2020 1000-5 Temperature Gauge Not Registering

TxDoc

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I always let the temp get to three bars to warm up.

I started it, last night while on the trailer, let it run add I got the tie downs unhooked, gate down, etc.

Got in and no temperature registered. Unloaded, backed the trailer into the shop.

Went back to the Pioneer, nothing registering on the temp gauge on the dash. The cooling fan was cycling on and off like normal.

If the CTS has failed, will the fan still cycle? Does the fan have it's own temp sensor?

I was going to try to unplug and plug back in, the CTS. Does anyone have a pic of the location or describe where it's located?

I'm going to check it again, today. With My luck, it'll probably be normal .



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Remington

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If the guage is fubar the rest of the syatem should work. Its only a gauge. Might just be a glitch. As usual, check your grounds and battery voltage.
 
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JenElio

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I always let the temp get to three bars to warm up.

I started it, last night while on the trailer, let it run add I got the tie downs unhooked, gate down, etc.

Got in and no temperature registered. Unloaded, backed the trailer into the shop.

Went back to the Pioneer, nothing registering on the temp gauge on the dash. The cooling fan was cycling on and off like normal.

If the CTS has failed, will the fan still cycle? Does the fan have it's own temp sensor?

I was going to try to unplug and plug back in, the CTS. Does anyone have a pic of the location or describe where it's located?

I'm going to check it again, today. With My luck, it'll probably be normal .



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🤔 3 bars just idling? Seems high to me.....I know it's hot in Texass but it's hot down here too and mine runs at 2 bars even on the trails. 3 bars only a few times up in TN after using 4WD in the mountains for a while.....🤷‍♂️

I'd check that gauge though, if the fan is cycling the system is doing what it's supposed to I guess
 
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TxDoc

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Did you inadvertently switch your dash button to a different setting?
Just askin
😩 😱 OMG Ding, ding, ding We have a winner... Dirtstiffs 1000 🏆 and a BIGGER LOSER...ME !!!

This is like blocking a punt with my face.

I was on the WRONG SCREEN. I got on the correct screen and, what do you know? I can see the temperature indication !!!😡
After 30 minutes idling at 91 degrees.....Two (2) bars

Okay...let me have it. I DESERVE IT.

I don't expect any replies for help, in the future !

<iframe src="Tommy Chong Weed GIF by Paramount Movies - Find & Share on GIPHY" width="480" height="480" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="
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CID

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😩 😱 OMG Ding, ding, ding We have a winner... Dirtstiffs 1000 🏆 and a BIGGER LOSER...ME !!!

This is like blocking a punt with my face.

I was on the WRONG SCREEN. I got on the correct screen and, what do you know? I can see the temperature indication !!!😡
After 30 minutes idling at 91 degrees.....Two (2) bars

Okay...let me have it. I DESERVE IT.

I don't expect any replies for help, in the future !

<iframe src="Tommy Chong Weed GIF by Paramount Movies - Find & Share on GIPHY" width="480" height="480" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="
">via GIPHY</a></p>
Doin' stoopid sh!t is a guy thing, we all do it. :cool: My marriage started falling apart when the ex started laughing at me instead of with me. :(
 
TxDoc

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Why let it idle to warm up in the summer , in Texas? I can understand winter, but summer? What's the benefit?
In Summer, I only wait till I see one bar.

I just worry about putting a load on the transmission while it's not warm and slipping the clutches and needlessly spending money on a new transmission and labor because of impatience. I've got plenty of time. But, I hate to buy something by twice.

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CID

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In Summer, I only wait till I see one bar.

I just worry about putting a load on the transmission while it's not warm and slipping the clutches and needlessly spending money on a new transmission and labor because of impatience. I've got plenty of time. But, I hate to buy something by twice.

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Remember that nothing in the sub trans, differentials, wheel bearings etc., is warming up when the engine is idling during warm up. Unless I was headed from the pits to the starting gate (I don't race, aged out), I always start my rides slowly, letting everything else get up to temp.
 
TxDoc

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Remember that nothing in the sub trans, differentials, wheel bearings etc., is warming up when the engine is idling during warm up. Unless I was headed from the pits to the starting gate (I don't race, aged out), I always start my rides slowly, letting everything else get up to temp.
Thank you CID I didn't realize that about the subtrans. I, mistakingly, thought that the shared oil supply would be warmed up by the engine, and, then be distributed to the transmission and subtrans.

Thanks for "learning me something new."

Just drive slowly after starting up, and no hot rodding or full throttle acceleration. And, when driving slowly, select low range and not lug around in high range. Save high range for when driving at higher speeds like roads, fire roads or open trails.

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Smitty335

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Thank you CID I didn't realize that about the subtrans. I, mistakingly, thought that the shared oil supply would be warmed up by the engine, and, then be distributed to the transmission and subtrans.

Thanks for "learning me something new."

Just drive slowly after starting up, and no hot rodding or full throttle acceleration. And, when driving slowly, select low range and not lug around in high range. Save high range for when driving at higher speeds like roads, fire roads or open trails.

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I back mine out of the shop, reverse is on the high side of the transmission and put it in high D until it warms up, then put in it in low range with no grinding, popping or any other noise. Same all day I can go from Turf to 4WD Lock and no noise.
 
CID

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Thank you CID I didn't realize that about the subtrans. I, mistakingly, thought that the shared oil supply would be warmed up by the engine, and, then be distributed to the transmission and subtrans.

Thanks for "learning me something new."

Just drive slowly after starting up, and no hot rodding or full throttle acceleration. And, when driving slowly, select low range and not lug around in high range. Save high range for when driving at higher speeds like roads, fire roads or open trails.

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1. The sub trans has its own, and separate, oil. This is why we can run oil + moly in the sub trans but NOT in the engine, DCT and wet clutches. The engine and DCT share the same oil even though there's a filter for each.
2. Nothing is spinning in the sub trans until the buggy is moving on both the P1K and Talon. (my source was our very own HondaTech in another thread)
 
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CID

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I back mine out of the shop, reverse is on the high side of the transmission and put it in high D until it warms up, then put in it in low range with no grinding, popping or any other noise. Same all day I can go from Turf to 4WD Lock and no noise.
What Smitty said about starting out in High range when cold - Talons known to be stiff shifting into Low when cold, so I rarely do. I 'try' to wait for everything to warm up before using Low. If I need Low when cold, I'll drive enough in High to get rolling SLOWLY, and shift into Low while rolling. This ensures that the shift dogs can align with their mating slots.

If you're not familiar with how shift dogs work - we aren't shifting our gear teeth, they stay, at least partially, engaged, we're shifting the dogs. Note that the dogs in the DCT (and this video) and the dogs in the sub trans are completely separate. Post 136 speaks to that. The cold gear grinding is happening in the sub trans, not in the DCT 6 speed.

See the first post in this thread for a few pics of shift dogs (note, they're internet photos not P1K pics). Post 136 has shift dog info. fwiw: Many of the posts in this thread also pertain to the P1K.

 
TxDoc

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1. The sub trans has its own, and separate, oil. This is why we can run oil + moly in the sub trans but NOT in the engine, DCT, wet clutches. The engine and DCT share the same oil even though there's a filter for each.
2. Nothing is spinning in the sub trans until the buggy is moving on both the P1K and Talon. (my source was our very own HondaTech in another thread)
CID, Thanks again. Your explanation was very clear and informative and helpful.

I never really fully realized that. I do now.

When in high school... Our trucks had Warn lock in manual hubs, and a floor shifter for high and low range transfer case... no push button transfer cases or Auto transfer cases and if you had a four in the floor, you had a tall shifter for that and the short shifter for the transfer case.

I remember in 2001 with my Honda FourTrax Rubicon 500 with the HondaMatic auto/electric shift transmission and selector for Max HP or Max torque... that was amazing. I had to add a Highlifter kit with a knob you pulled to go from 2WD to 4WD. They later added the electronic button for that.

It was like the difference in a manual typewriter and a word processor.

Similar to my 2004 Yamaha Rhino 660. The electronic ability to shift into 4WD and to lock the front diff never failed.

I absolutely love my Pioneer. Literally, only in super cars do you see paddle shifters and DCT transmissions.

Technology like we have, and maybe take for granted, is just amazing and dependable.

Thanks again. You're an example if why this forum is great and anyone with a Honda SxS is really missing out if they aren't told about it, or don't find it thru a search.

On edit, I was posting as Smitty was posting. Thank you too, Smitty.

And, thank you to everyone who shares their knowledge and expertise and experience, like HondaTech

I'll be perusing and reviewing the info, the links, the videos.

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