P1000 Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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:rolleyes: I'll take a jumper box. You all talked me into it, I'll just have it switchable using one of the extra factory switches. I just like it dark in the cab.
A number of the voltmeters I've seen with USB ports have their own little button to turn the volt display on/off. Go with one of those and save adding another switch.
 
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CID

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This one, for example

On/off display switch on right https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1WJ3W5X?tag=sxsweb24-20
fwiw: USB ports have a parasitic draw and should be switched. My added cig plug is always hot for the GPS but my USB plug is switched on by the key. I did add a toggle switch to the cig plug so I can turn it off when hosing the buggy down but, other than that, it's always hot.
 
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duratime

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This one, for example

On/off display switch on right https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1WJ3W5X?tag=sxsweb24-20
I like that one, my only question is should I also have one for the factory battery? I know that the dash will show that as well, but is it necessary to be seeing both together to compare the two values? Wiring becomes much simpler to just use that one and it gives you good charging options and that translucent cover might reduce the light output enough that it might make it less annoying. Thanks.
 
Jankyeye

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Another option is to use the Dual meter in the kit and put a piece of headlight tint on it. I have the dual indicator on a key trigger and a switched USB/volt meter (like above) direct to the 2nd battery. This allows me to charge a phone with the buggy off if needed but not draining the system when not needed.
 
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Scoop

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fwiw: USB ports have a parasitic draw and should be switched. My added cig plug is always hot for the GPS but my USB plug is switched on by the key. I did add a toggle switch to the cig plug so I can turn it off when hosing the buggy down but, other than that, it's always hot.
My dual port USB lighted dash socket is connected to always-on power, but the socket itself has it's own on/off button built in.

1666193717737
 
Wellzy

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I got one from Azon like the green one above and installed it under the seat of my scooter. That, even with the power button turned off, would drain the scooter battery. I changed it out for a non illuminated one, that has no buttons. That one is doing fine.
 
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duratime

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I got one from Azon like the green one above and installed it under the seat of my scooter. That, even with the power button turned off, would drain the scooter battery. I changed it out for a non illuminated one, that has no buttons. That one is doing fine.
I'm going to put one on switch, just to be safe. Thanks
 
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Red B

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It stays on until the voltage gets down to about 13 on the primary battery. The video goes into detail on this topic and shows how to force the voltage to go down quickly to prove the point.

you can turn the acc on (engine off) and turn on the lights. This will drain current for a few seconds. Then turn the acc off and the blue light will be out.
First off...Thank you Rob for the video. It really helped my install not to mention ordering the parts.
But I have a question concerning the blue light. When the blue light is illuminated is it allowing 1 way voltage to pass from the main battery to the aux battery?
 
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RobSparre

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Hey Red - the blue light means the main battery is fully charged and is passing charge to the aux battery. I don’t remember the exact voltage level, but at approx 13 volts it will turn off. When you turn off the engine, the blue light will stay on until it drops to that level. You can test this by turning off the engine and then observe when you turn to accessory key position and turn on the lights. This will draw power and almost immediately turn the blue light off.
 
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Red B

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Thanks Rob.

Here are some pics of my install (excuse the dirt...we're in the desert). FYI, my Forest model came with a factory installed winch and I chose not to move the box in the front where most people install their isolator.
H1
H2
H3
 
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cmharwood

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Hey guys! I've read through the entire post a couple of times, but haven't quite figured out the answer to my question. I'm following Rob's video and wiring, but I'm not using the bus bars. Can I just bypass those and tie the positive from the aux battery to the relay, and the negative from the aux battery to the accessory fuse box? The fuse box I got already has a negative bus. Everything else I have will be the same (relay, volt meter/relay). Thanks for the help!
 
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Red B

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Hey guys! I've read through the entire post a couple of times, but haven't quite figured out the answer to my question. I'm following Rob's video and wiring, but I'm not using the bus bars. Can I just bypass those and tie the positive from the aux battery to the relay, and the negative from the aux battery to the accessory fuse box? The fuse box I got already has a negative bus. Everything else I have will be the same (relay, volt meter/relay). Thanks for the help!
I decided to remove the positive bus bar too. I took the positive lead on the aux battery to the stinger and then to the fuse box. I did leave the neg bus bar though.
 
Scoop

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Hey guys! I've read through the entire post a couple of times, but haven't quite figured out the answer to my question. I'm following Rob's video and wiring, but I'm not using the bus bars. Can I just bypass those and tie the positive from the aux battery to the relay, and the negative from the aux battery to the accessory fuse box? The fuse box I got already has a negative bus. Everything else I have will be the same (relay, volt meter/relay). Thanks for the help!
Of course you can. But the primary purpose of the busbars are to make it easy to connect future lead(s) that need to go directly to the battery and not through the fuse box - typically, something pulling a decent number of amps.
 
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Red B

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Not trying to be argumentative, but why or what would you add that couldn't be placed in the fuse block with the proper size fuse? I doubt your going to add anything without a fuse. When I had the positive bus bar on installed on mine, I felt it just added clutter while adding a positive source for something to touch that might create a spark. Just my two cents.
 
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RobSparre

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Not trying to be argumentative, but why or what would you add that couldn't be placed in the fuse block with the proper size fuse? I doubt your going to add anything without a fuse. When I had the positive bus bar on installed on mine, I felt it just added clutter while adding a positive source for something to touch that might create a spark. Just my two cents.
Not a right or wrong thing. I find the convenience of the buss bar to be worth it and I protect it with red electrical tape that is easy to peel back when adding another device as shown in the video. High current devices I prefer not to run through the fuse box. I only connect low current devices through that. As long as proper safety and wire sizes are observed to carry the load current, there are numerous designs that will work. I have seen several designs I like better than mine. All good Mr. Red!
 
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Red B

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So Rob, can we continue the install discussion? My true isolator has a remote crank disconnect. It has a male spade connector that can be connected to crank side of my ignition/starter. I understand would allow the aux battery to assist the main battery for cranking. SO...to all the electrical experts, where do I hook it up?

Thanks Red.
 
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