P1000 Beefing up A-arm mounts

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Superthrill

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This is an informative thread with a lot of nice options for beefing up mounts and and good feedback on bushings. Next thing the OP is going to want is instructions to beef up the oil pan cross members
While your at it, go ahead and throw up the crossmember info.
 
ToddACimer

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While your at it, go ahead and throw up the crossmember info.

I'm doing mine in 2 weeks. I bought these formed 48" pieces of 3/16" to lay under my oil pan crossmembers.
104078 1c28fd34530d0d10bb2417e1e9ed46c3
 
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joeymt33

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I’m with ya

I can see the different length in the tubes. you want the tube to be long enough to tighten against the inside of the mounting tabs. That’s what will prevent it from enlarging the hole. I think that’s the difference with CATVOS. The bolt squeezes the mounting tabs onto the tube so that it should not move.

I’ve noticed that the tubes that came with CATVOS are a tight fit when installing them. It’s not the bushing that is being tightened up against, it is the metal sleeve.
 
GlockMeister

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I can see the different length in the tubes. you want the tube to be long enough to tighten against the inside of the mounting tabs. That’s what will prevent it from enlarging the hole. I think that’s the difference with CATVOS. The bolt squeezes the mounting tabs onto the tube so that it should not move.

I’ve noticed that the tubes that came with CATVOS are a tight fit when installing them. It’s not the bushing that is being tightened up against, it is the metal sleeve.
Maybe thats why mine are still good...i put the mongoloid strength on it.
 
Rambo

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I can see the different length in the tubes. you want the tube to be long enough to tighten against the inside of the mounting tabs. That’s what will prevent it from enlarging the hole. I think that’s the difference with CATVOS. The bolt squeezes the mounting tabs onto the tube so that it should not move.

I’ve noticed that the tubes that came with CATVOS are a tight fit when installing them. It’s not the bushing that is being tightened up against, it is the metal sleeve.
Yeah that picture I posted was a bad example. I just used it to show JTW what I was calling the pivot tubes. That was actually one of the first things I checked out. Like you said making sure that tube was long enough to tighten against the A-arm mounts, and it was. SATV is the longer one on the left and OEM on the right. I think the i.d. of the SATV pivot tube is partially worn out and thats why I ordered a new bushing kit. Sorry about not being more clear on that, and thanks for looking out!
 
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I can see the different length in the tubes. you want the tube to be long enough to tighten against the inside of the mounting tabs. That’s what will prevent it from enlarging the hole. I think that’s the difference with CATVOS. The bolt squeezes the mounting tabs onto the tube so that it should not move.

I’ve noticed that the tubes that came with CATVOS are a tight fit when installing them. It’s not the bushing that is being tightened up against, it is the metal sleeve.
I’m gunna have to put mine on the rack and give it a good looking over.
 
Ragnar406

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I was thinking the same... I don’t know what the torque specs are on that bolt... but I’m quite sure I over do it!
35 or 45 lb I think - I know I looked it up when I last Messed with them - I want to say 35 for the bottom and 45 for the top

Just checked 47 for the bottom and 32 for the top
 
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joeymt33

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Use a grade 12.9 bolt and then give it all you can. I put two wrenches together and pull with about all I got.

Snuff sent me the info for the stronger bolt.

Feeb31ff18106a081ef3192c68273404
 
Rambo

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Use a grade 12.9 bolt and then give it all you can. I put two wrenches together and pull with about all I got.

Snuff sent me the info for the stronger bolt.

View attachment 105906
I tried like hell to find a high strength flanged bolt to replace with, the first time I addressed this. I had no luck with that. I ended up with these through Fastenal. Now I realized the bolt Snuff is using is stronger but the allen head steered me away. I just feel like you can put more torque on a hex head. (even though the specs say 42lbs. on the upper)
Another note to keep in mind for those of us that are not using the OEM flanged bolts and using washers, that can change the torque setting. In Snuffs setup no washers needed and the weld washers I ordered I don't plan to use any this time around.
Still after what Snuff did to correct his which was top notch and way better than what I had done, there's still a weak link somewhere.
This time around I'm leaving no room for doubt.
* New bushing kit from SATV
* New high strength flanged nut (with red lock tight)
* New 10.9 high strength bolt
* New chrome molly weld washers made just for an application like this
* Drilling a hole in the upper pivot tube like others have done.
* Lots of greese
Also want to note that I have some slop in the steering rack. I'm wondering if this play could be related to the issue I'm having with the upper A-arms. Joey posted up a great write up on fixing this. So I ordered the bushing and lock washer to fix this too.(like 20 bucks)
If I have problems in the near future after this fix, I'm taking it to SATV and let them tell me what the problem is!!!!

Screenshot 20190202 110241 Chrome
 
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joeymt33

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I tried like hell to find a high strength flanged bolt to replace with, the first time I addressed this. I had no luck with that. I ended up with these through Fastenal. Now I realized the bolt Snuff is using is stronger but the allen head steered me away. I just feel like you can put more torque on a hex head. (even though the specs say 42lbs. on the upper)
Another note to keep in mind for those of us that are not using the OEM flanged bolts and using washers, that can change the torque setting. In Snuffs setup no washers needed and the weld washers I ordered I don't plan to use any this time around.
Still after what Snuff did to correct his which was top notch and way better than what I had done, there's still a weak link somewhere.
This time around I'm leaving no room for doubt.
* New bushing kit from SATV
* New high strength flanged nut (with red lock tight)
* New 10.9 high strength bolt
* New chrome molly weld washers made just for an application like this
* Drilling a hole in the upper pivot tube like others have done.
* Lots of greese
Also want to note that I have some slop in the steering rack. I'm wondering if this play could be related to the issue I'm having with the upper A-arms. Joey posted up a great write up on fixing this. So I ordered the bushing and lock washer to fix this too.(like 20 bucks)
If I have problems in the near future after this fix, I'm taking it to SATV and let them tell me what the problem is!!!!

View attachment 105923

You can still use the grade 12.9 Bolt. I only turn the nut and that way I’m not trying to twist the whole bolt. It’s seem to tighten up easier that way.

There is an adjustment on the steering rack to adjust the gear mesh. It’s a little bit more difficult than replacing the bushings but it can be done from inside the cab or under the vehicle. I think it’s in the same write up that you mentioned above.
 
snuffnwhisky

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Ohanacreek where did you source the bolt from. I found it on Fastenals site but the where really proud of it!
mcmaster.com has pretty much whatever you want.
 
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