P1000 Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

RobSparre

RobSparre

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Thank you for the reply! I'm kind of thinking the same thing. I would rather have a few extra circuits just incase I need them. The video you posted was great, one of the best i have seen. I appreciate it.
Thank you - the 12 circuit box I installed will only have 4 spots left after I install the winch, so it looks like more is always better once we start feeding our accessory addiction!
 
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Scott5150

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No apology necessary! Perfectly reasonable question. I am not an electrical engineer and one of the main reasons I did the video was to learn and understand myself. I studied a lot of other videos and wiring diagrams in order to come up with what I thought was the best and clearest explanation possible - at least for me. I would never have made thr video if I found one that answered all my questions.

There are some things that could be simplified, such as removing the positive and negative bus bars. It’s just a matter of making connections easier in the future versus having to pile multiple connections on battery posts. You don’t technically need the fuse box. But tying accessories directly to power is risky. The fuse is there to make sure no current over an expected amount is traveling through wires that can’t handle it and potentially catching fire.

You don’t have to wire up the voltmeter.

I think some of this is meant to learn and be fun, and if you are dreading it and are overwhelmed, then you have to figure out what you want to do. Maybe take the time to look at how others did theirs and see if anyone did it without an isolator or stinger relay. See if anyone did it without a fuse box. But each piece in my layout plays a part that all works together and allowed me to easily add numerous other accessories later.

You can do this and be successful if you decide you can. Give yourself some credit for getting this far. Then decide whether you want to go for it. It took me about a week. I still had to go to work and find time around my other obligations. But patience and persistence in the end made for a proud moment and I am very happy I stuck with it. I hope you will too.

And don’t forget we are here to help you.


Rob,

I am installing my second battery from watching your video and I have a couple of questions if you would allow me to ask.

* How and where did you ground your negative bus bar? Does the battery ground it?
*.You show a negative lead is run from the Acc battery to the negative bus bar, do you run another wire from the main battery (Neg) to the negative bus bar?

I am sure I will have more questions tomorrow as I try to finish the install.

Thank you,
Scott
 
Smitty335

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Rob,

I am installing my second battery from watching your video and I have a couple of questions if you would allow me to ask.

* How and where did you ground your negative bus bar? Does the battery ground it?
*.You show a negative lead is run from the Acc battery to the negative bus bar, do you run another wire from the main battery (Neg) to the negative bus bar?

I am sure I will have more questions tomorrow as I try to finish the install.

Thank you,
Scott
I'm confused about a negative buss bar, I have the second battery in ours for 3 years, no negative buss bar, ran hot lead and neg lead from the secondary battery to a Sea Ray fuse panel that has built in individually fused buss bars? Every accessory has it's own fuse in the fuse box. As far as grounding, used primary battery as ground?
 
RobSparre

RobSparre

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Rob,

I am installing my second battery from watching your video and I have a couple of questions if you would allow me to ask.

* How and where did you ground your negative bus bar? Does the battery ground it?
*.You show a negative lead is run from the Acc battery to the negative bus bar, do you run another wire from the main battery (Neg) to the negative bus bar?

I am sure I will have more questions tomorrow as I try to finish the install.

Thank you,
Scott
Hey Scott

- correct - the negative bus bar is grounded via the aux battery negative. The 2nd large factory negative cable from frame ground that was taped up at the beginning from the factory and unwrapped in the video is what I use to ground the aux battery, and from there to the the bus bar. I figure that was pretty convenient. I wanted the frame ground cable directly connected to the battery.

- I don’t run another neg lead from the main battery to the neg bus bar. I think of the neg bus bar as being a creation primarily for use by accessories and the aux battery, but technically it’s all the same ground reference. Keep in mind that the bus bar becomes disconnected from ground if the aux battery neg is disconnected. So it might be a good idea to run the main battery neg to it also.

I could not find an easy separate frame ground connection to run to the neg bus bar plus I was lazy about it.
 
RobSparre

RobSparre

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I'm confused about a negative buss bar, I have the second battery in ours for 3 years, no negative buss bar, ran hot lead and neg lead from the secondary battery to a Sea Ray fuse panel that has built in individually fused buss bars? Every accessory has it's own fuse in the fuse box. As far as grounding, used primary battery as ground?
The bus bar is not technically required - it’s just convenience. I don’t have to run any additional cables to the batteries once I have the main connections completed.

When accessories that use relays are added, you need to ground them in addition to the switch ground that is at the fuse box. Where do you run them? I use the bus bar. I think I have 5 or 6 things running to the bus bar. If I didn’t put them there - they would have to go to the battery or the fuse box ground or somewhere. It’s just convenient. Not required.
 
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Scott5150

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Hey Scott

- correct - the negative bus bar is grounded via the aux battery negative. The 2nd large factory negative cable from frame ground that was taped up at the beginning from the factory and unwrapped in the video is what I use to ground the aux battery, and from there to the the bus bar. I figure that was pretty convenient. I wanted the frame ground cable directly connected to the battery.

- I don’t run another neg lead from the main battery to the neg bus bar. I think of the neg bus bar as being a creation primarily for use by accessories and the aux battery, but technically it’s all the same ground reference. Keep in mind that the bus bar becomes disconnected from ground if the aux battery neg is disconnected. So it might be a good idea to run the main battery neg to it also.

I could not find an easy separate frame ground connection to run to the neg bus bar plus I was lazy about it.
Thanks so much for getting back to me. I will be back at it tomorrow to hopefully finish it up. In the event I have additional questions I might hit you up. Thanks again Rob!!
 
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Smitty335

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The bus bar is not technically required - it’s just convenience. I don’t have to run any additional cables to the batteries once I have the main connections completed.

When accessories that use relays are added, you need to ground them in addition to the switch ground that is at the fuse box. Where do you run them? I use the bus bar. I think I have 5 or 6 things running to the bus bar. If I didn’t put them there - they would have to go to the battery or the fuse box ground or somewhere. It’s just convenient. Not required.
Like every thing separate from each other
 
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RobSparre

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Thanks so much for getting back to me. I will be back at it tomorrow to hopefully finish it up. In the event I have additional questions I might hit you up. Thanks again Rob!!
Keep us posted with your progress!
 
bwetzel

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Awesome video! The kick in the tail I needed to actually do this project. I have a light bar and sound bar still in boxes (since September...) because I wanted to get this done first.
Between the sound bar and the SATV doors I got during black friday sale I’m going to have happy passengers.
 
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RobSparre

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Awesome video! The kick in the tail I needed to actually do this project. I have a light bar and sound bar still in boxes (since September...) because I wanted to get this done first.
Between the sound bar and the SATV doors I got during black friday sale I’m going to have happy passengers.
That’s great! I have another video on wiring and adding accessories including light bar and other lights that might be useful. I am also looking down the road at adding doors so the fun never ends!
 
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Newbie here so don't yell at me. I'm not being a smartazz when I asked this question either...... promise.

Does the wiring really have to be this complicated? It's like I need to be an electrical engineer to not only understand it but to purchase all the items and then even think I have a chance to install all that stuff.

There has to be an easier way......... am I wrong??
There is..

 
GlockMeister

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RobSparre

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RobSparre

RobSparre

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Yup.. it’s pricey. But if you do the other way the “right” way it’s about the same cost but a hell of a lot easier and the switch pro has more functions.
In reviews it looked like there was quite a bit of complaining that the Bluetooth app that is needed to run it was lousy. I assume that has been addressed and you have no complaints about it?
 
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JTW

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In reviews it looked like there was quite a bit of complaining that the Bluetooth app that is needed to run it was lousy. I assume that has been addressed and you have no complaints about it?
People are stupid... the app is fine. It’s nothing fancy but it works and does everything it needs.
 
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Great Video Rob,

I have all the items in my amazon cart....needing a good winter project for when the snow gets to the great lakes state.
Let's say I wanted to have the option of running accessories without turning the key to the "on" Position and directly from a 3 position rocker switch to where I could either run accessories with the machine completely off. Or have the option of running the machine with all accessories off.

What would the wiring diagram look like for that 3 position double pull rocker switch?(On/Off/On)
I thought I saw a video where the Cab switch was wired directly to the Stinger solenoid?

Thanks again!
 
RobSparre

RobSparre

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Great Video Rob,

I have all the items in my amazon cart....needing a good winter project for when the snow gets to the great lakes state.
Let's say I wanted to have the option of running accessories without turning the key to the "on" Position and directly from a 3 position rocker switch to where I could either run accessories with the machine completely off. Or have the option of running the machine with all accessories off.

What would the wiring diagram look like for that 3 position double pull rocker switch?(On/Off/On)
I thought I saw a video where the Cab switch was wired directly to the Stinger solenoid?

Thanks again!
Hey G - thanks! I will create a diagram for you to have another option to have manual switch on without having to turn key on. Will let you know when ready and will attach.

Update: I have attached it to the original thread and to this reply. Called "on-off-on" wiring diagram. It's a little busy/messy because it was not laid out with the new DPDT switch in mind and I didn't rework it to make it neater. Hopefully this gives you the idea....
 

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Wellzy

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definitely want a spotted cow! Is that a drink or an actual cow? Lol
I'm about an hour from the brewery as well, the P1K-5 will haul many cases for delivery, getting to Iowa means sneaking across a big bridge!
 
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