disconnect one it could stay on depending on the charge of the connected battery.
It will not turn back on until one (either one) reaches an overcharged state.
I think 12.9-13v. Once either reaches this point (after 8 seconds +-) it will connect the 2 batteries.

 

[ob1jeeper]

The blue light is not your problem at its 160mA draw.
It would take a month to run a decent battery dead if it was stuck on by chance.

What solenoid are you talking about? The only one that operates the TrueAm is inside it.

I'm afraid you misunderstand how the TrueAm works.
Its job is to protect one battery from feed draining the other.
Also, it will not "kick in" when cranking unless it was already on when you started to crank.
If you disconnect both batteries it should turn off.
If you disconnect one it could stay on depending on the charge of the connected battery.
It will not turn back on until one (either one) reaches an overcharged state.
I think 12.9-13v. Once either reaches this point (after 8 seconds +-) it will connect the 2 batteries.

I may indeed mis-understand how it operates, or is SUPPOSED to operate. My impression of what value this system had, when I purchased it, was that it was designed to keep the main (cranking) battery from becoming discharged when the secondary (accessory) battery was operating accessories, and for the secondary battery to become available as a jumper battery, when the main battery becme too low to crank the engine. But it may be that I mis-understood it's function ...

The solenoid (relay) I am speaking about is the one tha tcame with the isolator kit.

FWIW: the isolator was not only illuminated with a "blue" color, it was warm to the touch. Having previously not removed the hood to expose the batteries and the isolator prior the "hard start"... I am unaware what the isolator's status was previously, other than to say that prior to attempting to start it folloiwng an approx 6-7 week period of inactivity, was that the voltages shown on the volt meter that came with the isolator unit, was showing approx. 12 VDC for BOTH batteries, BEFORE I attempted a crank following the non-use hiatus.

After returning home and approx. 4-5 starts to move the vehicle into position for installing recently purchased soft fabric doors, mirrors, and the mid-panel (and re-doing things I had already done but were now in the way for some of these new items), is when the "hard-start" occurred, accompanied by an audible "click" and corresponding increased vigor in the activation of the stater motor. Following that situation, I removed the hood and immediately noted the true isolator had turned blue, and thinking that perhaps the batteries had discharged, I placed them on a 6-amp charger overnight. Upon disconnecting from the battery charger, the True isolator remained "lighted" and warm to the touch...

I don't know how and when it is SUPPOSED to turn blue (I assume this means it is activated when this occurs), and when it is NOT supposed to do so... FWIW: it's been installed for over 4 months with no previous symptoms of a low battery, nor to my knowledge (since it is normally covered by the hood) with any previous instances of it staying" lighted & warm...

PS: Am hoping to not experience any further issues with this for the next week, as we are towing about 500 miles tomorrow for a week in SE Utah to do some exploring... Will try to read responses when I return, and will keep my fingers crossed, and eyes peeled for any additional issues. If necessary, I will simply discnnect the batteries every evening, and/or jump start it in the mornings.

 

[Ericthered]

Dealers aside my true isolator affects my main battery in less than 3 days. After that I have to jump myself with the secondary battery. I've had 2 new lithium batteries for 3 years now. With the batteries both having knobs to disconnect them both I haven't had a low battery since I installed the disconnects. The manufacturer can say what he wants, but the damn thing drains a battery so low it won't start the rig in 7 days. Happened to me on multiple trips. (rig stays in toyhauler) Now that I disconnect and light goes out everything works fine, even with months of no use between trips. So, buyer beware... salesmen lie.