P1000 2020 1000-5 acts crazy at 4k rpm

[Msmdomination]

I need some help, sorry this is so long but the more info the better. I have searched extensively throughout the site with no luck.

2020 Pioneer 1000-5. A few weeks ago the machine all of a sudden wouldn't start. I let it sit for a while, checked all the fuses (they were good), and all the sudden it started right up. I figured I may have vapor locked it because I left it running in the blazing heat for about 30min when I got sidetracked talking to a neighbor. It ran great for those weeks afterwards. I ran some amsoil fuel injector cleaner through it just in case.
The other day way back in a trail I got stuck in the mud. It wasn't deep, and I had no doubt my new winch would easily pull us up the tiny creek bank. Unfortunately, even with a snatch block, the winch did nothing and I ended up bottoming out on the frame. I was maybe at a 30 degree incline. Out of options I walked out and back to the cabin to grab my dad's 1000-5 and pull it out. When I got back, the machine wouldn't start. I tried to pull it out anyways and after a little yanking it magically started and I was able to get out.
On the way back it started acting incredibly strange at 4000rpm. As soon as I hit 4k it would herk, jerk, spit, sputter, clank, etc. until I let off the gas. It was as though 4k rpm triggered a toddler like temper tantrum, complete with Tasmanian Devil-esque mannerisms and noises. As long as I kept it under 4k it would operate properly.
Once back it sat for another hour or so until I went to start it. Again it wouldn't start and hasn't since. I'm kind of lost on ideas. Current theories I have:

• plugged vent hose
• electrical something
• spark plugs
• dirty throttle body
• plugged exhaust

The wiring on the winch completely melted while using. Turns out #10 wire isn't big enough I guess.
I'm not sure where to start, or what the most likely culprit is. There are no check engine lights. It turns over fine. the fuel vent is clean (haven't checked others yet). Has anyone ever experienced this? I thought it may have been at a big enough angle that an oil sensor safety switch wasn't triggered or something at first, but it's been on flat ground for days now.
I don't know where I want to start. Let me know if you have any suggestions. Sorry for the long post. Thanks!!!!

 

[Admin]

 

[TripleB]

My bet is the battery. That's where I would start. But I'm a dumbass

 

[Hondasxs]

Yes, 10g is not adequate for the main wires. 6 is common or better.

Assuming this all started after the over heated winching?
I would give the battery a good charge, look over the connections to ensure they are tight, and see what you have.
It doesn't look like you were deep enough for the fuel vent to be a concern.
But a clogged muffler... maybe. look into that.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

And Ground connections?

 

[Scoop]

My bet is the battery. That's where I would start. But I'm a dumbass

I can assure you, sir, you are NOT a dumbass.

 

[Scoop]

And Ground connections?

That's what I was thinking, but then saw where he said, "... It turns over fine." Mebee, mebee not still.

 

[Msmdomination]

Thanks guys. I really don't think it's the battery. I have an optima yellow top that has sat on the charger for days. However, a bad ground? Hadn't thought of that. Wouldn't it spaz at different rpms if the ground was loose? Go completely dead then back to life?

I know there are ground connections under the hood, but where does it connect to the frame? I'll definitely check them, but I can hear the fuel pump turn on and it turns over normal.

Yes, 10g is not adequate for the main wires. 6 is common or better.

Assuming this all started after the over heated winching?
I would give the battery a good charge, look over the connections to ensure they are tight, and see what you have.
It doesn't look like you were deep enough for the fuel vent to be a concern.
But a clogged muffler... maybe. look into that

Kinda, it wouldn't start two weeks prior to the mud incident, but the SXS gods fixed it for me somehow. I ran #6 for the battery swap, just not the winch. I know...stupid.
The muffler is a good point. It was just enough incline for it to touch the mud. I looked at the spark arrestor already, but it didn't seem clogged. I didn't take it off though.

 

[Scoop]

Wouldn't it spaz at different rpms if the ground was loose? Go completely dead then back to life?

There is no such thing as predictability when it comes to loose ground.

Kinda, it wouldn't start two weeks prior to the mud incident, but the SXS gods fixed it for me somehow.

Yet another hallmark of the unpredictability of a loose ground issue.

 

[DRZRon1]

if the grounds and battery connections are good - no offense - unless that battery is tested, no beuno, doesn't matter how much they cost or how much you charge - they can still bad.....

 

[P1K5Dave]

Here are the ground locations you want to check. Be sure to put a wrench on them, don't just do a wiggle check.

 

[Remington]

Its the 35’s 😏 😂

 

[Msmdomination]

Its the 35’s 😏 😂

Dangit! Guess I'll have to get portals! haha

DRZRon1/Scoop,​

Fair enough. I'll start with those. Thanks!!

P1K5Dave​

Thanks for the diagram! I'll report back my findings.

 

[Remington]

Dangit! Guess I'll have to get portals! haha

Haha im glad u got the pun and took it as being funny 🤙

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

All of what they 👆👆👆👆 said, and how to load test a battery.
.
In some cases, our Hondas will crank with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, so it will not start.
.
In MANY cases, our Hondas will crank AND START, with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, and then other problems show up.
.
First step with any troubleshooting is to eliminate possible problems and then move to the next.
Even with a new battery, if there are problems, it needs a load test.
.
Most people do not have a battery load tester, but you can use a multimeter.
Hook up your multimeter to the battery.
Key off, what is the voltage?
Key on, what is the voltage?
Turn on EVERYTHING , high beam head light and any other accessory, step on the brake.
Now what is the voltage?
Now with all that still on, crank it over while watching the voltage.
.
This test tells us a few things

• If the voltage never drops, you have a loose wiring problem.
• If the voltage drops below 10 volts, your battery is weak/bad.

If the test shows a weak/bad battery, you may have something drawing power with the key off.
Unhook both negative and positive cables.
Trickle charge overnight, low amps over a longer charge time is the best way to charge a battery.
.
.
Have a good day

 

[Msmdomination]

View attachment 399536

Here are the ground locations you want to check. Be sure to put a wrench on them, don't just do a wiggle check.

Ok. All of the grounds shown above are tight.

Mark in Northern Iowa​

The load test showed the battery dropping voltage but never close to 10.
11.3v was the lowest I got while trying to crank.

On to the other potential culprits. I'll keep y'all updated.

 

[Msmdomination]

I have no spark. I have power to the coils though.

Reading the manual the fail safe for the EOT is almost exactly what happened when driving back from the trail.

However, it wouldn't start 2 weeks before I got stuck and "fixed itself". Also, if I understand the fail safe correctly, the machine should still start and run. It would just start going crazy at 3,000 RPM.

I'm not due for an oil change, but I guess the next step is draining the oil in order to test the EOT. Unless you guys have a better idea. I'll wait to do anything to see your responses.

 

[NorthernJoe]

Ok. All of the grounds shown above are tight.

Mark in Northern Iowa​

The load test showed the battery dropping voltage but never close to 10.
11.3v was the lowest I got while trying to crank.

On to the other potential culprits. I'll keep y'all updated.

I would go back to your grounds! I had similar issues, checked my grounds and they were tight. Someone here told me to go back and remove my grounds, clean all surfaces with sandpaper/wire brush, apply dielectric grease and re-assemble. Guess what, that fixed the problem that even the dealer could not find. I have read where people run a new #6 wire from the - to the engine block

 

[Msmdomination]

good call. I'm going to do that now!!

 

[Msmdomination]

Took ground connections off, sanded them, cleaned them, greased them, but no luck.

The strange thing is I don't have any codes. Fuel pump kicks on, turns over nicely, just won't fire up.

I was REALLY hoping it would be a ground. TBH, the one under the seat was pretty muddy and had the tiniest amount of corosion, so I was hoping that was it.

Is there any chance it could be the PCM or the coils?

 

[NorthernJoe]

Took ground connections off, sanded them, cleaned them, greased them, but no luck.

The strange thing is I don't have any codes. Fuel pump kicks on, turns over nicely, just won't fire up.

I was REALLY hoping it would be a ground. TBH, the one under the seat was pretty muddy and had the tiniest amount of corosion, so I was hoping that was it.

Is there any chance it could be the PCM or the coils?

Sorry to hear, I was hoping it would help you like it did for me. Good luck solving the problem! it will be interesting to see what it is