P1000 Backup Camera Interference

[TxDoc]

I have a an inline filter, but still have a little interference. Nothing I can't live with.

Just wanted to see if anyone else has the same thing, or similar?

Tried to upload a video file, but got a message the for was too large for the server to process.

Link to stored video:

Temp. Video file - Google Drive

Thanks

 

[Lady01]

I have a an inline filter, but still have a little interference. Nothing I can't live with.

Just wanted to see if anyone else has the same thing, or similar?

Tried to upload a video file, but got a message the for was too large for the server to process.

Link to stored video:

Temp. Video file - Google Drive

Thanks

I have a bit of static on my front and rear cameras as well. I figured it was due to a less than adequate connections. I am running my cameras off the 2nd battery. mine is not quite as bad as the video you are showing but I still have static.

 

[bumperm]

There are but two ways for "noise" to show on your monitor, entering via the wiring, or being received as RFI (radio frequency interference). Some monitors receive the video signal via a wireless link and some via wire.

Is the noise still there when the engine is off? If the noise goes away with engine off, that most likely means it's coming from the spark plug leads. That would most likely be the case if the rear view system is transmitting video to the monitor via wireless. If the video goes to the monitor via wiring, then you might consider shielding the existing wire or replacing the wire in the unlikely event it's not adequately shielded (most video / or combined video/audio, power) wiring would have the video signal wire shielded. If it has shielding, you might try adding a ferrite filter the wire to see if that helps. I don't know if Honda is using shielded spark plug wiring . . . but adding a copper braided shield (grounded at one end only) would doubtless help if that is the source.

 

[TxDoc]

I have a bit of static on my front and rear cameras as well. I figured it was due to a less than adequate connections. I am running my cameras off the 2nd battery. mine is not quite as bad as the video you are showing but I still have static.

Thanks Lady 01, mine is powered off the auxiliary battery as well. Appreciate the reply.

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[TxDoc]

There are but two ways for "noise" to show on your monitor, entering via the wiring, or being received as RFI (radio frequency interference). Some monitors receive the video signal via a wireless link and some via wire.

Is the noise still there when the engine is off? If the noise goes away with engine off, that most likely means it's coming from the spark plug leads. That would most likely be the case if the rear view system is transmitting video to the monitor via wireless. If the video goes to the monitor via wiring, then you might consider shielding the existing wire or replacing the wire in the unlikely event it's not adequately shielded (most video / or combined video/audio, power) wiring would have the video signal wire shielded. If it has shielding, you might try adding a ferrite filter the wire to see if that helps. I don't know if Honda is using shielded spark plug wiring . . . but adding a copper braided shield (grounded at one end only) would doubtless help if that is the source.

Thank you, bumperm.

Mine is hard wired from the camera to the rear, no wireless transmission.

With the engine off, it's a crystal clear picture.

I've got an inline filter and get a little interference with the engine on.

I may have to try your latter fix and see if that solves it completely.

Thank you for the help

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[bumperm]

If you have a ferrite filter (that's the kind made of dark gray sintered iron that the wire passes through, you can put on an additional ferrite or, if the ferrite is "clip on" style, loop the wire around and back through a second or third time. You gain filtering for each time the wire passes through the ferrite bead hole. Then of course there's the option of shielding the high voltage part of the plug wires.

 

[TxDoc]

If you have a ferrite filter (that's the kind made of dark gray sintered iron that the wire passes through, you can put on an additional ferrite or, if the ferrite is "clip on" style, loop the wire around and back through a second or third time. You gain filtering for each time the wire passes through the ferrite bead hole. Then of course there's the option of shielding the high voltage part of the plug wires.

This is what I have.

PAC CSS-12 Noise Reduction 12 Amp Power Lead Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEDZBA?tag=sxsweb24-20

I may need to get a ferrite clip on magnet. I think I may have some laying around that came with computers or printers in the past.

Where is the best placement going to be for the barrel-shaped magnet.

And, I have to ask... Would two in different locations be better? Sometimes it's hard to avoid the "Anything worth doing, is worth running in the ground" theory

RF Choke 31500 Ferrite Filter Core Material 31 Mix ID 1/2" 13mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDACVOM?tag=sxsweb24-20

VS

Colorsheng 12 Pcs Magnetic Ferrite Cores EMI RFI Noise Filter Clip for 13mm Diameter-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYB9PN6?tag=sxsweb24-20

I miss Radio Shack and being able to just run in there and get one thing that I needed

 

[bumperm]

The ferrite (isn't a magnet BTW ) should be mounted on the wiring as close to the device being protected (the monitor in this case) as is reasonably possible. It works by increasing the inductance of the wire and acts like a low-pass filter to suppress high frequency signals and noise). Run a test before going to much trouble mounting stuff. Just clip the ferrite over the wire and see if the noise on the screen is improved. If it is better, then try looping the wire through the ferrite twice if you have enough wiring slack, or put a second ferrite on the wire, again, as close to the monitor as possible. There is no benefit in placing ferrites at a distance from the device being protected, as the downstream wiring can still behave as an antenna to pick up the noise - thus the advice to place the ferrite/s close to the device being affected by noise.

The power lead filter is probably a "pi" filter that consists of a capacitor across the input, a ferrite in line, and a capacitor across the output. The function is to suppress noise on the power line.

A way to check to see if the power line needs filtering, is to temporarily connect a 12 volt battery to the monitor with fairly short leads (not the vehicles power), see if the problem goes away. If it does, the noise is coming in on the vehicle power wiring as not connected.

 

[TxDoc]

Bumperm, thank you for all the time, information and effort with this.

I'll report back later in the week.

I can only use right hand due to a stroke.

I'll be back with you, though.

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[bumperm]

Bumperm, thank you for all the time, information and effort with this.

I'll report back later in the week.

I can only use right hand due to a stroke.

I'll be back with you, though.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

This getting old business ain't for whimps, is it? Got the Moderna vaccine, got myocarditis within the month (this was two years ago now). Just got a pacemaker a month ago, so have to take it easy (easy is about all I can do anyway - no stamina. One more week and I can try riding my bicycle and maybe get some exercise going.

Hope all goes as good as can be on your stroke recovery.

 

[bumperm]

I have a bit of static on my front and rear cameras as well. I figured it was due to a less than adequate connections. I am running my cameras off the 2nd battery. mine is not quite as bad as the video you are showing but I still have static.

Is the "static" there with ignition off or on, and with engine running or not?

 

[TxDoc]

Sorry, I just saw this. All accessories are keyed on.

My backup camera is triggered when I press my rear 20 inch lightbar. I have it like that because I want a lot of light behind me at night and in the daytime I want people to see the light, especially children, and notice something is coming at them.

When the key is turned on and the rear lightbar is switched on and the camera is activated....the picture is crystal clear. Interference on shows up with the engine is running.

 

[DRZRon1]

my backup camera system isn't so complicated

wired camera

on a rocker switch - I leave it on all the time

better than a mirror - works fine

 

[rmking34]

Sorry, I just saw this. All accessories are keyed on.

My backup camera is triggered when I press my rear 20 inch lightbar. I have it like that because I want a lot of light behind me at night and in the daytime I want people to see the light, especially children, and notice something is coming at them.

When the key is turned on and the rear lightbar is switched on and the camera is activated....the picture is crystal clear. Interference on shows up with the engine is running.

What backup camera system are you using?

 

[DRZRon1]

its a super high end backup camera system made by the best money can buy - its a Yakry!!! (amazon blue light special)

wired it up and zippo interference, super clear, night mode, etc. - best $50 I spent

cant hide money

 

[TxDoc]

iBeam, Vehicle Safety Systems |

ibeamusa.com

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[TxDoc]

its a super high end backup camera system made by the best money can buy - its a Yakry!!! (amazon blue light special)

wired it up and zippo interference, super clear, night mode, etc. - best $50 I spent

cant hide money

View attachment 399510 View attachment 399511 View attachment 399512

Thank you, I'll look at it DRZRon1. This one was around $300

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[DRZRon1]

Thank you, I'll look at it DRZRon1. This one was around $300

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wow - a home security system for a backup camera - now thats fu cant hide money - !!!!!

 

[bumperm]

Sorry, I just saw this. All accessories are keyed on.

My backup camera is triggered when I press my rear 20 inch lightbar. I have it like that because I want a lot of light behind me at night and in the daytime I want people to see the light, especially children, and notice something is coming at them.

When the key is turned on and the rear lightbar is switched on and the camera is activated....the picture is crystal clear. Interference on shows up with the engine is running.

Ok, that means it's likely the interference is caused by ignition noise, RFI (radio frequency interference). First step, as previously mentioned, is to install ferrites on the wiring connected to both camera and monitor.

 

[Jas sxs]

I have a bit of static on my front and rear cameras as well. I figured it was due to a less than adequate connections. I am running my cameras off the 2nd battery. mine is not quite as bad as the video you are showing but I still have static.