Twin-Air foam filter

DylanJones

DylanJones

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Would like to hear some feedback and opinions using one of these over Oem or other aftermarket filters. These are my Go-To filters in the Motorcycle/MX world.
Twi 22 air fil kit 1356890020

I'm curious on how well these would work for the talon? I think after a few washes it would pay for itself. what do you guys think?​

Twi 22 air fil kit 1356890020 2
 
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SLOWPOKE693

SLOWPOKE693

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@highpocket74 is the guy to ask about this. He is our resident air filter expert and has experience with those Uni Filters and other brands.


Whatever you do, DON'T buy an R2C filter for your Talon!!!
 
highpocket74

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A forum member said their Twin Air mounting flange screws didn't line up accurately. So I bought one to find out because I was considering selling them. Twin Air has a long history. Sure enough, the holes did not line up perfectly. The holes are sized perfectly for the OEM screws and spacers but I could only get half of the screws installed due to the hole misalignment. I talked to Twin Air about this and they said it could be due to variations in the Honda air box, which I think is baloney. If that were the case the even the OEM air filter wouldn't mount correctly every time. They said the Jsport factory race team has run these filters successfully without the screw spacers. That would work but I never installed it. I consider the misalignment a poor design that should be fixed.

Other than poor mounting plate hole misalignment I'm sure it's a great Twin Air filter.
 
highpocket74

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I do recommend the Desertcraft Foam Buddy pre-filter. I've sold many of these since June. They are a simple to install pre-filter that fits inside the air box and extends the life of the OEM air filter. I was priveledged to be the test Talon for this product. The Desertcraft people are wonderful to work with!

Store link here
 
HBarlow

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Adding untested and unproven products like this to your engine air intake could be flirting with disaster.

Manufacturers like Honda use sophisticated test equipment and engineering principles to design and test engine air, fuel, and oil filters. The products they install are tested across the full operating ranges of their engines including at maximum rpm. They know their filters seal and will not collapse and be sucked into the intake tract. They also ensure their filters do not restrict air flow.

An untested filter may not seal completely at high rpm and may restrict air flow which will cause an over rich condition.

Your money, your machine, and your choice. I recommend against it.
 
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CID

CID

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@HBarlow - The problem is the Talon's intake location, it didn't work like Honda engineers thought it would. A stock Talon's filter will last from 250-600 miles and need replacement, they aren't cleanable and you can't blow them out with compressed air. So owners have to find alternatives. Another Talon specific problem is the somewhat complicated and easy to screw up, airbox. If you make a mistake, and whom among us hasn't, you suck dirt into your engine, a costly mistake as some R2C users are finding out.

Replacement Talon filters are about $43 so I'd have used 9-1/2 filters in 5700 miles costing $408. (allowing 600 miles per filter)

About the slight hole mismatch on the Twin Air - knowing about it in advance, I'd just plan on ovaling the misaligned holes with a rattail file, not a big deal to me. I think the problem is they fit 'too perfectly' and didn't allow for manufacturing tolerances, I can live with that. For me, the problem with the Twin Air, you still have to open the airbox to service.

@hondabob 's snorkel and Uni foam prefilter has been working perfectly for me for 5,699 miles, I'm still on the original stock filter and it looked brand new when I checked it at 25xx miles. Once you get over the 3" hole in a body panel, the advantages are undeniable - the prefilter is where you can see it and can be replaced quickly if you have a spare ready to go (I have 3, one on the buggy and 2 in zip lock bags). The details and parts needed (provided by hondabob) are in the post linked in my sig along with other basic Talon information.

1639324423551


1639324521083
 
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HBarlow

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@HBarlow - The problem is the Talon's intake location, it didn't work like Honda engineers thought it would. A stock Talon's filter will last from 250-600 miles and need replacement, they aren't cleanable and you can't blow them out with compressed air. So owners have to find alternatives. Another Talon specific problem is the somewhat complicated and easy to screw up, airbox. If you make a mistake, and whom among us hasn't, you suck dirt into your engine, a costly mistake as some R2C users are finding out.

Replacement Talon filters are about $43 so I'd have used 9-1/2 filters in 5700 miles costing $408.

About the slight hole mismatch on the Twin Air - knowing about it in advance, I'd just plan on ovaling the misaligned holes with a rattail file, no big deal in my mind. I think the problem is they fit 'too perfectly' and didn't allow for manufacturing tolerances, I can live with that. For me, the problem with the Twin Air, you still have to open the airbox to service.

@hondabob 's snorkel and Uni foam prefilter has been working perfectly for me for 5,699 miles, I'm still on the original stock filter and it looked brand new when I checked it at 25xx miles. Once you get over the 3" hole in a body panel, the advantages are undeniable - the prefilter is where you can see it and can be replaced quickly if you have a spare ready to go (I have 3, one on the buggy and 2 in zip lock bags). The details and parts needed (provided by hondabob) are in the post linked in my sig along with other basic Talon information.

View attachment 308577

View attachment 308578
The foam pre-filter on the snorkel tube make sense to me. If I had kept the Talon long enough to learn about the weakness of the oem system I would probably have gone to that system.

I can't see the actual air intake part but the mesh on snorkel tube looks safe at a glance without risk of the engine eating the filter or restricting air flow. What prevents the foam from collapsing at high rpm?

I didn't own a Talon long enough or use it in dirty conditions enough to even change the air filter but I was unimpressed with the air (and water) intake opening when I washed it a couple of times.
 
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CID

CID

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The foam pre-filter on the snorkel tube make sense to me. If I had kept the Talon long enough to learn about the weakness of the oem system I would probably have gone to that system.

I can't see the actual air intake part but the mesh on snorkel tube looks safe at a glance without risk of the engine eating the filter or restricting air flow. What prevents the foam from collapsing at high rpm?

I didn't own a Talon long enough or use it in dirty conditions enough to even change the air filter but I was unimpressed with the air (and water) intake opening when I washed it a couple of times.
There's a coiled wire inside the Uni filter to hold its shape. Due to the 'top hat' on the air intake, I don't think you could get water into the airbox when washing if you tried.

Photo thx to @Lil_Steve - it lives in a terrible environment, even behind the inner fender.
1639326590876


I should mention, Bob extends his snorkel up under the roof to keep it out of the rain but - 1. I try not to ride in the rain. 2. I live and ride in an arid area of the country. 3. Behind the passenger seat is pretty much covered by the roof, especially when moving. My first ride was in a steady drizzle, I forgot about the filter being exposed and had no problems.
 
HBarlow

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Thanks for both explanations CID.

If I still owned a Talon I would purchase and install the Uni filter. I'm convinced by your description.

And thanks for the photo of the Talon "top hat." I had never tried to investigate. The whole truth is I can't see well enough in dark places to understand - particularly when everything is black.
 
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HavasuDave

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The OEM is a fantastic filter. The real problem is the Honda intake design is horrible from where it draws air in and how the filter is a barrier filter into the plenum.

The cheapest fix is a snorkel with a filter on top, but the best is a particle separator. I went with KWT since it can be mounted anywhere even if you have rear windows or equipment in the back. Also, it’s quiet and needs no electricity. I have gotten 2000 miles on my filters in extremely dusty Arizona conditions.

 
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ckeele223

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I do recommend the Desertcraft Foam Buddy pre-filter. I've sold many of these since June. They are a simple to install pre-filter that fits inside the air box and extends the life of the OEM air filter. I was priveledged to be the test Talon for this product. The Desertcraft people are wonderful to work with!

Store link here
I very much agree with H Barlow on the aftermarket air filter subject, I have never seen or tested an aftermarket air filter that I would trust, Honda has more money to do R&D on these types of subjects in their petty cash than those aftermarket air filter people do combined, stick with the factory components and service intervals and you cant do any better than that.
 
BPINE

BPINE

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I very much agree with H Barlow on the aftermarket air filter subject, I have never seen or tested an aftermarket air filter that I would trust, Honda has more money to do R&D on these types of subjects in their petty cash than those aftermarket air filter people do combined, stick with the factory components and service intervals and you cant do any better than that.

While I partly agree why does Honda offer a particle separator as an option? Because they know for the guys in very dusty environments the stock set up will plug up quick.
 
DylanJones

DylanJones

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Thank you to everyone that replied to this,plenty of useful information.
 
DylanJones

DylanJones

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@HBarlow - The problem is the Talon's intake location, it didn't work like Honda engineers thought it would. A stock Talon's filter will last from 250-600 miles and need replacement, they aren't cleanable and you can't blow them out with compressed air. So owners have to find alternatives. Another Talon specific problem is the somewhat complicated and easy to screw up, airbox. If you make a mistake, and whom among us hasn't, you suck dirt into your engine, a costly mistake as some R2C users are finding out.

Replacement Talon filters are about $43 so I'd have used 9-1/2 filters in 5700 miles costing $408. (allowing 600 miles per filter)

About the slight hole mismatch on the Twin Air - knowing about it in advance, I'd just plan on ovaling the misaligned holes with a rattail file, not a big deal to me. I think the problem is they fit 'too perfectly' and didn't allow for manufacturing tolerances, I can live with that. For me, the problem with the Twin Air, you still have to open the airbox to service.

@hondabob 's snorkel and Uni foam prefilter has been working perfectly for me for 5,699 miles, I'm still on the original stock filter and it looked brand new when I checked it at 25xx miles. Once you get over the 3" hole in a body panel, the advantages are undeniable - the prefilter is where you can see it and can be replaced quickly if you have a spare ready to go (I have 3, one on the buggy and 2 in zip lock bags). The details and parts needed (provided by hondabob) are in the post linked in my sig along with other basic Talon information.

View attachment 308577

View attachment 308578
I like this idea alot,I’m changing air filters every 200-400miles I believe I’m on #7 currently.it’s getting expensive lol.
 
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DylanJones

DylanJones

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Well guys,I ended up purchasing one from a forum member here. the install went okay just takes a bit longer. Only issue I noticed was trying to install the compression plate with the flange washers,in other words made it a (PITA). I ended up using just the 8 bolts to hold down the plate. One thing to look out for when compressing the foam down it likes to squish out towards the sealing lip of air box cover. To correct this and prevent any interference,I got all 8 bolts started then gently pulled the foam back away from the air box sealing lip as I tightened up the plate. From what I saw it squished down onto the foam about 1/4 inch once tight and everything looked perfect and sealed.
Took it out today for a one hour ride on a dusty/sandy high speed trail loop with my neighbor in front of me on his quad. pulled cover off to inspect afterwards and everything looks okay. On a side note I’m running a PV3 from dynojet. I did some data logging and From what I saw looking at fuel trims it definitely was correcting for about 7 percent more fuel at sea level over the factory filter so I adjusted fuel trims to correct for that.

89D0F2A0 6B09 4A92 BE4A 07D5B43D4310 F894965B 7A6B 4058 93B9 F0434B618B84
 
Doogle

Doogle

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Good luck with your setup. For me just inspecting filter condition was too much trouble. I needed to remove my TSC truck to get to the filter box. Then all the screws/bolts. Inspecting my inverted external Uni is visible without doing anything.
 
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SLOWPOKE693

SLOWPOKE693

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Good luck with your setup. For me just inspecting filter condition was too much trouble. I needed to remove my TSC truck to get to the filter box. Then all the screws/bolts. Inspecting my inverted external Uni is visible without doing anything.
Exactly. Not running a pre-filter setup on a Talon is a waste of time. Even if you don't have anything blocking the access cover in the bed having to pull the airbox lid and filter to check the condition every few rides is a recipe for disaster. At some point the gasket on either the airbox lid or filter itself is going to somehow mess up and cost someone an engine.

The other thing he mentioned that doesn't sit well with me was having to remove the flange washers and just tightening the bolts down enough to not squish the filter out. Nope... Nope... Nope... Honda used flange washers on the filter hold down bolts so they could be properly tightened down so as not to loosen up fall out and junk whatever cylinder it decides to fall into. Guaranteed with just the filter being used to hold tension on the bolts its not a matter of if, it's a matter of when they back out and junk the motor. Again, Nope...Nope... Nope...
 
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Doogle

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I forgot to mention, before changing my filter system, I did drop a bolt down into the intake system when I pulled the filter out. Mine didn't go too far. I'm not sure if it could get to, or past, the intake valve. I believe I read that some smarter person used a magnet when removing nuts or bolts in that area. That could still be a concern for me. But that filter won't be getting pulled very often with my UNI atop.

I'm not sure how much I might be choking my intake down, but I ordered an Outerwear to go over this Uni filter. Even though the Uni is easy to get to and clean, I'd like to keep most of the dust from getting to it. I'm not racing.

2021 02 08 Talon Snorkel 2
 
Montecresto

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I protected my plenum from things falling in like this…
217C963F 8F2E 4EF0 82B8 9E9141F4B858
 
DylanJones

DylanJones

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Exactly. Not running a pre-filter setup on a Talon is a waste of time. Even if you don't have anything blocking the access cover in the bed having to pull the airbox lid and filter to check the condition every few rides is a recipe for disaster. At some point the gasket on either the airbox lid or filter itself is going to somehow mess up and cost someone an engine.

The other thing he mentioned that doesn't sit well with me was having to remove the flange washers and just tightening the bolts down enough to not squish the filter out. Nope... Nope... Nope... Honda used flange washers on the filter hold down bolts so they could be properly tightened down so as not to loosen up fall out and junk whatever cylinder it decides to fall into. Guaranteed with just the filter being used to hold tension on the bolts its not a matter of if, it's a matter of when they back out and junk the motor. Again, Nope...Nope... Nope...
Exactly. Not running a pre-filter setup on a Talon is a waste of time. Even if you don't have anything blocking the access cover in the bed having to pull the airbox lid and filter to check the condition every few rides is a recipe for disaster. At some point the gasket on either the airbox lid or filter itself is going to somehow mess up and cost someone an engine.

The other thing he mentioned that doesn't sit well with me was having to remove the flange washers and just tightening the bolts down enough to not squish the filter out. Nope... Nope... Nope... Honda used flange washers on the filter hold down bolts so they could be properly tightened down so as not to loosen up fall out and junk whatever cylinder it decides to fall into. Guaranteed with just the filter being used to hold tension on the bolts its not a matter of if, it's a matter of when they back out and junk the motor. Again, Nope...Nope... Nope...
Just to clarify all 8 bolts were tightened down properly,I didn’t leave loose bolts to back out and potentially ruin my engine,That’s just common sense. I agree without running a pre filter your primary will still get just a dirty in the same amount of time as before. But I’m not trying to make my filter last 1000 miles an interval.The benefit i was seeking is a quality filtration media that can be reused once it’s dirty. I still would inspect and clean every ~300miles judging by riding conditions. but that will save me $35 and some pennies in the process,everytime I clean and inspect. With my comment on the filter squishing out towards the air box lip. That’s because the orange compression plate squished the foam flat and tight thus sealing it to the airbox. It was more of an FYI to help someone else out and should be noted in the instructions. Ever rolled up a ball of clay and smashed it? In conclusion, nothing will match OEM filters and Quality,the instructions twin air provides you in the box it says reuse bolts to secure plate to airbox. if it said “reuse oem hardware” that would be a question of concern but it didn’t. The Instructions should be more clear. But I read between the lines and I shouldn’t have too. sadly over the years with aftermarket companies,I’ve learned that. The product will work for me as intended and to anyone else who would use this foam filter.
 
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