P1000 True volt meter HELP

Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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You just need to pull it all off and set up a test following the TrueAM directions.

Do you happen to have a spare 12v battery so you can bench test it?

Eliminate the fuse boxed, bus bars, other items.
For key-on source. Just use battery positive.
For grounds battery negative.
For the 2 silver post on voltmeter use the same battery positive.

I'm only talking the relay and voltmeter. Dont unhook the isolator.
 
JAXXER

JAXXER

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Yes. I tried that and still no ground from the green- gotta be a bad relay I’m going to hit autozone and see if they have something comparable to test out
 
CID

CID

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Starting with a new automotive relay is the easiest way to confirm that's the problem and they're only a few dollars. If that doesn't work, we'll get into Analog VM 101. They aren't magic but neither are they intuitive.

The first steps - you can do this now, learn it and it'll help you forever. Again, I don't know what you know, so some of this is very basic but 'must know' stuff.
1. Find the AC and DC positions on the dial, we'll be using DC
2. Turn the dial to the lowest setting above 12 (volts). My small VM has 10, 50, 250 and 500, so I'd set mine to 50 (volts)
3. Plug the Red probe into the red port on the meter or (+), Black into black, COM or (-).
4. While watching the meter, touch the black probe to the negative terminal on the battery and quickly touch the red to positive. What we're looking for here is that the meter deflects upward and doesn't bounce backward - that would tell us the leads are backward or we're on the wrong battery terminals. Always start here, this is how we know if we're touching 12 volts (battery voltage)(+) or ground (-).
5. Now you can hold the black probe on a known Ground anywhere and touch wires looking for 12 volts (or Hot or Positive or voltage). Or you can touch the Red probe to a KNOWN voltage and 'look' for ground with the Black probe. This is what we'll be doing with the relay - and why I explained all this.

An example would be touching the black probe to a known ground, touching the red probe to Key On power, as you turn the key on and off, the meter needle should bounce with the key position showing that you have power. If it doesn't, that's not a Key On source or you've picked a bad ground (which is what I did when I tried to use the contactor mounting bolt).
 
JAXXER

JAXXER

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I went to O’Reilly auto parts and the kid there had no clue on a relay or if they even carried them lol he said without a part number nothing he can do. Do you know if one I can substitute to test it? They have an auto zone I can check out as well. But to be clear when I have the red wire from the relay connected to the battery and the black to ground on the battery when I use the probe and touch the green lead I should get some movement on the meter? Red probe to red wire on relay and black probe to green wire on relay? I get nothing when I do this, but I do get power when red probe on relay and black probe on black wire. Although I have been testing the socket as your pic had the portion that had the wire comming off it, I have not tested the box or relay if that matters?
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Its just a common 4 pin relay. Nothing special.
If the pins look like they are in the same position then it will work.
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Bench test for reference.
Can u set up a test like this?

I still think it is in your wiring as i have sold 200+ of these and not had any problems that were not due to user errors. 2fafea91445bb0ecd8c63c2f93f2705c
6f201d297f700d91eed7081802bd217aAeebdc21bdef0e262f088229b8409522
 
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JAXXER

JAXXER

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Thank you for all the replies, I contacted the seller and they sent a new relay and it works perfectly. It was a bad relay. Drove me crazy for a while, but all is well with the machine :)
 
Swampmonkey

Swampmonkey

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Guys, taking out the true am 2 in 1 voltmeter and putting in two blue sea systems voltmeters. Any suggestions on how to wire that up since I’ll have two volt meters to wire to instead of one? Thanks%
 
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Swampmonkey

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How would the true am wiring diagram come in to play on this?
 
CID

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If you're not selling the True parts, you can keep the relay and run both VM grounds to the relay, just like the True setup. Run both VM ground leads to the same relay terminal so when the relay operates, both VMs get grounded.
 
Swampmonkey

Swampmonkey

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Yeah, just wanting to know how to come off true am relay to both volt meters.
 
Swampmonkey

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So light green from one terminal to one meter, light green from other terminal to other meter then how should I wire green with white stripe from relay?
 
CID

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Yeah, just wanting to know how to come off true am relay to both volt meters.
Just splice the two VM ground wires together and a pigtail to the relay. Ground is ground, the world around (you don't have to have separate grounds).
 
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Swampmonkey

Swampmonkey

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Just making sure, green wire with white stripe from relay to negative on voltmeters?
 
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CID

CID

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Just making sure, green wire with white stripe from relay to negative on voltmeters?
That would be right and if you didn't cut it off earlier, there are two green/white wires out of the relay, one to each VM. 👍
 
CID

CID

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Guys, taking out the true am 2 in 1 voltmeter and putting in two blue sea systems voltmeters. Any suggestions on how to wire that up since I’ll have two volt meters to wire to instead of one? Thanks%
Why are you removing the True double VM, did it fail?
 
Swampmonkey

Swampmonkey

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Why are you removing the True double VM, did it fail?
Thanks. No it did not fail. Had some switch lights fail so changing everything to an amber color to match dash lights. Added a new switch plate to accommodate more switches and wanted better quality bigger voltmeter lights. Getting old and was getting harder to see the smaller two in one reading vm. Little bit of everything and a little ocd thrown in there.
 
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