Your isolator is nothing but a simple solenoid. Key on, both batteries are tied together. Key off, batteries are separated. Since you left the key on, both batteries died. To do what you are thinking, you want a voltage sensing isolator that will isolate batteries by voltage. This is what I used. Amazon.com: Fister Dual Battery Isolator Kit,Dual Battery Isolator Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) Wiring Kit for Ship, Yacht, Off-Road Vehicle, RV: Sports & Outdoors
B
The way I understand that the Tru isolator works is: Key on , it will tie both batteries together until the combined voltage of both batteries drops below a set threshold, it will open up. It will not reconnect until it senses the alternator charging up the batteries. Did you confirm your secondary battery was dead? Did you try and jumper across the isolator and see if it would start?
P
Well thanks anyway!!! I appreciate your efforts. I’m surely no expert... in fact , I’m a super rookie in electrics. I spent a lot of time and study to create this distribution of power.
Oh well.....
Maybe the simple draw from the main battery (ACC harness from Cigarette Lighter) to hold the Stinger relay open.... draws down the main battery. No accessories were on. The Isolator did not protect my starting battery.
Based on that, the way it’s wired, (study my simple drawing).... I think an Isolater and a Stinger are a WASTE OF MONEY.
They don’t protect my starting battery, whether I leave the key on ....or all my LEDS ON that are wired to the second battery. THAT’s what I bought them for.
Thx for all the efforts!!!
I love this forum!!!!
TripleB
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Lifetime Member
What you're thinking about the isolator is wrong. I wish I wash smart enough to put it in words to explain it to u. There is 1 guy on here that knows everything about everything but he's too busy arguing his opinions on all the other threads.
TripleB
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Lifetime Member
I know if u wanna run your fuse panel with key on, the machine needs to be running. What your trying to do, u need a rocker switch to turn your fuse panel on with the key off or key on. I have the isolator and relay(stinger) like u do. I have a 3 position rocker that is key on, all off and key off power.
P
That sounds like a good idea. I have a spot for another rocker.. On my diagram, how would you wire it??
The reason I put green LEDS on the machine, key-on panel, was because I want to night hunt coyotes by turning on the key and green LEDs without the engine running. I just assumed that I could use all the power in the second battery without affecting my starting battery becauseI had the ISOLATOR to protect me.
I guess that’s not it’s intent.
Assuming I never leave the key on again, like I did that ran down both batteries, or monitor my battery consumption.... I should be OK???
Not what I hoped for... but OK! 👍👍🤣
I wanted it idiot proof for my starting battery so I did not have to walk back to camp with a bunch of pissed off coyotes😂😂😂
Thx
TripleB
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Lifetime Member
If you get a 3 position rocker, run your key on power to #4 instead of the stinger. #6 to your auxiliary battery to trigger your stinger with key off. #5 to your stinger. That's how I have mine. My stinger started failing so I've got a different relay now.
P
Thx sir
I see it now.
Are you saying I just need to never leave key on for extended time like most people do.
I did not leave it on intentionally.
Otherwise.... it is wired normally???
I just just misunderstood the Isolator.
I see that main key on power was the culprit.... same as everyone’s’.
thx again
Are you saying most people leave the key turned on with the engine off for extended time periods?
P
No no no
Most people never leave it on for extended time.
I wanted key on accessories just like I have it.
I ACCIDENTALLY left it on after testing a switch.... and both batteries died.
I now understand why... the ECM and relays from starter battery drew it down.
Being a rookie, I thought somehow the Isolator would have prevented that. I got it now......
THANK TO ALL FOR HELPING ME.
If I decide to use my green LEDS without key on.... I’ll simply switch them over to the NON KEYED fuse panel already installed on the board where I have a pair of USBs for key off phone charging.
THANKS AGAIN
I agree, unless you have changed the way the ignition, fuel pump, PCU, dash, lights, etc. get their power, you will drain the main battery with the key on. There is no way around this unless you rewire the factory system to the second battery.
That is why I use a RAP (Retained Accessory Power) module triggered by the key and a manual on/off switch, wire every accessory to the second battery and NEVER leave my ignition switch on unless the engine is running. RAP stays on for 15 minutes (programmable to anything I want) and can be reset endlessly with the manual switch. Kinda like a car but with a second battery.
I can leave all my crap on and it will automatically turn off in 15 minutes if I forget. It can drain the second battery and never touch my main battery. Only thing that doesn't work with the key off are the headlights, dash and OEM power outlet.
B
Yeah, the attachment I posted shows the exact wiring you are looking for. That is how mine is wired. I am about positive that if you left your key on and had no accessories running on your secondary battery, it was NOT dead as well. The Isolator will seperate the batteries when the voltage drops below 12.9 volts for 10 seconds while not running. They will not reconnect until the isolator senses voltage above 12.9 for 10 seconds. So if you did your scenario of leaving your key on, you could simply jumper across your isolator (essentially removing it) and your machine will start. The switch to make your secondary battery either key on power or manual on power is the way to wire any utv in my opinion.
P
PaulF
Thx for reply.
You RAP is WAY ABOVE my rookie status.
Sounds ideal. Much study ahead before I’ll tackle that.
For now, I’m going keep my keys in my pocket so I can’t leave the key on!!!!!
👍👍👍
My RAP is homebrew. I couldn't find one for a UTV so I had to make it myself so you probably won't find one anywhere. I had to do it, at my age I forget things so everything needs to be automatic for me
Keys in pocket approach sound like a winner to me.
P
At 69..... I can relate. That’s also why I attempted to make it age and bulletproof .My RAP is homebrew. I couldn't find one for a UTV so I had to make it myself so you probably won't find one anywhere. I had to do it, at my age I forget things so everything needs to be automatic for me
Keys in pocket approach sound like a winner to me.
Thx👍
P
Thanks again TripleB
As u have surmised by now, I will just keep my keys in my pocket. I really don’t need a key off ability. If so I will wire directly.
I appreciate your awesome switch knowledge . I did a screenshot so I can reference it in the future.
Thx again
Why are you faulting the isolator? Seems to me the way you are wired that at key on the stinger closes and energizes your 2nd battery stuff.
Isolator is just a voltage sensing relay. It closes at a certain rising voltage. So the amps from your alternator go into the primary battery until the battery reaches the trigger voltage, then the isolator closes and allows amps to flow to the 2nd battery. The isolator should remain open if your engine is not running.
As best I can tell some accessory on the 2nd battery drained it through the closed stinger. The stinger was closed because it was energized by the wire from the cigarette lighter at key on.
Another possibility is that you inadvertently bridged a couple of positives on an accessory when you wired the new accessories into your new fuse block. Probably a lesser possibility. Could easily tell with a voltmeter. With everything off, after resting for 30 min or so, your two batteries should read different voltages. If they are the same the positives are bridged.
Isolator is just a voltage sensing relay. It closes at a certain rising voltage. So the amps from your alternator go into the primary battery until the battery reaches the trigger voltage, then the isolator closes and allows amps to flow to the 2nd battery. The isolator should remain open if your engine is not running.
As best I can tell some accessory on the 2nd battery drained it through the closed stinger. The stinger was closed because it was energized by the wire from the cigarette lighter at key on.
Another possibility is that you inadvertently bridged a couple of positives on an accessory when you wired the new accessories into your new fuse block. Probably a lesser possibility. Could easily tell with a voltmeter. With everything off, after resting for 30 min or so, your two batteries should read different voltages. If they are the same the positives are bridged.
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P
Thx JiminAZ for reply
You’re right, I first blamed the Isolator letting BOTH my batteries run down after leaving my key on.
Through this thread, I realize that the key on position activates the entire wiring system on the main battery and over night it ran down BOTH batteries because they are bridged together and the Isolator remain closed to complete the circuit. Makes sense to me even thought I wish it was not that way.
The only accessory you mentioned on the hot key-off distribution panel is the power to my lower switch plate that is separately switched. It has 4 USBs and another cigarette lighter. That switch was off.
Thx again for you time to reply.
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