P700 2020 pioneer 700-2 dual battery set up

[Casims87]

Can anyone give me some guidance/advice on the best set up for running dual batteries on a 2020 700? Im wanting two light bars, interior lights and winch. Im admittedly semi stupid when it comes to electrical stuff so any help/pics/diagrams would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Admin]

 

[VTbarn1]

I am basically in the same boat. There's tons of postings about it but I found it very confusing. So I've decided to do it in 3 phases. I made the three diagrams below based on what I could piece together. Hopefully I got it right. I'm sure someone will let me know if I didn't.

Barn.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I just did this in a 1000. It’s not that difficult. The true kit is good and has ez to follow instructions. Are you going to install a second fuse box and stinger to control it. A lot of dif ways to do it. You don’t have to have an isolator. You can just drop it in there hook up a hot and a ground and it will charge. Do you want it hot all the time or are you wanting to control it.

 

[NewHere2]

Barn.

View attachment 249337

Small adjustment, on your Disconnect and Stinger, both of those posts/terminals would be "Hot" by your diagram. So both posts/terminals where you are splitting the "Hot" wire should have a + sign. Not a + and - . You've got the concept figured out!

 

[VTbarn1]

Hi NewHere, I appreciate your input. But as usual it confuses me. I don't have any thing labeled as Hot so I'm not sure what line you're referring to. Do you mean the Switched On line that goes to the winch relay and Stinger?

Thanks, Barn

 

[Hondasxs]

This is what he means.
And I'm sure you meant it too.

 

[VTbarn1]

This is what he means.
And I'm sure you meant it too.

View attachment 249460

Thanks! So I have the wiring correct, it was just labeled incorrectly, right?

Barn

 

[Hondasxs]

No.
Winch is not correct and or missing parts.

Winch is to be wired to the contactor. Not direct to the battery. The contactor should be wired direct to the battery.

I assume the rely you have is the contactor?

 

[VTbarn1]

Probably? I guess that I'll have to look up the difference between a relay and contactor. I'm mechanical not electrical experienced.

 

[VTbarn1]

Ps. The winch was installed by the dealer.

 

[Julyfour4]

Hi Barn - Hope the fish are biting! Just curious how your dual battery set up worked out...especially after using it on the ice. I've been studying your diagram (very helpful BTW) and thought about installing the 2nd battery myself. Where did you end up locating your 2nd battery? Guessing you probably had to fabricate a box for it somewhere.

I'm going to start drawing up a Bill of Material for what I'll need to buy. I'm thinking I'll need to pick up extra 6ga wire since the Isolator kit probably does not come with enough for the 700s. Seems like most people go with the True Isolator. How about the fuse box?

I'd love to see pics of your final product if you're willing to share.

 

[VTbarn1]

Hi Barn - Hope the fish are biting! Just curious how your dual battery set up worked out...especially after using it on the ice. I've been studying your diagram (very helpful BTW) and thought about installing the 2nd battery myself. Where did you end up locating your 2nd battery? Guessing you probably had to fabricate a box for it somewhere.

I'm going to start drawing up a Bill of Material for what I'll need to buy. I'm thinking I'll need to pick up extra 6ga wire since the Isolator kit probably does not come with enough for the 700s. Seems like most people go with the True Isolator. How about the fuse box?

I'd love to see pics of your final product if you're willing to share.

I haven't started the actual installation yet. I decided to wait for warmer weather to do the electrical improvements. It's just too darn cold in my garage! Meanwhile I continue to plan and gather materials, like the proper gauges of wire like you mentioned.

At the machines first service I had them put in Honda 5-30 oil to hopefully make it easier to start in cold weather. After using it twice for ice fishing at around 0 to 10 degrees I found that it does start easier and I'm now confident that it will get me back home when I need it to. 👍I will have to switch back to the heavier oil when it warms up.

 

[VTbarn1]

PS I'm planning on sheet metal holder that attaches to the front cross bar and goes down at an angle to a shelf for it to sit on. It's the technique used by others. I want the battery to sit low enough that I can add another metal shelf over it for all the other components to sit in a clean and organized manner. The shelf will need to be easily moved out the way for battery and firewall access. That's what's spinning around in my head anyway!

 

[Julyfour4]

PS I'm planning on sheet metal holder that attaches to the front cross bar and goes down at an angle to a shelf for it to sit on. It's the technique used by others. I want the battery to sit low enough that I can add another metal shelf over it for all the other components to sit in a clean and organized manner. The shelf will need to be easily moved out the way for battery and firewall access. That's what's spinning around in my head anyway!

I just had a discussion about using 5w oil with my brother in-law, so that's really good to hear. I am going to do the same as you when I change my oil next. Starting my machine has been a bear during some of these negative degree stretches.

Your dual battery set up plan sounds like a good one. I'm going to start putting some more thought into it so, like you, I can tackle that project when the weather warms up here in the north east. There seem to be quite a few good threads on here. I'm still confused about the purpose of the Stinger and how to hook that up, but I'll keep researching in hopes to figure that piece out.

 

[Rigit]

For some reason I am still confused about all of these setups that seem to require the tru isolator and a separate relay. Stinger makes a isolator relay all together. At least that is how they advertise it. My question is why wouldn't that one device work? I would like to put a second battery in but I would like to make it as clean an install as possible. The more devices the more wires and the more clutter in a limited amount of space in the 700.

 

[Ckitting]

For some reason I am still confused about all of these setups that seem to require the tru isolator and a separate relay. Stinger makes a isolator relay all together. At least that is how they advertise it. My question is why wouldn't that one device work? I would like to put a second battery in but I would like to make it as clean an install as possible. The more devices the more wires and the more clutter in a limited amount of space in the 700.

View attachment 257189

You can just use the stinger relay but when the relay is activated your batteries are paralleled. It’s the same with the isolator with the exception the isolator will open up when main battery voltage drops below a certain point. I measured around 12.5 volts when it finally opens. If you’re in a situation where you have heavy electrical loads (winching, all lights on, etc) it may pull the primary battery down low enough to cause problems. That’s why I went with the true isolator and the relay

 

[Ckitting]

Easiest way I can explain is:
Primary battery positive to isolator position 1
Isolator position 2 to secondary battery positive
Secondary battery positive to stinger relay position 1
Stinger relay position 2 to top of fuse block
Keyed on power activates stinger relay which in turn powers up fuse block
I’m debating putting in a manual switched source to stinger relay for control w/o key
I ran a direct ground from main battery to secondary battery and then to fuse block.
I picked up all my grounds off the fuse block because I don’t trust frame grounds especially in a rough environment.

 

[Rigit]

You can just use the stinger relay but when the relay is activated your batteries are paralleled. It’s the same with the isolator with the exception the isolator will open up when main battery voltage drops below a certain point. I measured around 12.5 volts when it finally opens. If you’re in a situation where you have heavy electrical loads (winching, all lights on, etc) it may pull the primary battery down low enough to cause problems. That’s why I went with the true isolator and the relay

I guess I am stubborn but Stinger states that it isolates the batteries so your starting battery doesn't get drained while running your accessories. If they were paralleled wouldn't it drain both? I guess that is why they call it an isolator relay? I can't find where it states the point it will start charging each battery though. I am not an electrical expert at all and am truly trying to understand. It appears by your description you are referring to a relay only though. Please excuse my ignorance and I am really not trying to be confrontational at all. I will try and post a drawing of what I was thinking about doing and maybe that would help me understand. There would be a pictorial reference of what was rattling around my head.

This is from Amazon:

• 200 AMP Battery Isolator and Relay
• Prevents primary battery discharge
• Maximum current transfer
• Extends battery life
• Universal 12V Applications

This is from stinger:

• Prevents primary battery discharge
• Maximum current transfer
• Ideal for 2nd audio battery isolation from vehicle systems
• High current relays are the most reliable and efficient way to add secondary batteries to your system
• Compatible with all types of alternators and charging systems
• Water resistant black phenolic plastic
• 100,000 mechanical cycle life
• 200A constant 500A peak current

 

[Rigit]

Well I am hoping someone can straighten out my thought pattern here. This would be what I would foresee as a second battery setup. It would allow me to put everything under the seat on the 700 and only have the ignition activated fuse panel for attaching accessories located in the front. That way the front wouldn't be so full of wires and be so much cleaner. I already have my wench installed and feel like I can find a good ground under the front hood for fuse panel.

 

[Rigit]

I think I am already seeing issues and hope for feedback. I need to power the fuse panel from the battery or maybe from the accessory battery side of the stinger isolator/relay where I have the switched power attached now. If I power it like I have it now it will be limited to the capacity of that circuit I guess I would need some sort of bus bar or something to connect multiple accessories to the switched power when needed? These are the things I continually beat myself up about and not following through with doing this.