The foam pre-filter on the snorkel tube make sense to me. If I had kept the Talon long enough to learn about the weakness of the oem system I would probably have gone to that system.@HBarlow - The problem is the Talon's intake location, it didn't work like Honda engineers thought it would. A stock Talon's filter will last from 250-600 miles and need replacement, they aren't cleanable and you can't blow them out with compressed air. So owners have to find alternatives. Another Talon specific problem is the somewhat complicated and easy to screw up, airbox. If you make a mistake, and whom among us hasn't, you suck dirt into your engine, a costly mistake as some R2C users are finding out.
Replacement Talon filters are about $43 so I'd have used 9-1/2 filters in 5700 miles costing $408.
About the slight hole mismatch on the Twin Air - knowing about it in advance, I'd just plan on ovaling the misaligned holes with a rattail file, no big deal in my mind. I think the problem is they fit 'too perfectly' and didn't allow for manufacturing tolerances, I can live with that. For me, the problem with the Twin Air, you still have to open the airbox to service.
@hondabob 's snorkel and Uni foam prefilter has been working perfectly for me for 5,699 miles, I'm still on the original stock filter and it looked brand new when I checked it at 25xx miles. Once you get over the 3" hole in a body panel, the advantages are undeniable - the prefilter is where you can see it and can be replaced quickly if you have a spare ready to go (I have 3, one on the buggy and 2 in zip lock bags). The details and parts needed (provided by hondabob) are in the post linked in my sig along with other basic Talon information.
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There's a coiled wire inside the Uni filter to hold its shape. Due to the 'top hat' on the air intake, I don't think you could get water into the airbox when washing if you tried.The foam pre-filter on the snorkel tube make sense to me. If I had kept the Talon long enough to learn about the weakness of the oem system I would probably have gone to that system.
I can't see the actual air intake part but the mesh on snorkel tube looks safe at a glance without risk of the engine eating the filter or restricting air flow. What prevents the foam from collapsing at high rpm?
I didn't own a Talon long enough or use it in dirty conditions enough to even change the air filter but I was unimpressed with the air (and water) intake opening when I washed it a couple of times.
I very much agree with H Barlow on the aftermarket air filter subject, I have never seen or tested an aftermarket air filter that I would trust, Honda has more money to do R&D on these types of subjects in their petty cash than those aftermarket air filter people do combined, stick with the factory components and service intervals and you cant do any better than that.I do recommend the Desertcraft Foam Buddy pre-filter. I've sold many of these since June. They are a simple to install pre-filter that fits inside the air box and extends the life of the OEM air filter. I was priveledged to be the test Talon for this product. The Desertcraft people are wonderful to work with!
Store link here
I very much agree with H Barlow on the aftermarket air filter subject, I have never seen or tested an aftermarket air filter that I would trust, Honda has more money to do R&D on these types of subjects in their petty cash than those aftermarket air filter people do combined, stick with the factory components and service intervals and you cant do any better than that.
I like this idea alot,I’m changing air filters every 200-400miles I believe I’m on #7 currently.it’s getting expensive lol.@HBarlow - The problem is the Talon's intake location, it didn't work like Honda engineers thought it would. A stock Talon's filter will last from 250-600 miles and need replacement, they aren't cleanable and you can't blow them out with compressed air. So owners have to find alternatives. Another Talon specific problem is the somewhat complicated and easy to screw up, airbox. If you make a mistake, and whom among us hasn't, you suck dirt into your engine, a costly mistake as some R2C users are finding out.
Replacement Talon filters are about $43 so I'd have used 9-1/2 filters in 5700 miles costing $408. (allowing 600 miles per filter)
About the slight hole mismatch on the Twin Air - knowing about it in advance, I'd just plan on ovaling the misaligned holes with a rattail file, not a big deal to me. I think the problem is they fit 'too perfectly' and didn't allow for manufacturing tolerances, I can live with that. For me, the problem with the Twin Air, you still have to open the airbox to service.
@hondabob 's snorkel and Uni foam prefilter has been working perfectly for me for 5,699 miles, I'm still on the original stock filter and it looked brand new when I checked it at 25xx miles. Once you get over the 3" hole in a body panel, the advantages are undeniable - the prefilter is where you can see it and can be replaced quickly if you have a spare ready to go (I have 3, one on the buggy and 2 in zip lock bags). The details and parts needed (provided by hondabob) are in the post linked in my sig along with other basic Talon information.
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Exactly. Not running a pre-filter setup on a Talon is a waste of time. Even if you don't have anything blocking the access cover in the bed having to pull the airbox lid and filter to check the condition every few rides is a recipe for disaster. At some point the gasket on either the airbox lid or filter itself is going to somehow mess up and cost someone an engine.Good luck with your setup. For me just inspecting filter condition was too much trouble. I needed to remove my TSC truck to get to the filter box. Then all the screws/bolts. Inspecting my inverted external Uni is visible without doing anything.
Exactly. Not running a pre-filter setup on a Talon is a waste of time. Even if you don't have anything blocking the access cover in the bed having to pull the airbox lid and filter to check the condition every few rides is a recipe for disaster. At some point the gasket on either the airbox lid or filter itself is going to somehow mess up and cost someone an engine.
The other thing he mentioned that doesn't sit well with me was having to remove the flange washers and just tightening the bolts down enough to not squish the filter out. Nope... Nope... Nope... Honda used flange washers on the filter hold down bolts so they could be properly tightened down so as not to loosen up fall out and junk whatever cylinder it decides to fall into. Guaranteed with just the filter being used to hold tension on the bolts its not a matter of if, it's a matter of when they back out and junk the motor. Again, Nope...Nope... Nope...
Just to clarify all 8 bolts were tightened down properly,I didn’t leave loose bolts to back out and potentially ruin my engine,That’s just common sense. I agree without running a pre filter your primary will still get just a dirty in the same amount of time as before. But I’m not trying to make my filter last 1000 miles an interval.The benefit i was seeking is a quality filtration media that can be reused once it’s dirty. I still would inspect and clean every ~300miles judging by riding conditions. but that will save me $35 and some pennies in the process,everytime I clean and inspect. With my comment on the filter squishing out towards the air box lip. That’s because the orange compression plate squished the foam flat and tight thus sealing it to the airbox. It was more of an FYI to help someone else out and should be noted in the instructions. Ever rolled up a ball of clay and smashed it? In conclusion, nothing will match OEM filters and Quality,the instructions twin air provides you in the box it says reuse bolts to secure plate to airbox. if it said “reuse oem hardware” that would be a question of concern but it didn’t. The Instructions should be more clear. But I read between the lines and I shouldn’t have too. sadly over the years with aftermarket companies,I’ve learned that. The product will work for me as intended and to anyone else who would use this foam filter.Exactly. Not running a pre-filter setup on a Talon is a waste of time. Even if you don't have anything blocking the access cover in the bed having to pull the airbox lid and filter to check the condition every few rides is a recipe for disaster. At some point the gasket on either the airbox lid or filter itself is going to somehow mess up and cost someone an engine.
The other thing he mentioned that doesn't sit well with me was having to remove the flange washers and just tightening the bolts down enough to not squish the filter out. Nope... Nope... Nope... Honda used flange washers on the filter hold down bolts so they could be properly tightened down so as not to loosen up fall out and junk whatever cylinder it decides to fall into. Guaranteed with just the filter being used to hold tension on the bolts its not a matter of if, it's a matter of when they back out and junk the motor. Again, Nope...Nope... Nope...