RobSparre
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Hey Rob or any of the other members,
I am following your video and wiring diagrams trying to install a secondary battery and other components in my ride. In your wiring diagram there is no mention of wire sizes that you used when doing your install. I ordered everything you recommended but am having trouble determining what to use and where to use it. If I knew what wire sizes you used between each component it would greatly help. For example the heavy duty cables that came with the isolation kit and the others you recommended I purchase don't seem to be enough for the install. For example if we just look at the positive cables from the accessory battery, we would need a heavy cable to go from the battery to the positive buss, then another cable from the buss to the stinger, another cable from the buss to the isolator and another from the stinger to the accessory fuse box. Do all these cables have to be the same size? If so, there aren't enough of them to do the install per your recommendations. Can you provide a hand in what you did. I am not an electrical engineer by any stroke of the imagination so all the help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. I did enjoy your video the numerous times I have gone back to view it. Your viewer rating should have doubled by the number of times I have gone back to watch it.
I am following your video and wiring diagrams trying to install a secondary battery and other components in my ride. In your wiring diagram there is no mention of wire sizes that you used when doing your install. I ordered everything you recommended but am having trouble determining what to use and where to use it. If I knew what wire sizes you used between each component it would greatly help. For example the heavy duty cables that came with the isolation kit and the others you recommended I purchase don't seem to be enough for the install. For example if we just look at the positive cables from the accessory battery, we would need a heavy cable to go from the battery to the positive buss, then another cable from the buss to the stinger, another cable from the buss to the isolator and another from the stinger to the accessory fuse box. Do all these cables have to be the same size? If so, there aren't enough of them to do the install per your recommendations. Can you provide a hand in what you did. I am not an electrical engineer by any stroke of the imagination so all the help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. I did enjoy your video the numerous times I have gone back to view it. Your viewer rating should have doubled by the number of times I have gone back to watch it.
ACfixer
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NECRO THREAD ALERT! 
Wow, it's been a while since I have been on here, but I just got an e-mail! I'll explain my absence in another thread.
Riverjetter sir, I used all one size, I think 16 AWG stranded but I will go out to my shed and find my buggy-box and check for you. This is excepting the battery to battery stuff, that is a heavier gauge of course, I can't remember the gauge offhand but it's the lighter of the battery cable sizes you'll find at Napa or whatever. Just match it up to the OEM batter cable stuff.
The winch comes with it's own wiring so there's no guesswork there.
Wow, it's been a while since I have been on here, but I just got an e-mail! I'll explain my absence in another thread.
Riverjetter sir, I used all one size, I think 16 AWG stranded but I will go out to my shed and find my buggy-box and check for you. This is excepting the battery to battery stuff, that is a heavier gauge of course, I can't remember the gauge offhand but it's the lighter of the battery cable sizes you'll find at Napa or whatever. Just match it up to the OEM batter cable stuff.
The winch comes with it's own wiring so there's no guesswork there.
In choosing wire size, the consideration is how much power (amps) do you need the wire to carry, how long is the wiring run from battery to where you need the power, and how much voltage drop on the wiring (wasted power as heat) is acceptable. Fortunately, there are charts like this one: CHART (and many more if you search 12 volt DC wire size etc.).
Going larger than needed means less power lost to voltage drop, and a bit more weight and cost of materials.
The wire that comes with your battery isolator (like the True) needs to carry the equalizing or charging current between the two batteries as well as any shared load (until the "helping" battery voltage drops to 12.8 - or whatever True has that voltage cut-off set point at so, for example, running the winch on the aux won't drain the main battery).
Going larger than needed means less power lost to voltage drop, and a bit more weight and cost of materials.
The wire that comes with your battery isolator (like the True) needs to carry the equalizing or charging current between the two batteries as well as any shared load (until the "helping" battery voltage drops to 12.8 - or whatever True has that voltage cut-off set point at so, for example, running the winch on the aux won't drain the main battery).
RobSparre
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Hello! Sorry for the confusion on wire sizes. Did you look at the wiring diagram attachment? I’m pretty sure I say what most of them are on the diagram and I thought I mentioned in the video also. I also put a link to the additional heavy cables I bought in the video description. It has been a long time - so here is what I recall from old person memory:
awg 5 is what the battery connections use that I added. 4 or 6 are fine Ike sure.
I used two runs of 12 together to go from the stinger to the fuse box. One 12 was probably fine - but I added a second one twisted together for additional current capacity.
16 is fine for any switch connections that are not carrying any significant load. It’s fine for LED lights like around the cabin and for any switches that are triggering accessories but not actually carrying the load current.
note that it is always fine to go with a lower gauge (bigger wire) if you have it. In other words, if you have 14 handy, you can use that in place of 16.
I just checked the attachments and they have specific notes on wire sizes.
let me know if you have any problems with the attachments!
good luck and I look forward to hearing how the project turns out!
russknight
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I have three batteries. This is the third one.
ACfixer
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I have a 2022 700-4 and I'm getting ready to install the spare battery, winch, lights, etc. I don't really want to drill or cut into the dash and would prefer to just use an under-dash switch plate mount for the winch, voltmeter, and USB outlets. Does anyone have any recommendation of a product like this? I haven't found one yet.
ACfixer
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Welcome. I got a little bit of a chuckle from your post MEROST, my friendly advice is get over it... you'll end up drilling or cutting something with your new ride!
In the unlikely event you are able to avoid that... there is a guy on the board here that makes 3D print dash switch stuff, he did mine... I am sure he can probably drum something up for you. But to mount anything you'll probably be drilling holes and using body push-pin doohickeys to mount it.
P
Crossroads 3D, he has multiple configurations of switch panels and can also build you a custom panel from your dimensional sketch..
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CID
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I rode motorcycles for years without a VM but it would push start iffn the battery pooped the bed. I like being able to check on my battery's condition without a load, so I installed a toggle switch to turn it on without the key. If it's reading low, I know that - 1. it's been sitting too long. 2. If it's low regularly, I know it's time for a new one. 3. The VM also lets me know the charge rate is right. With a single battery, it ran at 14.4 volts. With the dual battery setup, it runs at 13.8 but that's with a different VM and charging 2 batteries.
A VM is simply a data point that helps you keep up with the battery and charging system.
TripleB
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It let me know the isolator had failed once. The 2nd battery would always stay 12+ volts when I was driving. So I knew something was up. Had to get a new isolator.
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'Course it's not needed. Just take along a comfortable pair of hiking boots.
D
I'll take a jumper box. You all talked me into it, I'll just have it switchable using one of the extra factory switches. I just like it dark in the cab.
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Jankyeye
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I put mine behind the steering wheel/shift paddle to block some of the light. I can easily see it if I move my head to the side but it isn't shinning directly in my face while driving.
CID
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So yer not lit up like a SxS Christmas tree? Where's the fun in that? 😥
Where's the fun in that? 😥
I put my voltmeter on a switch as well, I dont like the light all the time either. They do sell different color ones in the club store, I plan on replacing my blue one with red so it matches my switch illumination. Also the blue one is too bright and screws with my eyes for some reason.
Lighted switches are great sometimes and sometimes a pain.
My big thing is to keep switch lights green, blue, or white.
Dashboard red and yellow lights should be left to warning lights.
Not sure if were talking about the same switches, mine are only illuminated when they're on, and they're pretty dim. I dont even notice they're on unless I look directly at them. But the bright blue voltmeter was pretty distracting at night. Also red light doesnt affect your vision at night as much as other colors. My switches are in the middle of my dash too, nowhere near the instrument panel.
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